Anybody know the bushing # for the center bellcrank bracket ?
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Center Bellcrank Bushings/bearings
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Do you have bushings or bearings? It depends on what year your car is.
Often, when the bushing or bearing is bad, the center shaft is grooved as well and must be replaced.
The major Studebaker vendors have a repair kit in stock that includes a new shaft and the bearings or bushings, depending on the year of the car.
If you haven't removed the whole bell crank assembly from the car yet, there is a grease fitting that goes through a hole in the back of the frame crossmember and into the body of the bellcrank assembly. It's hard to see and you have to look closely. It will come out with a quarter inch six point socket. If you don't take it out, the bellcrank housing will not come off the frame.
If the grease fitting were easier to see, maybe it might have gotten greased more often over the years and these bellcranks would not have worn out so quickly.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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I suppose the center bell crank could get stiff and bind if it goes completely dry, or on the needle bearing type if the needles begin to crumble. However, I have seen them so worn that they were flopping around and so loose that a little "binding" would be welcome. The possibility of these grease fittings being neglected is another reason to use your manual, get familiar with your car, and do the job yourself.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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The full scenario: I have 3 center assys. One is 1960 and I guess might have the bearings ? The others are 62' wagon and 63' Cruiser with bushings. The bellcranks on the 62' and 63' are very easily moved up and down while installed on the car(s). The 60' is removed from the car and sitting in my shed...I can't recall the sloppiness of it. I guess I should open them up and see the condition of the shafts ??
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Where was it that there was a 'how to' section aboult rebuilding those, and adding a third bushing or bearing?
Johnstone's site? DD book?
I don't remember exactly, but did one that way once.
JeffHTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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I looked for the Bushing #'s but no luck. Here are the numbers on the bearings and the how-to from Ray Fichthorn
SUSP - 1.Bellcrank(center pin) needle bearings- Torrington-B161, poorer substitute-Y-1612.
64 GT Hawk (K7)
1970 Avanti (R3)
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Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View PostWhere was it that there was a 'how to' section aboult rebuilding those, and adding a third bushing or bearing?
Johnstone's site? DD book?
I don't remember exactly, but did one that way once.
Jeff
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I stock these 1554379 bushings at $10.00 each.
Free first class mail shipping.
Robert Kapteyn
studebaker@mac.com
815 722 7262
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Simply replacing the $10 bushings, available above, will likely last most Studes into the next century. I have always replaced the bushings with the bearing & pivot shaft kit, and have never had to replace the same one twice.
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Originally posted by Alan View PostThe B-1616 is a longer bearing. I use those top and bottom but in the middle I use a B-1612OH, so it is supported all the way.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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