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View Full Version : Paint: Vinyl Dye vs Vinyl Paint



wittsend
07-18-2012, 05:18 PM
Is anyone familiar with vinyl dye - vs - vinyl paint? I have been to car shows and seen demo setups, but generally looking for mechanicals..., I paid little attention. I have some interior parts that are soft, pliable (rubber, vinyl???) that I need to change from gray to black.

My experience with vinyl paint has been ok except that I find the painted surfaces seem to stick to each other (like headliners to sun visors) even years after painting. My hope with the dye was that the "stickiness" would not be present. Especially since this is for a hinged, console arm rest where two treated parts would be pressing into each other. The other aspect of the dye was that it seems to penetrate the vinyl and not fill in crevices like paint.

Any input regarding experience, products (and where to buy) would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

Skybolt
07-18-2012, 05:32 PM
I have use the paint years ago and did not like the result. The dye I used to change the middle section of my Lark from a pink to a tan was excellent. That I picked up at O'Reilly's and found the finish to be equal to the original. It penetrated the material and didn't sit on top as a coat. When I get home I will post more details.

sweetolbob
07-18-2012, 05:54 PM
Tom

When I changed the color of my vinyl covered steering wheel in the 54K (Camaro) I used SEM vinyl dye (I believe Dye) and it has held up for a number of years and was not sticky. You will probably need to go to a good auto paint store to find it. If you can't find it ask the paint folks what they suggest.

IIRC it covered very well, Bob

SN-60
07-18-2012, 06:19 PM
To: witsend,------- No doubt the SEM vinyl dye that sweetolbob mentions is a good product. I've never used it, but I have used other products in the SEM line, and they are all 'top shelf' Any good auto body supply
store would probably carry the SEM line.

G T Joe
07-19-2012, 08:46 AM
What about vinyl top dye ?, I was thinking of changeing the color on my 70 Cadillac , what is a good brand to use ? I would prefer the professtional vs. general retail , I have done this in the past (30 plus years) and with the new high tech paints I should get better results.

studegary
07-19-2012, 12:59 PM
I have used vinyl dye with good results. However, I only remember using it to freshen up a color or to match similar colors, not for a drastic color change.

studegary
07-19-2012, 01:01 PM
What about vinyl top dye ?, I was thinking of changeing the color on my 70 Cadillac , what is a good brand to use ? I would prefer the professtional vs. general retail , I have done this in the past (30 plus years) and with the new high tech paints I should get better results.

I have some vinyl top dye that I purchased for a car that I sold before using the dye. IIRC, it is saddle tan color. If I can locate it and you are going to South Bend, I will bring it and give it to you there (Inn at Saint Marys), if you can use it.

wittsend
07-19-2012, 11:57 PM
Thank you everyone for the input. I'm finding that there are cans of colorant called "dye" but in the end it is basically some form of "paint." And, that includes the much revered SEM products. I have a couple of new cans of Rustoleum black vinyl paint I got at the Habitat for Humanity store a while back. I quickly sanded a flexible vinyl ruler, sprayed two light coats (it covered bright yellow very well) and 15 minutes later I bent it, scratched it rather hard and saw no cracking, scuffing or paint removal.

So, at $3 a can I'm going forward with it. I'm sure the SEM products are good, but with all their cleaners, preps and paint it was going to be about $60 to paint a console I bought for $12 and U-Pull Parts. Stude Gary, thanks for the offer but I'm in So. Cal - and need black. I hope to paint the console in a few days. I'll report back.

BTW the console is going in my '64 Daytona. I did a 700R4 conversion recently and went to a floor shifter. The console is from a '86 Cadillac Seville. It was one of the few consoles that didn't have a provision for the handbrake (that I didn't need). I cut the console down 2-1/2" and modified the ashtray area to house a 1980's era J.C. Penny "Travel Data System 28" (trip computer). The gray vinyl areas will be black and the sides black carpet. The seats are mid 90's Nissan Maxima. Like the Seville console they proportion well to the 60's Studebaker.

Tom

sweetolbob
07-20-2012, 11:13 AM
Posted by wittsend
I'm sure the SEM products are good, but with all their cleaners, preps and paint it was going to be about $60 to paint a console I bought for $12.

Tom

I guess I missed the memo on using all those expensive add-ons. I just cleaned the steering wheel with 409, wiped down with Prep-sol and sprayed. In any case, good experimenting and please post your results. Nothing wrong with Rustoleum products either.

Bob

wittsend
07-24-2012, 10:44 PM
Ok, I got he console painted, carpeted and installed. I'll include a few pictures. Here is a rundown on the topic:

1. They sell colorant called dye - and called paint. From my research the dye is actually a paint. It may be a different paint..., but still paint.

2. SEM paint comes highly recommended, but is about $14 a can. They recommend you use their cleaners, preps etc. pushing the spraying of one can into the $50-$60 range!

3. I used Rustolium "Vinyl" paint. It is about $6 a can, but I got mine (new) at a Habitat for Humanity store for $3 each. I had previously used this paint on a headliner. It was slightly tacky when dry, but serviceable.

I tested this paint on a hastily prepare flexible ruler (similar rubber like material to the parts I was painting on the console). 15 minutes after applying I gave the ruler a good hard scratch and no paint came off and the surface barely even showed my effort. I did a second test applying acetone before painting with similar results.

For my console parts I scrubbed diligently with detergent, a "scrunge" and Ajax which was recommended on other sites. I rinsed well and wiped with acetone. This piece was far cleaner than my test ruler.

I found the paint to initially apply well, but rather shiny. To compensate for this I held the can a few inches back and the paint took on a "dusty" appearance on the final of three coats. Perhaps not everyone's taste, but I liked it better than shiny.

The greater problem was the nozzle kept clogging regardless of constant spraying - and clearing the nozzle after every stop. I kept pulling nozzles off other cans (probably 10 in all) just to get the job done.

Lastly, I did a scratch test in an obscure area. An initial light scratch produced nothing, but scratching hard like I did on the ruler did remove the paint. This is confounding because I did nothing but wipe the test ruler on my shirt and then paint. With my actual part I did all the recommended cleaning methods then painted.

Anyway, I'm going gingerly with it and hope it is not going to be an issue. There is also an armrest that goes on the rear area. I'm still debating whether to install it or just leave the nice wood hatch that it would cover over.

Tom