Engine: Engine pulling options

[lark-o-rama]

Hi all,

Whenever I contemplate a big project (Studebaker project) I try my best to research the archives so not to ask the same question over and over. I did this but I still need some good advice.

The car is a 60' lark wagon, 259. It runs good but its old and tired. Its the perfect time of the year to prepare for this, I have the $$ and the time, A warm garage (single stall) but very appreciative of what It is. With that being said. space would be a challenge for a front clip removal. I am sure I could probably make that work but It would end up in the driveway, but not the best for me or my loving supportive GF.

Sooooo... re-reading older posts, most said to remove engine/trans together, its a 3 speed/OD.
I will remove the radiator for sure, its brand new. All the obvious items will be removed.

If I remove the front piece thats holds the grill, headlights, radiator support, would this be better than trying to lift the engine with the bay intact?

I am still not sure why I cannot just remove the engine, or?

I am going to invest in a 4 chain lift bar/adjustable angle, was told their worth it. I do have a 1961 Stuebaker motor manual (great e-bay find) that I will follow as well as re-reading older posts on what has to be removed and what can stay.

In my world, the less I have to remove, the better.. but will do what's necessary to make things easier for me and safety.


Thanks!


Dave

[Tom Bredehoft]

You'll probably find that the front piece thats holds the grill, headlights, radiator support also holds the front fenders. they will be floppy. Once that is removed, however a cherry picker will work to remove the engine/transmission. I've never done this on a Lark body, but once this [part] is removed on a 53-58, there are only three screws holding each fender, all at the firewall.

Without removing the above, you will have to lift the engine/transmission above the radiator support and that's probably higher than your cherry picker will go.

Its gonna be difficult either way.

[lark-o-rama]

You'll probably find that the front piece thats holds the grill, headlights, radiator support also holds the front fenders. they will be floppy. Once that is removed, however a cherry picker will work to remove the engine/transmission. I've never done this on a Lark body, but once this [part] is removed on a 53-58, there are only three screws holding each fender, all at the firewall.

Without removing the above, you will have to lift the engine/transmission above the radiator support and that's probably higher than your cherry picker will go.

Its gonna be difficult either way.

Thats what I figured Tom.. Its probably going to be easiest taking the front clip off. Ok

Thanks..

[41 Frank]

While removing the piece that contains the headlights, grille, etc. sounds good on paper,the reality of it is that getting the bolts out that attach that front panel to the front fenders after all these years will be next to impossible. It would be a lot easier to remove the front clip in one piece and put up with it sitting outside. Don't ask me how I know! There are bolts under the fender right above the headlights that get frozen in place but have to come out in order to seperate the front panel from the front fenders. On my Lark I had to chop into the top of the fenders, (which were to be discarded), in order to get them out.

[Kurt]

I just finished an engine swap in my Champ truck. The front clip is the same as a Lark..... I thought about taking the front clip off, but chose not too. I pulled the transmission out of the bellhousing and pulled the engine and bellhousing as a unit. Worked really good. Just get some old blankets and lay them on the fenders to protect the paint.

[Kurt]

One more thing. If you choose the route I mentioned, you MUST remove the water pump manifold from the front of the engine.Another big help would be a leveling device on your engine hoist.

[lark-o-rama]

One more thing. If you choose the route I mentioned, you MUST remove the water pump manifold from the front of the engine.Another big help would be a leveling device on your engine hoist.

Hey Kurt, Thanks for the input
Did you use a standard cherry picker?

[lark-o-rama]

One more thing. If you choose the route I mentioned, you MUST remove the water pump manifold from the front of the engine.Another big help would be a leveling device on your engine hoist.

Yes on the engine hoist.. friend of mine who owns an automotive shop says it makes tilting the engine easier.

[jackb]

I have removed a 289 w/ OD from a 63' Cruiser (Lark) without removing the front panel or doghouse. In this case, I was fearful I would break off multiple screws/bolts in the process and never get it all back together. I removed the hood, radiator, fan, alternator, and bellcrank. I did remove the engine/bellhousing support and pulled the entire unit as a whole. I did this with a rented engine hoist without problems. I'd suggest a 2nd person on the hoist. Went back in easily with some caution to the throttle bellcrank and steering gear......Use the leveler.....GL (pics available)

[lark-o-rama]

I have removed a 289 w/ OD from a 63' Cruiser (Lark) without removing the front panel or doghouse. In this case, I was fearful I would break off multiple screws/bolts in the process and never get it all back together. I removed the hood, radiator, fan, alternator, and bellcrank. I did remove the engine/bellhousing support and pulled the entire unit as a whole. I did this with a rented engine hoist without problems. I'd suggest a 2nd person on the hoist. Went back in easily with some caution to the throttle bellcrank and steering gear......Use the leveler.....GL (pics available)

I would like to see those pics if possible..

[rockinhawk]

We are in the process of removing Josh's engine from his 60 Lark. First thing to go was the front clip. But then I needed to take it off to do some body work anyhow. It sure makes it easy to get to things to unbolt.
there are 3 bolts that hold the fender to the door post.3 more that hold the inner fender to the firewall,and one on each side of the rad.support. 14 bolts all togather.

[Kurt]

We are in the process of removing Josh's engine from his 60 Lark. First thing to go was the front clip. But then I needed to take it off to do some body work anyhow. It sure makes it easy to get to things to unbolt.
there are 3 bolts that hold the fender to the door post.3 more that hold the inner fender to the firewall,and one on each side of the rad.support. 14 bolts all togather.

Neil is right.... If you need to do bodywork anyway, by all means remove the dog house. If you don't need to do any body work though, it really isn't to bad of a job. Just follow the advice given here. Good Luck!!

[1962larksedan]

I just finished an engine swap in my Champ truck. The front clip is the same as a Lark..... I thought about taking the front clip off, but chose not too. I pulled the transmission out of the bellhousing and pulled the engine and bellhousing as a unit. Worked really good. Just get some old blankets and lay them on the fenders to protect the paint.

I did just that on my 1962 Lark 259. Pulled the 3spd/OD first than yanked the motor/bellhousing as a unit without removing any sheetmetal.

[lark-o-rama]

Neil is right.... If you need to do bodywork anyway, by all means remove the dog house. If you don't need to do any body work though, it really isn't to bad of a job. Just follow the advice given here. Good Luck!!

Awesome... Appreciate all the good advice

[candbstudebakers]

One thing to remember if you pull engine and trans together get a old slip yoke and put in the rear of the trany to keep the fluid in and not all over the floor.