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View Full Version : Electrical: New Wiring Harness Installation on 60 Lark Convertible - UPDATE = DONE!



gohdes
07-15-2012, 11:14 PM
Update 7-23: Yessssss! I am DONE with the wiring.

I must say I was very intimidated at first having never done anything this involved. But, I took it slow, one wire at a time, and it was not as bad as I thought. I was still nervous about putting the battery cables back on the first time though, just hoping to not see any smoke! yay, it started, and no smoke!
See you in South Bend!


UPDATE 7-20: I am about 90% done with the re-wiring and it's going pretty good. I must say, it was not as bad as I thought it might be, but is very tedious for someone who has never done it before. I went very slowly, one wire at a time swapping them out.
Just the one coil question left to verify (pink resistor wire)
Thanks for all the input!


Hi,
I started the re-wiring process today due to a small fire in my 1960 Lark Convertible (I have an ongoing thread in the General Discussion but thought a specific question may be better here)

a couple questions:

1. on the voltage regulator, where do you have your ground wire grounded to? According to the directions that came with my new one, it says to ground it to the rubber grommet with the brass insert and the base of the regulator. So, it's directly under the screw on the top left mount where it is touching the bar like it shows it Fig. 1 (see photo scan on instructions). Is this right? I was thinking it should be grounded to firewall.

2. in the shop manual wiring diagram it shows from the Coil + screw, there is a pink wire (#22) that says "1.52 ohm resistance" that goes to the ignition switch. (see photo scan of wiring diagram) The new harness did not have this pink wire, but has a pigtail wire right next to coil that is marked for resistor. My old wiring did have a pink wire, but I saw nothing along the wire. I was told this probably means that my coil has an internal resistor, and I would not need the external one. Does this sound right? I do see that SI has part # 6484685 coil resistor for $9.50. Is this something I could probably get at my FLAPS?

3. Where do I add an in-line fuse to keep future electrical fires from happening? Is it put onto the the Black wire between the starter selenoid and the voltage regulator? What amp fuse to use? I think the largest draw would be the generator at 30 amps.

Thanks All!
Eric Gohdes

Milaca
07-16-2012, 09:21 PM
Here are some photos from the 1962 Hawk. Certainly are a lot of resistors in the system.
Voltage regulator, with resistor:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FwfXoodkubE/UATKZdBvcFI/AAAAAAAAAHI/Ca1IUjQwC_I/s400/7-16-2012%2520006.JPG
Ignition coil, with resistor. Both positive wires come from the main harness, the negative wire to the coil:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IdiuGGucjLI/UATKgFGasKI/AAAAAAAAAHU/YtuuXkhcCYU/s400/7-16-2012%2520008.JPG
Generator with resistor:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p9e-ISqCLUY/UATKWynix4I/AAAAAAAAAHA/YYtN-no-0PQ/s400/7-16-2012%2520009.JPG

Warren Webb
07-16-2012, 11:57 PM
Milaca, those aren't resistors but condensers, used for noise reduction for the radio.

Milaca
07-17-2012, 07:04 PM
Milaca, those aren't resistors but condensers, used for noise reduction for the radio.

Thanks for setting me straight Warren. I guess they are not needed being that my radio doesnt work anyway.

gohdes
07-17-2012, 08:01 PM
Thanks for setting me straight Warren. I guess they are not needed being that my radio doesnt work anyway.

maybe it does, but with all those "noise reducers", that's why you can't hear it!

gohdes
07-18-2012, 11:02 PM
bumping this, still searching for my answers.

StudeRich
07-19-2012, 12:14 AM
Eric, these are hard questions without seeing the Car and knowing for sure which wires you are talking about, so I am not surprised that no one was to quick to respond, sorry.
Always refer to the wiring diagram to be sure of wiring issues as we do not want to mislead you into burning the wiring again. You can always call Studebakers West who most likely made your harness for good advice.

1. The screw they told you to use does screw into the firewall and grounds the Regulator.

2. Yes go to your FLAPS and get a standard approx. 1.50 OHM Resister and connect it to the wire that replaces the Pink resistor wire that is no longer available. Then from the other side of the Resistor connect a wire to the Coil (+) Term. You may have enough excess coiled wire to cut it from the pigtail.

3. Refer to the wiring diagram in the Shop manual to locate the maybe Black wire that goes from the Solenoid to the Ign. switch that is your main power output to the dash, you can put a 35 or 40 AMP fuse holder and two legged fuse in line at the Solenoid in that wire, it MAY be the wire you note I cannot say from here.

Your Gen. is not your largest "draw" it is the OUTPUT to the Batt.


Another good place for a Fuse is one to protect the charging circuit, that would be the wire on the "Batt." term. of the voltage regulator.

If you have installed an optional in or under dash Ammeter, the main power from the Solenoid goes through it, before the Ign. Switch.

gohdes
07-19-2012, 01:08 AM
thanks StudeRich,

1. yes, that screw does go into the firewall eventually, but I wasn't sure that also having it touch the base of the regulator was desired. So, basically the screw touches the brass grommet insert, which then touches the firewall. Okay.

2. here's a pic of the coil wires. There is a green with black tracer coming from the starter solenoid to the + coil. Then there is a pigtail green with black tracer that says "to resistor output", and a black with green tracer wire that says "to 1.52 ohm resistor" that I believe then goes into the dash wiring to the ign switch.
(see photo).
My question is, the wiring I took off had a blue wire (spliced in & replaced at some point I guess) from solenoid to + coil, and a pink wire from + coil to ign. No resistor anywhere. The Napa dude told me that I probably have an internal resistor built into the coil itself, and may not need the external one. How do I know for sure?
What happens if I add an external resistor, and the coil already has an internal resistor?

So, I was thinking maybe I can just put the "output from resistor" black with green tracer wire right onto the + coil?? (in place of the pink that is in wiring diagram).
note: the black with green tracer is listed for 6cyl and the pink is listed for 8 cyl. But it seems to be doing the same thing.
I guess I will call Studebakers West.

3. thanks for advice on where to put a fusible link.

eric

StudeRich
07-19-2012, 01:20 AM
The Pink wire was a resistance wire, that is where the resistor was. Most Coils of recent Mfg. say "internal resistance" on them. An older or original Delco would not, and is not.

gohdes
07-19-2012, 01:13 PM
The Pink wire was a resistance wire, that is where the resistor was. Most Coils of recent Mfg. say "internal resistance" on them. An older or original Delco would not, and is not.

I didn't see anything on my coil, but will look again. I hope it hasn't been missing a resistor all these years! Thanks!

StudeRich
07-19-2012, 05:20 PM
I am really sorry Eric, I thought you would understand the term "Resistance Wire", I forget that all "car guys" are not created equal in Stude. lingo knowledge. :D
The wire IS the resistor! That is why it is a special Pink color never used for anything else.

My guess is Chrysler Products with a similar Prestolite system would be the same.

This is really simplier than you are making it.

gohdes
07-19-2012, 09:58 PM
I am really sorry Eric, I thought you would understand the term "Resistance Wire", I forget that all "car guys" are not created equal in Stude. lingo knowledge. :D
The wire IS the resistor! That is why it is a special Pink color never used for anything else.

My guess is Chrysler Products with a similar Prestolite system would be the same.

This is really simplier than you are making it.

Ahhhh, I get it now. I thought that at first, but said, nah, can't be. I can't learn if I don't look foolish. God knows I have been doing enough of that lately!
That's makes sense with the shop manual picture now! So, it's not anything special with the wire being thicker or whatever, just that the wire itself has resistance in it. My daughter was really excited that I bought a pink wire to add to my Stude however!

Sorry, one more follow up question. Look at my above picture in post #8. What do I do with the black with green tracer wire?
It seems as though the black with green tracer wire is doing the same thing as the pink wire would be, going back under dash to the IGN.
Wonder why black with green tracer color for 6 cyl and the pink for 8 cyl according to the shop manual?
And I wonder why the harness is made to specifically pigtail to a resistor instead of just having a pink wire there?
I didn't call Studebakers West today, maybe I will have to do that tomorrow as I hope to start on the dash wire hookups tomorrow.

Thanks StudeRich for all your help!
Eric

bezhawk
07-19-2012, 10:23 PM
No, you hook it up too. It provides full voltage to the coil when you turn the key to start. (it makes starting spark stronger). When you relax the key, that's when the coil "sees" the reduced voltage from the pink wire. They are switched independently by the ignition switch, don't be alarmed that they go to the same place.

gohdes
07-23-2012, 09:58 PM
[B][COLOR=blue]3. Refer to the wiring diagram in the Shop manual to locate the maybe Black wire that goes from the Solenoid to the Ign. switch that is your main power output to the dash, you can put a 35 or 40 AMP fuse holder and two legged fuse in line at the Solenoid in that wire, it MAY be the wire you note I cannot say from here.

Found this black wire. This is where I am going to put a fusible link.
Thanks StudeRich.
I finished wiring today and started car up, and all went smooth.
Can't wait for South Bend.
Thanks
Eric