Electrical: Lighting brighter or better bulbs?

[Jet Green Daytona]

I am sure this is a topic that has been discussed many times, but after reading the technical section of the newest Turning Wheels, its got my attention. The letter in the techinical section advises to paint the reflectors on the tail/stop lights. I haven't taken mine apart yet, so this might be a part of my problem as well, but people are telling me that my tail lights and brake lights are not very bright or not working at all. I have checked them every time I get in the car and they are always working, however I did find a break or nick in one of the wires going to the passenger side tail light which is probably causing the intermitet not working at all problem. I am going to fix that today before I head out with the car. Anyhow, my question is has anyone experimented with newer LED or Halogen bulbs in the tail lights and back up lights? and what were the results? I have seen that Sylvania makes an "Ultra" line of bulbs including the standard 1157's which are supposed to be brighter and last longer but I cannot seem to find them in my local stores, the stores I have visited just carry the standard Sylvanias. Is there another brand that offers the same thing?

I also read in another post about headlights upgraded to a (I think) Cibie brand halogen headlight. Has anyone done this and what are the results of that?


Perhaps I should mention the car I am talking about is a 1964 Daytona.

Thanks for the help. Todd

[52-fan]

I had always planned to upgrade to better bulbs if I did it again, but on my 52 years ago, I put aluminum foil behind the bulb area. The difference was considerable. That particular car had the original light fixture painted a bright white which had dulled with age. Your later car may be different.

[gordr]

The go-to site:

Here is one of the best Web sites for automotive lighting products and advice.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

Cibie lights are known as e-Code lights, meaning they are built to European standards, which were definitely superior to those in effect in the USA at the time our cars were made. If you put e-code lamps in your Daytona, plan on installing a dual headlamp relay, and using all new wire from the relays onward to the lamp units. The factory wire is too thin to handle the power drain, and the headlamp switch, dimmer switch, and harness are, too. But they can handle the load of a relay just fine.

You can buy #2357 lamps for your tail lights, which are 25% brighter on the stop/turn filament, and the same on the tail filament. Simply cleaning the housings, and inside of the lens will do wonders. If the reflectors are rusty, cleaning and painting them white or using "chrome" bumper paint again works wonders.

I think you will find that e-code lamps, properly installed and wired, will outperform even the HID lamps in high-dollar new cars. They certainly don't glare as much as in the eyes of drivers of oncoming vehicles.

[Skip Lackie]

Concur 100% with Gordon. I put e-code halogen headlights in several of my cars >30 years ago, before they were even legal in the US. I think my 64 Daytona has Cibies and the 62 Chevy has Marchals. If properly aimed, they don't blind oncoming traffic any more than regular sealed beams, and they illuminate the road surface much better, especially when wet. But as Gord said, you do need new wiring and a relay. Many auto parts stores sell kits that are complete with the lamps, wiring and relay.

A note on brighter tail lamp bulbs. There has been discussion on some other boards that the Chinese-made 1157 and 2357 bulbs burn much hotter and can melt a hole in tail lamp lenses, especially thinner reproduction lenses. If changing to brighter bulbs, keep an eye on the lenses.

[Paul Keller]

Have installed halogen (NOT quartz halogen, which are extremely hot, hot hot) tail/brake bulbs. The are noticably brighter than any of the incandesent bulbs I've tried. Speedway sells both and has info on why not to use the quartz halogen - good info.
Paul TK

[Bud]

I use 2357 bulbs in my Studebakers as the bulbs are brighter, 40 candle power vs. 32 candle power for an 1157 bulb. Be sure that the lenses are clean along with repainting the reflector and don't forget about cleaning the electrical connections especially the ground connections. Bud

[(S)]

Are those Cibie type, the plastic and glass headlights that you can replace just the bulb if needed? Those are sweet! I just found some and was wondering what to do with them.

[Skip Lackie]

Are those Cibie type, the plastic and glass headlights that you can replace just the bulb if needed? Those are sweet! I just found some and was wondering what to do with them.

Yes, they use replaceable bulbs, which does mean that they're more susceptible to condensation inside if they're exposed to a lot of moisture. Complete kits in both round lamp sizes are made by all the big European companies: Hella, Cibie, Marchall, Carello, etc. Even J.C.Whitney sells them. Some halogen bulbs (H4) are legal in the US only in motorcycles and off-road vehicles.

[Jet Green Daytona]

Thanks for all the advice. Yesterday I cleaned up the couple of wiring issues I had with the tail lights. It was basically just sloppy work done before I owned the car, so now that, that is cleaned up, I will drive the car and see if anyone makes comments if they are not bright enough. I checked them in my garage with the doors closed and the lights out, they seemed to be a normal brightness to me. Of course now a days you can't give the people enough warning that you are slowing down or turning.

Todd

[gordr]

Most of the e-Code headlamps in the aftermarket use H4 bulbs, which is basically a size/base designation. They are available in power ratings all the way from 60/55W to over a 100W. Even the 60/55W will be a big improvement over stock seal beams.

With the weird and wonderful assortment of stock headlamps out there now, I doubt e-Code lamps in a Studebaker would rate even a second look from most cops, unless you had hundred-watters in there, and had just fried one's eyeballs with the high beams.

Hello Vendors! This is something that ought to be a good seller. Buy the lamp kit wholesale, and package it up along with new H.D. headlamp pigtails, relays, fuse and instructions specific to the various Studebaker models. And, as far as I am concerned, it's a safety-related modification, and should not cost authenticity points in judging.

[(S)]

Actually, I think the 'official word' on judging headlights is that they simply must all match each other. (brand)

It would be up to a judge to give points to a car that had something 'special' like original lamps, spark plug wires, etc only if ALL of the other cars in the row do not. It is rare. Only a judge like myself would ever want to nit pick into details nobody else cares about.... I would only do so in a 'tie' on the second walk through to pick a true first place car and I believe there should only ever be 'one' first place in each division. (no 6 way ties!)

Judging is not easy, that is why the rules are not as tight as they used to be. For me to 'truely' judge a row of Larks or anything else would make the owners really want to hate me.

Parts guys like me know what original battery cables look like, the colors, the date codes on original , red spark plug wires, we know your (black) starter sol is not original and your orange fram filter should be red at least, your front springs had certain color/s stripes painted on them, and on and on..... It has been many years since these were new, lots of these items are very hard to replicate or even find anymore...... Just finding a person who has seen original items, or remembers is just as hard, that is why the forms have been simplified. Just a bit off topic, sorry.

[Skybolt]

Why don't you guys use LED's? Bright, cool and will last for many years longer than other types. I you are interested I have most of the information for 12 volt late model bulbs. I have them for every bulb in my car except the headlights. I swapped my headlights to Halogen.

Len.

[Jet Green Daytona]

Why don't you guys use LED's? Bright, cool and will last for many years longer than other types. I you are interested I have most of the information for 12 volt late model bulbs. I have them for every bulb in my car except the headlights. I swapped my headlights to Halogen.

Len.

Yes, I'm interested Len. When you have time why don't you post that information for me?

Todd

[avantibngrant]

Yes, I'm interested Len. When you have time why don't you post that information for me?

Todd

Yes I am interested also. Any problems with the unidirectional aspect? I am looking to change the brake and tail lights on the Avanti.

Neil

[Skip Lackie]

Most of the e-Code headlamps in the aftermarket use H4 bulbs, which is basically a size/base designation. They are available in power ratings all the way from 60/55W to over a 100W. Even the 60/55W will be a big improvement over stock seal beams.

With the weird and wonderful assortment of stock headlamps out there now, I doubt e-Code lamps in a Studebaker would rate even a second look from most cops, unless you had hundred-watters in there, and had just fried one's eyeballs with the high beams.

I agree, Gord. My warning was really intended for those who have to have their cars safety inspected by overzealous inspectors looking for an excuse to flunk their vehicles. The E-code symbol on the glass is easy to see. I may the only one to have had this experience, but after a couple of bad experiences, I was forced to re-install sealed beams for a few days every other year -- just long enough to get an inspection sticker.