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View Full Version : Transmission: 289 / Bell Housing / BW T10 - '61 Hawk



Stude-Dude
07-21-2012, 10:25 AM
I have the BW T10 dropped and the only thing behind the 289 is the bell housing - why isn't the bell housing wanting to break free from the engine, what am I missing?

mbstude
07-21-2012, 10:30 AM
There's a dowel pin on each side of the housing that aligns it to the block, and it's a tight fit. Hammer a flat tip screw driver between the housing and the block and it should pop free.

SN-60
07-21-2012, 10:31 AM
To: Stude-Dude,------- The two dowel pins are a tight press fit. Tap those out and the bell will fall right off. (Watch out for falling bells!!)

Alan
07-21-2012, 10:33 AM
Or you can take a pin punch and push one of the .343" dowel pins in till it is flush with the block.

Stude-Dude
07-21-2012, 10:55 AM
if I stare into the back of the bell from the drive shaft side of things, noon being the hole in the floor for the stick shift, approx 10:30 being the driver's seat, what time on the clock are the two dowel pins?

mbstude
07-21-2012, 11:00 AM
if I stare into the back of the bell from the drive shaft side of things, noon being the hole in the floor for the stick shift, approx 10:30 being the driver's seat, what time on the clock are the two dowel pins?

About 3 and 9.

StudeRich
07-21-2012, 12:17 PM
Be very sure that you removed ALL of the Bellhousing to Block Bolts, I have seen many housings with one of the THREE top bolt holes broken off. There is one 12:00, and about 11:00 and 1:00.

studebaker-R2-4-me
07-21-2012, 12:51 PM
I don't own a manual car and have never taken one apart but automatics are supported by the bellhousing, with them you have to take out the transmission mounts, drop the engine to access the top three bolts of the bellhousing,... so the engine needs to be supported as well to get the bellhousing off.

Allen

SN-60
07-21-2012, 01:51 PM
To: studebaker-R2-4 me,---------That is FOR SURE!

Alan
07-21-2012, 01:52 PM
You would get a nasty fat lip if you drove those pins out with the weight on the bellhousing.

Stude-Dude
07-28-2012, 02:52 PM
The half that you see the green arrow and red arrow pointing to runs under the arm (one of three) where the yellow arrow is…

The “break” is where the red arrow is pointing to…
The green arrow shows where it inserts at…

The lighting is too dark, but the other half is where the yellow arrow-head is at…

The part under the arm is still there, the part that is supposed to connect in with the half sitting on top at the red arrow-head…

There are three of these “springs”, each one with two “coils”, a coil on each side of the three arms that the yellow arrow is running across…

Should this be replaced? Or would you not worry about it? The arm’s spring tension “appears to be” NOT from this two-coiled spring, but rather a “barrel spring” on the underside (I have not removed the arm to “confirm” whether the “barrel” has a spring in it or not)… All three “arms”, even the one with only “halve” of the two-coiled spring all feel to have the same “tension” when pushing in/down…

Stude-Dude
08-02-2012, 09:54 PM
I'm officially back on the road :)
Replaced the flywheel from out of a '63 Avanti, kept the same pressure plate, replaced clutch plate and release bearing, replaced starter Bendix and brushes...

Patting myself on the back...
I grew up around cars, but this was my first "un-assisted" tear-down for something this major...

Now onto tuning 'er up, she's a bit rough after sitting seven months or so...