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  • Fuel System: Fuel Pump dilemma

    Alright so I was suppose to be running the stude in the 4th of July parade. It was running kind of hot so I spent all previous day installing a electrical fan on a switch to make sure I don't overheat from just doing the 2mph [1964 cruiser 289]. Hook everything together and warming up the engine to open up the thermostat so I can add more coolant to the system and I smell fuel... normal for my car but a lot more than usual.

    Took it all apart thinking it was just the gasket but the diaphragm is ripped and torn like all the way around.

    I tried to cross the part part # that I found on the side of it and on the inside but it came up with nothing at all.


    Studebaker international lists #1564651 but it has no picture of whats included in the rebuilt kit and has no picture... and it is also $22.50 compared to all the other kits at $60.

    Even looking at the whole fuel pump on the international site they all have pictures of pumps with the short stubby arm while I've got this giant
    I guess it might just be a generic picture but my pump is fine internally just the diaphragm needs to be replaced.

    Any suggestions an alternate part # that I could get from local FLAPS? Already went thru all of AutoZones fuel pumps one by one [use to work there so they let me spend an hour in the backroom trying to find something close] .... very frustrating day


    EDIT:

    Also what is the screw on the bottom for? I could not find anything about it and I don't want to mess with it incase it's an adjustment for something.
    Last edited by RadCruiser; 07-04-2012, 08:34 AM.

  • #2
    Look up M3155 Pump on this page...
    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

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    • #3
      To: RadCruiser,------ Parades in a collector vehicle on hot days really can be a bit scary, can't they? That screw at bottom of pump just holds the bowl cover on....no adjustments to be concerned about.
      Good luck!

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      • #4
        I went thru the interchange before your post to try to find a different part # but I cannot even find a section for pump on that page. And the M3155 number just comes up as a brake master cylinder on any flaps site.

        SN-60 It was suppose to be my first ever parade and I didn't make it. Ah so it's just a screw. Thanks good to know.

        EDIT:
        Tried to find any cross reference to M3155S accord to the interchange but to no avail either. bleh
        Last edited by RadCruiser; 07-04-2012, 10:21 AM.

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        • #5
          I have a NAPA # m2211.[61 Hawk 289] lasted a short time before it started leaking,and have read about many problem with these old rebuilds.[worn housings being fitted with new parts?]
          Oglesby,Il.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 52hawk View Post
            I have a NAPA # m2211.[61 Hawk 289] lasted a short time before it started leaking,and have read about many problem with these old rebuilds.[worn housings being fitted with new parts?]
            Thanks for your reply 52 Hawk. That arm definitely looks a lot closer to the right bend.

            But it looks like it doesn't have that first bend in the arm like mine does. I'm not sure if that has to be there to clear something.... or if maybe i can even get the diaphragm out of that one to replace mine.

            I don't get why Studebaker International lists the 62-64 car pump rebuild kit differently. I sent Jim and message and maybe he will clear things up.

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            • #7
              That is the same pump I have on my 289 and I just rebuilt it with parts from Then and Now. Here is the website, http://www.maritimedragracing.com/an...rts_cellar.htm. They are very knowledgeable when it comes to fuel pumps. You will need the number off the flange to make sure you get the right kit.

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              • #8
                Thank you 52Commander. I sent them an email as well. Let's see what they can come up with.

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                • #9
                  The model number you are looking for is not the Carter Part Number, but it is the one "The Cellar" needs to send the correct Kit, it's the Carter model number.
                  It is stamped INTO the edge of the mounting flange. You need the 1553024 Kit for the '62-'64 Lark Type Pump with the Metal Filter Bowl.

                  Be aware that the Pump in Post #6 is a Carter replacement (copy of the old AC Pump) the Airtex Pump replacement you will get if you order it for a '55-'64 Stude. non-R Series V-8. from SOME Studebaker Vendors to most eyes looks the same.

                  Those would be the only new replacements still available, and the Airtex is the one talked about here every 2-3 weeks about it's Oil leakage problems and reliability, but they are all we have that is new and in spite of the lever differences, they do WORK.
                  The Pics in S.I.'s Catalog are mearly generic, and happen to be 6 Cyl. Units.

                  Edit: Well OK I stand corrected, I am not a experienced Casting expert like Jerry, just a Studebaker Vendor who sells both the Airtex and the Carter boxed Pumps and to me and our supplier they are "the same", obviously NOT!

                  I only sell the Airtex when someone won't pay for the Carter and I can't convince them that the best method is to rebuild their original "Real" Carter design pump, instead of the "AC copy" type.
                  Last edited by StudeRich; 07-04-2012, 02:05 PM.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                  SDC Member Since 1967

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                  • #10
                    Post #6 is NOT the Airtex 4227 Pump. It is the re-boxed pump - yes, with a 4227 tag on it - that you get when you buy a Carter pump. I sell lots of V-8 fuel pumps, and for the last five years have only sold the "Carter" pumps and have not had a single return for pump failure. I quit selling Airtex pumps five years ago since I couldn't trust them fresh out of the box, and as a Studebaker parts dealer wanted to sell something I could trust.
                    Now - as far as identifying an Airtex pump...The body is die cast zinc, while the re-box in the Carter box is die cast aluminum. Note the casting parting line at the gasket mounting surface... the non-Airtex pump has the parting line stepped back, allowing a radius at the corner of the mounting surface. The Airtex pump has the casting parting line at the corner, thus leaving a sharp corner. I retired after 45 years as an engineer in the aluminum and zinc die casting industry, plus plastic injection molding, so these small diferences jump out at me.
                    Also notice the non-Airtex pump pictured has the pivot shaft staked over a washer, and the far side of the pin is headed - not just a staight pin. This is another HUGE improvement over the Airtex pumps we have growth to dislike over the years.

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                    • #11
                      Yep! Airtex 4227's are notorious 'oil leakers' (You'll swear it's leaking oil from the front seal!)

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                      • #12
                        Thank you everyone for all the helpful info.

                        StudeRich- Looking at the 1553024 the diaphragm looks the same so I will be ordering that one shortly.

                        BTW. How do you take that spring part with the diaphragm out? doesn't seem like anything is holding it up in the upper portion of the pump... Is it just pressed in there? Maybe there's instructions that come with the kit. I'll save the rest of the questions till I see it. Thanks again everyone I was really panicking there for a while not being able to find anything for it.

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                        • #13
                          For those inclined to run a mechanical FP, I understand sevefral of the vendors are selling a modified MOPAR 318 pump that interchanges. It it one of the numbers above?

                          Joe

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                          • #14
                            Studebakercenteroforegon, do you have a website or way to contact you about ordering parts? I am still trying to find a pump for my '53 Commander.
                            dulymiller@gmail.com

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                            • #15
                              Dave Thibault can rebuild yours or sell you the exact kit you need. I had him rebuild mine last month. Very fast turn around and I drove it to Vermont and back so I guess he did alright.

                              STUDEBAKER PARTS AND SERVICES Dave Thibault 13 Nick Lane Maynard Maine 01754 (978) 897-3158

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