Engine: 6 cylinder overhaul

[LeoH]

With a mechanic that's competent, what's a ballpark figure to consider on a 6 cylinder engine overhaul? With no unexpected complications.
I understand there isn't one set number.

[JohnM15]

The range is huge. Completely depends on condition and what extra you want done. For instance, I had a Champion engine done with the whole nine yards for $6,800. Many on this forum said that I paid way to much. The shop did the following:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13355828/InvoicePDF.pdf

[garyash]

I just had my '63 OHV 6 done. I pulled the head off to check things out since the engine had sat for 20 years and had been stuck. I did get the engine freed up enough that the crank turned and pistons went up and down, no serious rust inside. I hauled the head and block to a good engine shop. They hot-tanked the block, cleaned the oil galleries, bored it .020, installed new freeze plugs, new pistons, rings, main/rod/cam bearings, new oil pump gears, ground the valves, turned the flywheel, painted the block, and supplied me the rest of the complete gasket set. It took about 3-4 weeks, cost about $3,000. All of the parts came from a reputable Studebaker parts dealer, not generic stuff. I am happy with their work, thought the price was fair (but not cheap). You might get by with less if you do all of the disassembly and re-assembly. Outside of New England, labor rates may be less, too.

[PackardV8]

John's $6,800 is the all-time record.

Gary's $3,000 is typical for good work by a reputable shop.

I'd do one with no unexpected complications; all new pistons, rings, bearings, valves, guides, reground cam and crank, milled head and flywheel for about $2500.

On a Champion, the unexpected complication is always worn lifter bores. That's the #1 cause of low oil pressure. Since NOS oversize lifters are difficult to find, there is where a rebuild can get into the unknown. Make sure any shop has an answer to this question.

jack vines

[JohnM15]

I agree that mine was probably a record! They did have to stitch the block in two places and everything was weighed, trimmed, and balanced. Of course this included the starter rebuild, fly wheel ring gear, and resurfacing. Rods were straightened and honed. Main journals were line bored. After all this work I would have expected that they CC the combustion chambers but they said that they didn't do that. Odd. I did push them to pay attention to the lifter bores. Good news was that the bores were good so no need for over size lifter. Their solution would have been to plate and turn the lifters and bores. Oil pressure is normal, 10-15 lbs at idle, 40-50 at speed, hot w/10w30 Valvoline VR-1. 20w50 a bit higher. No lifter galley block. Compression on all cylinders is 100-105 lbs.

[LeoH]

Thank you Jack. That's worth remembering. Thanks Gary for the list. I had your list of tasks in mind with my question. John's work list doesn't sound too far off the mark from his total bill it seems. Was that work done on your 48 pictured?

[JohnM15]

Yes. I removed the front clip, pulled the engine and put in a home made enclosed pallet. UPS picked it up and delivered it. While it was away I got caught up with a bunch of work on the truck. Here is a link to my blog: http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/ If you scroll down and to the right, you'll find a tree to view all the different entries since the beginning including the engine rebuild pictures and video the rebuilder sent me during the process.

[RadioRoy]

On a Champion, the unexpected complication is always worn lifter bores. That's the #1 cause of low oil pressure. Since NOS oversize lifters are difficult to find, there is where a rebuild can get into the unknown. Make sure any shop has an answer to this question.

jack vines

Jack, what is the fix for worn lifter bores if oversize lifters cannot be found? Can the lifter bores be sleeved like a cylinder bore can?

[JohnM15]

The machinist I used says that bore and sleeve could be done but it would be better to chrome plate and machine the lifters and true up the bores to match.