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View Full Version : Fuel System: i have a 65 cruiser with a 283 thunderbolt; looking for suggestions on 4bbl carb options



STUDEdudeEYT404
07-04-2012, 02:52 PM
any one have any recommendations on what I should go with? I'm looking to amp up the cruiser a little. if you have any suggestions on what 4 barrel carb would go good with this engine i would greatly appreciate any input I can get

Gunslinger
07-04-2012, 02:59 PM
Edelbrock 500cfm with electric choke. That will do all you want. Easy to adjust and holds its adjustments. You might also consider an Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS intake manifold as well. The EPS is designed strictly for a square-bore carb and posts a bit better hp and torque numbers over the standard Performer.

1962larksedan
07-04-2012, 03:00 PM
Since your motor is a 283 Chevy V8; I'd go with a stock 4 barrel intake and Quadrajet Carb along with an HEI ignition. Needless to say; have dual exhausts installed as well.

SN-60
07-04-2012, 03:12 PM
I like Gunslinger's idea if You have the extra $$$, but 1962larksedan's idea will also work very well if You want to keep it 'low bucks' Good luck!

STUDEdudeEYT404
07-04-2012, 03:22 PM
thanks guys I definitely appreciate the input!!
@ gunslinger: I was looking at the edelbrock carbs. what are your thoughts as far as performer series vs. thunder series? and you say 500cfm with electric choke will give me all the power I need?

STUDEdudeEYT404
07-04-2012, 03:23 PM
I'll definately look into both options and see what im looking at price wise

Mike Van Veghten
07-04-2012, 03:59 PM
Also what gunslinger said..

And sure, the Thunder Series is simillar to the Preformer, but more adjustable. If you are into the little details..and spending a few more bucks, the Thunder Series carb. is a very good option.

Mike

P.s. - The whole performer series parts list has been well thought out. If you feel the need to up the power more...the performer cam and cylinder heads are a good option without breaking the bank..so to speak.

StudeRich
07-04-2012, 04:06 PM
Since your motor is a 283 Chevy V8; I'd go with a stock 4 barrel intake and Quadrajet Carb along with an HEI ignition. Needless to say; have dual exhausts installed as well.

I would never recommend a GM Rochester Quadra-toilet, they never were much good.
The huge secondaries are for much larger engines than a 283 and IMO would require a GM 350/400 Manifold.

rusty65
07-04-2012, 04:56 PM
I can tell you what I got for my Daytona;Edelbrock intake #2101 and 500cfm electric choke carb #1403.Honestly, if I had to do it over I probably wouldn't.You have to hassle with fabricating a bracket to accompany the throttle valve cable and adjusting it correctly.Also, my Edelbrock needed a rebuild after maybe 6,000 miles of driving! I've had it on the car for about 4 years and the factory warranty only covers the first year.
I don't know if you want a 'screamer' or a 'cruiser' (small c), but if you want the latter I would just have the 2bbl rebuilt and go over the rest of your fuel system with a fine tooth comb.The HEI setup along with dual exhaust sounds like a home run;I'd do that before I'd do anything else.

***Standard disclaimer:Your money, your ride! This is just one CASO's opinion.***

Let us know what you wind up doing. Good luck!!

gohdes
07-04-2012, 06:01 PM
I can tell you what I got for my Daytona;Edelbrock intake #2101 and 500cfm electric choke carb #1403.Honestly, if I had to do it over I probably wouldn't. I've had it on the car for about 4 years and the factory warranty only covers the first year.

***Standard disclaimer:Your money, your ride! This is just one CASO's opinion.***

Let us know what you wind up doing. Good luck!!

I would mostly agree with this.
2 years ago, I put a 1403 edelbrock on my 60 lark convert, and it had a stuck metering rod. By the time I discovered it, it ruined my engine rebuild - spun a bearing, and scored the crank. I figured out something was definitely wrong the day I left for Springfield 2011, but thought I could fix it when I got there. It sat on the car for a year and half while other things were being done before I really had a chance to test it before the meet, hence no warranty. I wrote a letter to edelbrock, but have heard nothing. I'm not holding my breath for a response either.

1962larksedan
07-04-2012, 06:11 PM
I would never recommend a GM Rochester Quadra-toilet, they never were much good.
The huge secondaries are for much larger engines than a 283 and IMO would require a GM 350/400 Manifold.

The air valve on the secondaries can be tightened (higher spring tension) so a smaller V8 doesn't bog under hard acceleration. Piece of trivia here: the 1966-69 Pontiac 230 OHC Six had a 4 barrel (Q-jet) option.

1962larksedan
07-04-2012, 06:13 PM
I can tell you what I got for my Daytona;Edelbrock intake #2101 and 500cfm electric choke carb #1403.Honestly, if I had to do it over I probably wouldn't.You have to hassle with fabricating a bracket to accompany the throttle valve cable and adjusting it correctly.Also, my Edelbrock needed a rebuild after maybe 6,000 miles of driving! I've had it on the car for about 4 years and the factory warranty only covers the first year.
I don't know if you want a 'screamer' or a 'cruiser' (small c), but if you want the latter I would just have the 2bbl rebuilt and go over the rest of your fuel system with a fine tooth comb.The HEI setup along with dual exhaust sounds like a home run;I'd do that before I'd do anything else.

***Standard disclaimer:Your money, your ride! This is just one CASO's opinion.***

Let us know what you wind up doing. Good luck!!

My Lark 350 still has it's factory 2V carb but with HEI and dual exhausts. :)

Gunslinger
07-04-2012, 06:15 PM
thanks guys I definitely appreciate the input!!
@ gunslinger: I was looking at the edelbrock carbs. what are your thoughts as far as performer series vs. thunder series? and you say 500cfm with electric choke will give me all the power I need?

Stick with the Performer series...the adjustable secondaries aren't really worth it on a non-performance street car unless you feel the need to spend more money.

500 cfm will give you all the air the engine can handle. Going to a 600 won't gain you anything...the engine will run out of capacity to use that much air before the carb will be able to deliver 600 cfm. If a 500 is more than good enough for a 289 "R" engine, the same goes for the 283 small block. Having too much air capacity might even cause low end stumble...and again...the engine will run out of rpm's before the carb gets to it's maximum airflow.

Dick Steinkamp
07-04-2012, 08:13 PM
The Edelbrock or QuadraJet are good options. The Quadrajet secondaries are vacuum operated and come in only as much as the engine can take. I had one on this 305 in a Lark...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sYaN0lYzfE&feature=g-upl

Absolutely no bog.

But....if it was me....I'd be looking for a swap meet Rochester 4 jet and matching intake. Inexpensive, great carb, easy to rebuild, sized right for a 283, period correct.

STUDEdudeEYT404
07-04-2012, 08:24 PM
Thanks guys. AwesOme!!!! Sooo much info lol
I'm definitely gonna do sOme more research before anything but I will let you know what happens.
The standard 2barrel is still running strong but if I try to "gun it" it just doesn't deliver. I'm not looking to mAke it a "sCreamer" but I would like to make it a sleeper lol

Don Jeffers
07-04-2012, 08:34 PM
I like the WCFB Carter four barrel from a 283 Chevy, a newer HEI ignition system and dual exhausts, possible with headers for looks and efficiency or a nice set of manifolds.

The WCFB is well sized for the 283. I've found them to be reasonably priced on eBay, needing a rebuild of course. You could probably find a complete Chevy 283 WCFB four barrel carb and manifold on eBay.

Maybe a rebuilt carb can be found from a supplier or a Stude carburetor rebuilder, as Stude used the WCFB on the late '50s 289 Studes.

And then again, there's a lot to be said for using a simple two barrel under a nice looking air cleaner.

The Edelbrock AFB style carb is easily available, but are often jetted a bit rich for mild and small engines. I think a 500 cfm carb is oversized for a 283. Under 400 cfm would be more like it for a grocery getter 283.

JWIWD

1962larksedan
07-04-2012, 09:08 PM
Another option would be factory Chevy TBI for a 305; it's 10 PSI fuel injection and uses an electronic distributor. They were used from 1987-95 on pretty much any 305 (1989-93 GM cars and some trucks are a rich source of those). Although a 350 setup should work just fine. :)

Don Jeffers
07-04-2012, 09:55 PM
Another option would be factory Chevy TBI for a 305; it's 10 PSI fuel injection and uses an electronic distributor.

Another good choice! We took a 92 Chevy 305 pickup, automatic with lockup torque converter, round trip from WV to Atlanta and back on I-64 and I-75 to pick up an engine. Ran mostly 70 mph and got a surprising 21+ mpg.

candbstudebakers
07-06-2012, 08:20 AM
the cheapest would to get the original cast iron manifold and a 4 bld. Rochester carb same as used on all original 283 engines, easy to rebuild and matched for the engine, but since they were not used on the 65-66 Studebaker engines some brackets are needed for the linkage and kick down, also then a stock style air cleaner can be used and easy to come by at a swap meet, in fact you could get everything there at once. still get kits for them also, duel exhaust on the 65-66 is a little tricky but can be done, back in the 60's my sister in law has a 65 Chevy with the 250 hp 327 and the Rochester 4 bld I swapped it out for a stock 2 bld. and the car had more get up and go but not top end, I put her 4 bld on my 65 Daytona and worked better there. just don't over size every thing.

gordr
07-06-2012, 09:19 AM
I'll cast a vote for the Edelbrock 1403 and a suitable manifold. Nothing like a new carburetor, with a warranty on it. And Edelbrock carbs and parts can be found at most big speed shops. And you know that new production carbs will probably be OK with the crap they put in modern fuel.

Gunslinger
07-06-2012, 11:55 AM
I agree that finding an iron intake and original carb is probably the cheapest way to go...maybe. Given equal design, the only thing you'll gain with an aluminum intake is less weight and somewhat better heat dissipation. The air doesn't care whether it's passing through iron or aluminum passages. What you will gain with a new aluminum intake is modern design of the runners are they're more efficient than most iron takes from that era...unless you find a contemporary Corvette intake which are in demand by Corvette restorers. You can save a bit of money on an aluminum intake by buying Summit Racing's own model or a Professional Products intake which is a Chinese made clone of the Edelbrock. Excuse me, but I would stick with a real Edelbrock as I don't trust many, if not most, Chinese made parts...especially if they're imitations of the real thing.

As far as carburetors, original carbs are fine...if you can find a good, rebuildable one. In the end it may well cost you more for a good core and having a rebuilder go over it than simply buying a new carburetor. Quadrajets, while an outstanding carburetor for street use, haven't been made in many years by GM, and good cores can be pricey and very tunable for most any engine...by someone who knows them and understands them. Edelbrock made their own version of the Quadrajet, but they were expensive and no longer made. Many Quadrajet cores are in big demand by restorers, depending on its application, and are not cheap to buy.

I still think an Edelbrock 500cfm with electric choke, Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS intake will do everything the car will need outside of serious cylinder head mods or new heads, a new cam, headers, etc. Even a stock Delco points distributor is not a bad thing...simple, reliable and a decades long proven track record. An HEI is great, as are so many aftermarket electronic distributors. It all comes down to how much you care to spend. There is a point of diminishing returns, though. KISS...Keep It Simple, Stupid! No insult intended.

Dick Steinkamp
07-06-2012, 01:54 PM
I agree that finding an iron intake and original carb is probably the cheapest way to go...maybe. Given equal design, the only thing you'll gain with an aluminum intake is less weight and somewhat better heat dissipation. The air doesn't care whether it's passing through iron or aluminum passages. What you will gain with a new aluminum intake is modern design of the runners are they're more efficient than most iron takes from that era...unless you find a contemporary Corvette intake which are in demand by Corvette restorers. You can save a bit of money on an aluminum intake by buying Summit Racing's own model or a Professional Products intake which is a Chinese made clone of the Edelbrock. Excuse me, but I would stick with a real Edelbrock as I don't trust many, if not most, Chinese made parts...especially if they're imitations of the real thing.

As far as carburetors, original carbs are fine...if you can find a good, rebuildable one. In the end it may well cost you more for a good core and having a rebuilder go over it than simply buying a new carburetor. Quadrajets, while an outstanding carburetor for street use, haven't been made in many years by GM, and good cores can be pricey and very tunable for most any engine...by someone who knows them and understands them. Edelbrock made their own version of the Quadrajet, but they were expensive and no longer made. Many Quadrajet cores are in big demand by restorers, depending on its application, and are not cheap to buy.

I still think an Edelbrock 500cfm with electric choke, Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS intake will do everything the car will need outside of serious cylinder head mods or new heads, a new cam, headers, etc. Even a stock Delco points distributor is not a bad thing...simple, reliable and a decades long proven track record. An HEI is great, as are so many aftermarket electronic distributors. It all comes down to how much you care to spend. There is a point of diminishing returns, though. KISS...Keep It Simple, Stupid! No insult intended.

I agree with all this, but....being a CASO, I have a hard time with that kind of money for a few more HP that you may or may not feel, that won't add anything to the resale value (not that that is always important).

From Summit, a 1403 is $317.95. A Performer intake is $139.95...$458 total. Then, since the manifold doesn't have provisions for the oil fill and breather, you would have to get some different valve covers with breathers and filler, and rig up some different sort of PCV system. Then wire the electric choke and get an aftermarket air cleaner since a stock 4 barrel one only fits the smaller base...like a WCFB or Rochester 4 jet). None of this is super difficult, just time and money...plus you end up with sort of a hot rod look under the hood and sort of a stock look...unless you go all the way with the hot rod look. (again, not that that is important to everyone).

Hot rod look (305 in a 64 Lark)...

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/63%20daytona/KC002.jpg




Stock look (65 Impala 327 Rochester 4 jet...of course the Stude would be all black)...

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2779/4296122521_f210083c88_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99691157@N00/4296122521/)
finished 070 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99691157@N00/4296122521/) by Dick Steinkamp (http://www.flickr.com/people/99691157@N00/), on Flickr

wittsend
07-07-2012, 11:48 PM
I'm not sure how tight your funds are, but if you're patient you can source good deals. In So.Cal. we have Pick A Part yards that monthly have 50% off sales. We still get "dinged" with state tax, environmental surcharge and core charges so 50% off is sort of distorted. That said, the "out the door price" for my Performer intake was about $23 and my newer Carter competition series AFB (Edelbrock by a different name) just about the same $23. If you're gentle with the Edelbrock's you can take them apart and put then back again with the same gaskets. The only thing I have replaced on the three I own is the accelerator pump. A bit pricey at $14 (considering what I pay for the carburetors) but often needed.

I also found a rebuilt distributor with a Pertonix electronic ignition module on Ebay - shipped for $24. I left the Ram Horn exhaust, but plumbed it to a 2-3/4" single exhaust through a huge 22" Pro-Flow muffler. The muffler and tail pipe cost me $25 at U-Pull-Parts. I hated spending $42 for 10 feet of 2-3/4" pipe to finish the job, but I had to. BTW this is all connecting to my 66,000 mile Corvette L-98 engine I paid $171 for on Ebay. And, the actual cost was only $12 when you factor in selling the 283 engine for $159. I'm just finishing up my 700R4 swap that I estimate will cost about $150 for EVERYTHING. That number will drop once I sell the water cooled BW tranny with the Chevrolet bellhousing.

I tell you this because if I was looking at $450 to swap the manifold and carburetor my wallet would suck shut. Hey, if one has the money it is theirs to spend. I just want to encourage those who don't have the cash that there are other options. It takes a lot of time (over money), but that is why I consider it a hobby.

Lastly there are a lot of 80's Chevrolet's (and other GM cars with Chevy engines) that came with aluminum manifolds from the factory. In the junk yard (at least here) they are all the same price. Just be careful about the bolt angle ('86 and later won't work on a 283 with stock heads).

Tom