Almost made it home....

[cultural infidel]

Transmission in the 65 finally gave out on me.

I was a half mile from home. So I did the only thing that I could think of, I sat on the trunk and called for a tow. At least it happened when I was near home, my father in law was able to chain me up and pull me.

While it is frustrating, a little. I knew it was coming. I got about 2800 miles out of the car in the past 4 months. It was able to give us a second vehicle while we saved up for a new family car. Going to look a couple this weekend.

as of now, I am going to push it in to the garage and tinker with it over the winter. Clean it up a bit. Save up a few bucks and look in to the OD trans option.

[1962larksedan]

I'm lost here: which Stude lost its tranny? If it's the 1965; I seriously consider swapping in a 700R4 assuming the original trans was an AT since you already have a Chevy engine.

[cultural infidel]

I'm lost here: which Stude lost its tranny? If it's the 1965; I seriously consider swapping in a 700R4 assuming the original trans was an AT since you already have a Chevy engine.

it was in the 65. I am considering the 700r4 or the 200r4. Not really set either way.

[1962larksedan]

it was in the 65. I am considering the 700r4 or the 200r4. Not really set either way.

If either of the above trannys you listed were good enough from the factory for a 1980's Lark platform Avanti, they'd be good enough for your 1965 IMHO.

[sweetolbob]

it was in the 65. I am considering the 700r4 or the 200r4. Not really set either way.

This may sound like a strange opinion coming from a believer in the 2004R but you might also consider a TH350/400 tranny if you only plan on driving short distances. With those you give up the overdrive gear but eliminate the TV cable which would require a carb adapter and some touchy adjustment. If you decide you want to drive it more and want an overdrive gear then go for the 200/700 option. The 350/400 use a kick down cable but adjustment is easier and non-critical.

A couple things though, the 700 has a big case so be sure you measure before installing so you know it fits. You with probably change the drive shaft length with any of the options so get out you tape measure and visit the wrecking yards to find the correct length. If the yoke is different then change the u-joints to adapt your current one. 4X4 shops handle this all the time so just find one and ask.

If you chose the 700, be sure to find a true manual unit as the later units are computer controlled, 93 trucks, 94 cars they started and are usually called 4L60E's. Avoid them.

You can probably find them in wrecking yards for $150 up but check them before you install them.

Heck, if you were closer, I have a TH400 in the polebarn you could have.

Bob

[1962larksedan]

A rich source of the 'old style' 700R4's would be ca. 1990 on down Chevy pickups/Suburbans and vans.

[junior]

This may sound like a strange opinion coming from a believer in the 2004R but you might also consider a TH350/400 tranny if you only plan on driving short distances. With those you give up the overdrive gear but eliminate the TV cable which would require a carb adapter and some touchy adjustment. If you decide you want to drive it more and want an overdrive gear then go for the 200/700 option. The 350/400 use a kick down cable but adjustment is easier and non-critical.

A couple things though, the 700 has a big case so be sure you measure before installing so you know it fits. You with probably change the drive shaft length with any of the options so get out you tape measure and visit the wrecking yards to find the correct length. If the yoke is different then change the u-joints to adapt your current one. 4X4 shops handle this all the time so just find one and ask.

If you chose the 700, be sure to find a true manual unit as the later units are computer controlled, 93 trucks, 94 cars they started and are usually called 4L60E's. Avoid them.

You can probably find them in wrecking yards for $150 up but check them before you install them.

Heck, if you were closer, I have a TH400 in the polebarn you could have.

Bob

Hey, Bob was thinking exactly what I was thinking, only I would focus on the TH350, as they are still really really cheap, and not in demand as much as the bigger stronger 400. It sounds like you're on a pretty tight budget, and going with the TH350 you're going to save $, the 283 will have a very difficult time (as in probably never) break it, and they are idiot-proof, in fact you wouldn't even have to hook up the kick-down cable if you chose to manually pull your gear selector into low or second. If you lived closer to me I'd tell you to drop over to my place and I would give you my old 350 and converter and aftermarket cooler for free. Just some thoughts...Junior.

[JRoberts]

We put a 200r4 in my '65 Cruiser and it works just fine.

[cultural infidel]

We put a 200r4 in my '65 Cruiser and it works just fine.

how was the fit? much work involved?

[wittsend]

I'd concur on the simplicity and cost of the 350 tranny. I've already sent this to Sean before, but for the sake of filling in others reading the post:

1. The 700R4 bolts right to the Chevy engine.
2. The "Batwing" crossmember must be removed and about 50% of its rear, center area cut out. I recommend reenforcing the remaining.
3. The lower converter cover still needs some indenting to clear the Batwing crossmember. There are two covers. One for standard sized and another for mini starters.
4. The rear (transmission) crossmember only has to have its holes slotted rearward. However, that is predicated on the 700R4 having the correct of three available tailshafts (the one that takes the "standard" Chevy mount).
5. Sean and I have the longer wheelbase 4dr. cars. I found a '75 Buick Skylark driveshaft that fit and another option might be the mid 90's Caprice (cop cars). All 350's and later 700R4's have the same yoke. Regardless of my recommendations MEASURE BEFORE YOU BUY! Oh..., and understand the Studebaker "broken back" driveshaft angle configuration before you go nuts trying to set the angles to the "standard" correctness.
6. Shifter linkage (I opted for a Camaro floor shifter) and the dreaded TV cable are something that you just have to work out.
7. The overdrive power and a release during braking needs to be wired in.
8. A trans cooler is recommended.
9. DON'T FORGET TO PULL THE PILOT BEARING OUT OF THE CRANKSHAFT!!!

I just found the process drawn out. I couldn't figure out the batwing clearance, crossmember slotting and driveshaft length until I had the transmission in. I probably had the batwing in/out of the car five times during cutting/reenforcing. I probably crawled under 100 cars before I found the driveshaft. I spent 2-3 hours indenting the converter cover to clear the batwing, - but not hit the converter. There were probably 15 "test fits" for that. I won't even go on about the TV cable. Each individual aspect usually required "another" trip to the junkyard. I also spent countless hours gathering information on the internet to get this done.

If folks have the time, tools and inclination (or money) the concept is a good one. But it is no "weekend" project (especially on a budget). Working 3-5 hours a day (I'm a college instructor with summers off) it was about 2 weeks to get the bulk of the project done. Some of that time was spent cleaning/painting parts which might not be on everyone's agenda.


Tom

[1962larksedan]

Side note here: on my 1962 Lark Y body (113" WB 4 door); a 1978 Caprice driveshaft fit perfectly with its swapped in TH350, just had to switch the rear yoke to accommodate the 8" Ford rear end.