Rear Axle: Pinion Seal removal and installation questions

[53k]

In all my years of working on my cars I have never changed a pinion seal. The discussion in the Shop Manual refers to several special tools, a Universal Joint Flange Holding Tool, J-6371, a Universal Joint Flange Puller, J-2576, a Pinion Shaft Oil Seal Replacer, J-2037, a Driver Handle, J-8092, and a Companion Flange and Pinion Bearing Pusher Set, J-2204. I certainly don't have any of these tools, but I may be able to improvise on some things. What tools do you experts use to do this job? Also, the manual mentions "apply a sealer on outer edge of seal housing to seal between pinion seal and differential housing". What kind of sealer are we talking about- silicone, gasket cement, what?
Thanks.

[53hardtop]

I don't claim to be an expert but this worked for me. I used a chunk of the appropriate diameter PVC pipe and hammer to install. Don't remember if I used any sort of goop. You could even get fancier and weld the big nut to the plate so you wouldn't have to use wrench to hold the nut. but you kinda need the wrench to keep the pinion from spinning anyway. Looks like I used a 7/17 or 1/2 bolt. I even painted this red and wrote "Stude pinion puller" on it when I was done.

[53commander]

A pipe wrench works good to hold the flange. The seal has a cork gasket behind it so make sure to remove the old one. The new seal from SI comes with the gasket. You will need the right diameter installer/pipe to put in the new seal or you can easily damage it.

[53k]

A pipe wrench works good to hold the flange. The seal has a cork gasket behind it so make sure to remove the old one. The new seal from SI comes with the gasket. You will need the right diameter installer/pipe to put in the new seal or you can easily damage it.

Armed with my 24" pipe wrench, a large socket set and a breaker bar I started the removal job. After I dropped the drive shaft I decided just for kicks to try the socket on my half-inch ratchet. The nut was barely more than finger tight. With the nut off I decided to take hold of the yoke rather than hook up the puller I was going to use. The yoke slid right off in my hand.
Anyhow, I haven't pulled the old seal yet (thumbnail). I have a NOS seal and I bought a seal at SI during the IM. They are very different (second thumbnail). I think the new seal will work OK, but it seems kind of flimsy compared to the old stock one. Which is best to use?
Since the pinion shaft nut was basically loose, what torque on re-installation should I be using to avoid any further crushing of the collar?
Thanks.

[sweetolbob]

Armed with my 24" pipe wrench, a large socket set and a breaker bar I started the removal job. After I dropped the drive shaft I decided just for kicks to try the socket on my half-inch ratchet. The nut was barely more than finger tight. With the nut off I decided to take hold of the yoke rather than hook up the puller I was going to use. The yoke slid right off in my hand.
Anyhow, I haven't pulled the old seal yet (thumbnail). I have a NOS seal and I bought a seal at SI during the IM. They are very different (second thumbnail). I think the new seal will work OK, but it seems kind of flimsy compared to the old stock one. Which is best to use?
Since the pinion shaft nut was basically loose, what torque on re-installation should I be using to avoid any further crushing of the collar?
Thanks.

Paul

If by "further crushing the collar" you are worried about a crush collar, Don't worry. The pinion specs are set by shims not a crush collar so torquing it to 150# or so should not effect the clearances. If it does, the shim pack needs to be adjusted.

For the record, here is a diagram of a Dana 44 assembly. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-ax...herokee-sj.htm

Bob

[starliner62]

Also remember to put a little sealer on the splines of the yoke, especially if it came off easily. Rear axle fluid will creep down the splines and cause a leak.

[53commander]

Whatever you do dont tap on the oputside of the new seal to install it or else it will crush inwards. You need to tap it in with something that will fit in the inside edge where the gasket is. I used a installer I have from a ball joint installer set.

[53k]

Also remember to put a little sealer on the splines of the yoke, especially if it came off easily. Rear axle fluid will creep down the splines and cause a leak.

Thanks. My son warned me to do that too. He had just had that happen to him on a truck he was working on and it prompted him to call me.
However, so far I haven't been able to get the old seal out. I thought I had a general purpose puller that might work, but I can't find it so it must have been and imaginary one.

[unclemiltie]

I have the original Studebaker tools as indicated in the shop manual. While they make the job a bit easier, the methods described by others above are just as effective.