Hey guys, I've looked for specifics about this, but came up with nothing. So my dumb question pertains to cleaning an old oil bath air cleaner. The manual says to clean it with kerosene, but having never used the stuff -- ever, what does that mean? Do I just get a gallon or so in a tub and submerge the oil bath unit in there and let it soak? If so, for how long? What do I do with the kerosene afterwards? And is this still the best way to clean the air cleaner with all the new products we have these days. I read about some product called "purple power" used for cleaning auto parts. I have used Simple Green in the past -- Is that or some other product superior or easier to use than kerosene. Thanks for any info, I just have never done this before...
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In the past, kerosene or gasoline was used to dissolve the gums left behind by oils and such. It worked well as a solvent, but we have better stuff now. Simple Green is great; Costco has begun stocking a cleaner called Oil Eater that works pretty well. Ignore the manual in this instance - go with the modern alternative
Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
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Originally posted by deco_droid View PostHey guys, I've looked for specifics about this, but came up with nothing. So my dumb question pertains to cleaning an old oil bath air cleaner. The manual says to clean it with kerosene, but having never used the stuff -- ever, what does that mean? Do I just get a gallon or so in a tub and submerge the oil bath unit in there and let it soak? If so, for how long? What do I do with the kerosene afterwards? And is this still the best way to clean the air cleaner with all the new products we have these days. I read about some product called "purple power" used for cleaning auto parts. I have used Simple Green in the past -- Is that or some other product superior or easier to use than kerosene. Thanks for any info, I just have never done this before...
Disposing of used Kerosene nowadays might be a problem. As for myself, I would put it in my parts washer.
If you can't find Kerosene readily, Mineral Spirits or Paint thinner (not reducer) will do just as well.Neil Thornton
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Another good alternative would be mineral spirits. It's readily available in any store's paint department, in quantities from a pint to a gallon. Another benefit is it cleans many surfaces without staining or leaving a fowl odor. Hope this helps.(sorry for the duplication Neil)
Dan Miller
Auburn, GA
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Of course, if you have access to a parts washer...Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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Thanks for the info -- Well if Simple Green is fine, then I will dunk the unit in that in a bucket and let it sit I guess. How long should I leave it, and how long does it take for the unit to dry out, before I can reinstall it? Thanks.sigpic
1950 Commander Starlight Coupe
Regal Deluxe Trim
Automatic transmission
46k original miles, 4th Owner
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About 5-6 years ago I started using Paint Thinner to clean my auto parts. At $2.19 a gallon it was significantly cheaper than a $2.99, 12 oz. can of spray cleaner. I'd either us it in a bucket or a hand pump sprayer. Within a year or two the price went up to $7.99. Just the other day I went looking to price the stuff and neither WalMart nor Home Depot carried "paint thinner." Only mineral spirits were available at $14.99 a gallon!!!
How does a $2.19 product go to $14.99? It's like gas going from $4.00 a gallon to $28 a gallon!
TomLast edited by wittsend; 10-16-2012, 10:56 AM.'64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.
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Originally posted by mbstude View PostI don't know if I would submerge it. You may pull it out and find all the paint stripped off.Last edited by deco_droid; 10-16-2012, 01:56 PM.sigpic
1950 Commander Starlight Coupe
Regal Deluxe Trim
Automatic transmission
46k original miles, 4th Owner
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Not sure why you would need to soak it for any length of time?
If you are cleaning out the body, just empty it, and wipe/scrub/scrape out any gunk/sludge, followed by a wipe with mild solvent.
If the gunk is really stuck, then maybe a spray of engine degreaser or such, just to soften the gunk/sludge.
If you want to clean out the element, then dunk and slosh that in a mild solvent, then drain and blow out with compressed air and let it dry. All you are trying to do is dislodge any dust and particles that are stuck in the element.
Then lightly oil the element, fill the bowl to the line, and reinstall the element/lid.
Remember how these work, dirty air is sucked down towards the surface of the oil in the bowl, and then sharply upward into the throat. Because the solid particles can't make the sharp turn and are trapped in the oil and accumulate there.
And yes to what Rich said whilst I was typing!
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Okay, I think I got it now, guys. I thought there was a lot of gunk in the element that needed to be cleaned out thoroughly -- that makes sense, skyway -- thanks so much!Last edited by deco_droid; 10-16-2012, 02:39 PM.sigpic
1950 Commander Starlight Coupe
Regal Deluxe Trim
Automatic transmission
46k original miles, 4th Owner
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