Ignition: from 6-volt pos. ground to 12-volt neg. ground & Mopar electronic ignition...

[Noxnabaker]

Here it is:

Does anyone out there have Mopar 12-volt negative ground AND their electronic ignition (since -73) in a Studebaker that used to be 6-volt positive ground?

If so I would be mighty happy to know how it's connected! ...& I mean MIGHTY HAPPY ! ! !

[dynolou2]

I do have a diagram, wiring for a Hudson that was 6 volt pos. ground should be simular. I am assuming that you got all the chrysler wiring from the distributor to the box and to voltage reducer. I'm on my way to work but will dig up my info after work. Lou Cote

[Noxnabaker]

"voltage reducer"??? ...no I aint got that, I'm changing the whole car to 12-volt: gauche's, lights & all.

I've got the Mopar-stuff such as (engine, gearbox & rear axle) starter & electronic ignition module (& alternator).
& that means that 2 wires comes from the enginebay; one from the coil via the resistor & one from the module & it would be real interesting to know how to hook them up as I've been on it trying for about 2 weex now...

[toymobile]

Why not wire a 1975 to 1979 GM control module???? The 2 wires from the dist pickup to the 2 small conectors on the CM, key hot to the largest of the other 2 and key hot to + coil and the last wire goes to - side of coil, CM must be bolted down for groung, Turn key and ENJOY,

Johnny

[dynolou2]

As Toymobile said from the plugin at the control module, you should have 4 wires going into it . One pair with a combined plug go to the distributor, brown & green/yellow combination . The black to negative side of coil, the remaining wire should go to the key on [hot ] side of the ignition switch. Hope this helps!1 Lou Cote

[Noxnabaker]

So the remaining wire, meaning the one connected to coils plus-side should go to the plus on the key-switch that's getting + from the battery all the time?

[gordr]

No. Follow the link I put in the other thread. Chrysler Corp. had 4-in and 5-pin ignition modules, and one version used a single ballast resistor, and the other a dual. Diagrams for both are at the link.

The normal "run" current feed to the coil/module is through the ballast resistor. The added boost for cranking (used to compensate for system voltage being pulled down by the heavy current draw of the starter cranking a cold engine) is supplied by either a "momentary hot" terminal on the ignition switch, energized only when cranking, or by a wire coming from a similar momentary hot terminal on the crank relay, when used.

Like I suggested before, a standard Bosch cube relay could be set up so that its coil will be energized by the crank circuit on the existing ignition switch, and its contacts used to momentarily connect the coil (+) terminal to a full 12 volt supply.

[Noxnabaker]

Yes, I DO have the 4-pin module, & I've bookmarked your link to be able to look at it anytime.

BUT... didn't you write that the remaining wire should go to the "HOT" side (terminal?) on the ignition switch?
As I've been led to understand that's the "+" meaning the one that's connected to the plus-side on the battery.

But you must've meant the "hot" terminal when the ignition is turned ON / the "IGN" terminal on the switch, right?

Anyway, I'm gonna take a few days of from this now & do some ship-work instead!