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Center Bellcrank Bushings/bearings

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  • Steering: Center Bellcrank Bushings/bearings

    Anybody know the bushing # for the center bellcrank bracket ?

  • #2
    Do you have bushings or bearings? It depends on what year your car is.

    Often, when the bushing or bearing is bad, the center shaft is grooved as well and must be replaced.

    The major Studebaker vendors have a repair kit in stock that includes a new shaft and the bearings or bushings, depending on the year of the car.

    If you haven't removed the whole bell crank assembly from the car yet, there is a grease fitting that goes through a hole in the back of the frame crossmember and into the body of the bellcrank assembly. It's hard to see and you have to look closely. It will come out with a quarter inch six point socket. If you don't take it out, the bellcrank housing will not come off the frame.

    If the grease fitting were easier to see, maybe it might have gotten greased more often over the years and these bellcranks would not have worn out so quickly.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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    • #3
      I suppose the center bell crank could get stiff and bind if it goes completely dry, or on the needle bearing type if the needles begin to crumble. However, I have seen them so worn that they were flopping around and so loose that a little "binding" would be welcome. The possibility of these grease fittings being neglected is another reason to use your manual, get familiar with your car, and do the job yourself.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

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      • #4
        The full scenario: I have 3 center assys. One is 1960 and I guess might have the bearings ? The others are 62' wagon and 63' Cruiser with bushings. The bellcranks on the 62' and 63' are very easily moved up and down while installed on the car(s). The 60' is removed from the car and sitting in my shed...I can't recall the sloppiness of it. I guess I should open them up and see the condition of the shafts ??

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        • #5
          Where was it that there was a 'how to' section aboult rebuilding those, and adding a third bushing or bearing?
          Johnstone's site? DD book?
          I don't remember exactly, but did one that way once.
          Jeff
          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

          Jeff


          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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          • #6
            Johnstone's site. But it has been a few years since I looked into it.

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            • #7
              I looked for the Bushing #'s but no luck. Here are the numbers on the bearings and the how-to from Ray Fichthorn
              SUSP - 1.Bellcrank(center pin) needle bearings- Torrington-B161, poorer substitute-Y-1612.

              64 GT Hawk (K7)
              1970 Avanti (R3)

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              • #8
                The B-1616 is a longer bearing. I use those top and bottom but in the middle I use a B-1612OH, so it is supported all the way.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                  Where was it that there was a 'how to' section aboult rebuilding those, and adding a third bushing or bearing?
                  Johnstone's site? DD book?
                  I don't remember exactly, but did one that way once.
                  Jeff
                  Try this http://www.raylinrestoration.com/Tec...PinRebuild.htm

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                  • #10
                    The Studebaker part number for the bushing is 1554379.
                    Dan Peterson
                    Montpelier, VT
                    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
                    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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                    • #11
                      I stock these 1554379 bushings at $10.00 each.
                      Free first class mail shipping.
                      Robert Kapteyn
                      studebaker@mac.com
                      815 722 7262

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                      • #12
                        Simply replacing the $10 bushings, available above, will likely last most Studes into the next century. I have always replaced the bushings with the bearing & pivot shaft kit, and have never had to replace the same one twice.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Alan View Post
                          The B-1616 is a longer bearing. I use those top and bottom but in the middle I use a B-1612OH, so it is supported all the way.
                          When you do this, is there a path for the grease to get to all of the bushings?
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                          • #14
                            I grease up all 3 bearings by hand first the B-1212OH is an oil hole. For sure you are going to get grease to the center but you will have to hit the lever a few times to get the upper and lower.

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