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  • Paint: What compound to use?

    Here is a picture of my 66 Cruiser just to give an idea of the state of the paint:
    Click image for larger version

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    There is no shine to it at all and I want to rent a buffer and buff it out. I need to know which compound is best to use with a machine buffer. I already know I have to be careful and use lots of water so the paint doesn't get burned, but I need to know which brand or type of compound to look for. Thanks!
    "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

  • #2
    To: Scott,---Wash the car and get it as clean as possible, then get some orange 'paste type' compound (such as Macaleers) and start buffing out the paint using a buffer-polisher (never a grinder--too much RPM).
    Keep the machine away from the edges because it's very easy to 'burn an edge'. And be aware this Studebaker has probably been buffed a few times before so the paint MAY already be quite 'thin'. BEWARE ALSO
    OF ANY RADIO ANTENNAS on Your car....very nasty when a buffer snags one of those. Wash the compound off the car after buffing, and follow with your favorite car wax. Good luck!

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    • #3
      Thanks! Should I take the door handles and any easy trim off? My antenna is already shot, but I'll keep that in mind.
      "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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      • #4
        A trick I always used when teaching newbies to use a buffer is to use masking tape on the crown lines and other easy to burn through areas. Then hand rub the taped spots. 3M makes several good grades of rubbing compounds. Don't load the buffer wheel to heavily so that it's slinging compound everywhere and clean it often. They sell buffer cleaners, but most use an old screwdriver. Any wax with a cleaner in it has a compound in it that deteriorates and gets finer as it's used, so you might try one of those. There is a 3M product that replaced Liquid Ebony called Perfect It which is a very good fine glazing compound and hard to burn paint with. BTW, it's also great for glass cleaning.
        Last edited by jlmccuan; 11-21-2012, 04:17 PM.
        Jim
        Often in error, never in doubt
        http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

        ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

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        • #5
          To: Scott,---Definitely remove 'easy off' trim items....as long as by doing this a new 'snag' situation (like with an antenna) isn't created.

          WARNING!!!!!!...jlmccuan's above thoughts are all fine.....but be EXTREMELY careful if You use a screwdriver or other pointed object to clean off that buffing wheel...if the screwdriver 'catches'..well...
          I probably don't have to say any more about that!

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          • #6
            I don't think I cold figure out how to clean a wheel with a screwdriver anyway. I've looked at some videos on Youtube and it seems most of them don't use any water when buffing. So what to do? I'll probably try the 3M compound and polishing stuff.

            Do I really want to use a heavy duty buffer with the handle that sticks out the side or is the lighter duty kind ok (the ones that sort of have a circular or round type handle directly above the unit)?
            "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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            • #7
              The car had a front end collision at one time and I don't think all of the paint is original. In fact none of it might be. There is an odd spot on the drip rail where 3 inches of a shinier paint is visible. With my fingernail I can tell that there is a lip up on either end of the spot. If it was repainted that was a BIG mistake. Or they masked it off on purpose (but why the heck???).
              "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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              • #8
                As stated, wash and clean up first! Use a clay bar with some window cleaner, that will remove any "grit" that has attached itself to the finish. Also as Jim McCuan stated, use masking tape over peaks, also run it down all the door, hood, and trunk gaps, that will keep most of the compound out of those hard to clean areas.
                Why rent a buffer? you'll probably need one again sometime! Buy a couple of good pads, I have used the 2 sided ones, but, there is the "Ice" system out, that starts with a heavy compound, then a finer one, then a glaze. Go SLOW, and hang on to the buffer tight! it CAN get away from you very easy!
                Also, DO NOT use a body grinder! a buffer spins about 2400 rpm, a body grinder about 4800 rpm! You wiill "burn" the paint with a grinder.

                Jim
                "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                their Memorials!

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                • #9
                  Scott,
                  there is a great article in the NOvember Popular Hot Rodding about restoring an old, tired paint job. I followed the instructions and the results were quite surprising. If I could find my post from Oct 29, I would include the link.

                  Regardless, you can get the article on the PHR website. My car sat in a Wisconsin barn from 77 until Spring 10 - uncovered for much of it. The paint was chalky, dull, and looked almost as if the dust was ground in. I followed the PHR steps and was amazed.

                  The most productive part of the process is using the clay bar. It was responsible for about 80 percent of the refreshing of the paint on my car.

                  I cannot say enough good things about the PHR article.
                  sigpic 62 Hawk - Wisconsin barn find

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                  • #10
                    Scott,----One more thing...You asked about a 'heavy buffer'.....old timers will probably tell You that a 'heavy buffer' is actually less work, as the weight of the machine replaces the force that
                    You must exert to make a lighter machine effective. Some folks can't believe the weight of the old 'SIOUX' buffer I use for the tough jobs!
                    Last edited by SN-60; 11-21-2012, 08:03 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the great information. I really appreciate it! I may not get to it right away, but soon. I don't know anything about clay bars, but I've heard of them. I'll try to find that PHR article.
                      "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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                      • #12
                        I had never heard of it either. I'm now a convert. Article link is below.
                        My wife will actually get in it now.

                        If you want a before and after using the PHR steps, compare the photo below to this month's Rock Auto E- Newsletter (my Hawk is the featured car before the refreshing)
                        Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving

                        sigpic 62 Hawk - Wisconsin barn find

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                        • #13
                          You can pick up a dual action (DA) buffer from Harbor Freight for less than $50. I did, and so far seems to work great. I have a rotary that I normally use, but this is a lot easier to use especially if you're new at buffing. With a rotary, you can take the paint off an edge in a heartbeat. You're much less likely to hurt anything with these!
                          Here's a link to a discussion on this one:http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ight-6-da.html

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                          • #14
                            Its just my 2 cents worth, but if you really want to be careful about burning the paint on ridges and seems, do your buffing by hand. Yes, I know its very time consuming, but in my opinion safer on the paint. I start with the least aggressive compound or polish I can find and see what the results are before I move to something more aggressive, again to be careful because you are removing paint, the more aggressive the compound, the more paint is removed. I recently did this on a 40 year old lacquer paint job, and the results were pretty good. I have had good luck with most brands, there are some good web sites from suppliers like www.autogeek.net and also http://www.buschshineproducts.com I watched the man from Busch recommend using a random orbital sander(palm size) with a buffing pad for buffing and polishing. You can check his site to see what he recommends.

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                            • #15
                              My preference is Meguiars products... "Fine Cut" or "Ultimate" for that application. Their web page has numerous instructional videos as well. I use their DA buffer with foam pads... This unit almost eliminates burn through but still stay away from edges. I like the tape idea there.

                              But, by all means use clay first. This removes tree sap and surface grime that you can't even see before you grind it into the paint. You may not visually see the difference between before and after the clay but the feel is like the difference between sandpaper and a baby's back side. Clay video :http://youtu.be/8InVdzi3Idk
                              Last edited by mmagic; 11-22-2012, 12:34 PM. Reason: add link

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