Could you guys give me a range for a fair offer on a '58 Packard Hawk w/ 35,000 miles? It has a small blemish on the hood, master cylinder problems, and a damaged ignition switch. There's a small amount of rust at the bottom of the driver side door. It's sitting on the original rubber. I can't get any more information at this time so I figure I need a range from worst to best. Wish me luck.
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Value depends mainly on cond. of body and presence of Pack Hawk specific parts in good cond. My guess(not offer!) is mid teens, but the market for builders in not what it was a few years ago. Rust issues and missing components will greatly diminish value & saleability. Here is a really nice, complete, 50K mi, solid example which is mostly original, with newer decent, but not show, paint w/no pits, damage, blisters, bubbles, etc.; great chrome, solid lower body, new WWW radials, and new Phantom interior, closing tonite on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MESE:IT
It will probably close in the low to mid 30's in this market, but nice Pack Hawks seldom appear, so could go higher, considering that fully restored examples bring more than twice as much.
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Go for it. The '58 PH standard shift is one of the few S-Ps still on my bucket list.
As you well know, the Packard Hawk is one of the rarest and most unique of all Studes, so it's not like you can go down the street and comparison shop.
Condition is everything on these, because there are so many one-year-only parts, as well as the most expensive of all Stude interiors to restore.
The little problems you mention are likely to be the least of your worries. Long experience says if there is a small amount of rust at the bottom of the driver side door, the floors and the front fenders at the door seam are in worse condition.
Having said that, a complete, low miles car is the ideal restoration candidate.
Having said that, the cost of a quality professional restoration usually exceeds the current value of a good older restoration.
Wish me luck.
jack vinesPackardV8
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This rig is of the "survivor" category. Everything is original from the dealership. I'm not even sure if I can pry this car from its current owner. It's an "I'm going to fix the ignition and brakes someday" situation. If someone doesn't get to purchase the car it will probably rot where it sits. I think it's in excellent condition if the engine is functional.
Jeb
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If the engine is running and the interior is still in excellent condition (unlikely) then I would say mid-teens. If neither of these are the case, I think that $10K would be a stretch. As others have stated, it takes more to bring one of these back than they are worth when finished.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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Originally posted by aarrggh View Postpics required ! !
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Originally posted by Jeb View PostThis rig is of the "survivor" category. Everything is original from the dealership. I'm not even sure if I can pry this car from its current owner. It's an "I'm going to fix the ignition and brakes someday" situation. If someone doesn't get to purchase the car it will probably rot where it sits. I think it's in excellent condition if the engine is functional.
Jebsigpic
In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.
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Originally posted by Jeb View PostThis rig is of the "survivor" category. Everything is original from the dealership. I'm not even sure if I can pry this car from its current owner. It's an "I'm going to fix the ignition and brakes someday" situation. If someone doesn't get to purchase the car it will probably rot where it sits. I think it's in excellent condition if the engine is functional.
Jeb
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I would say on the "what's it worh". I would look at it two ways. Is it a investment? Is it something I really want? If it's an investment, you might consider what the gang here thinks. If it's a bucket list item, then it all depends on what you can afford, and your personal "wow" factor for it. I paid twice what most people would have for my 53. It is a bucket list item for me, and I don't care what it's worth to someone else.
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I try to eliminate the word "fair" from my vocabulary as much as possible. It is an obscene four letter word, too often, the subjective concept of "fair" requires someone else to be punished or mistreated in its judgement and application. I know that in today's world...this seems kinda corny, but the best policy ever given on the subject is "do unto others as you would have them do unto you."
In that manner, "fair" usually results without being forced.
As to the value of the car, it is a negotiation between you and the owner. Years ago, I recall a "comer & goer" member of our club. (Comer and goer is someone who stumbles into our membership with unrealistic expectations, gets discouraged, and leaves when things don't go their way) He confided to me that his feelings were very hurt when he overheard another person talk about turning down purchasing his car from the previous owner. Turns out that the person refused to buy the car when it was offered at a price way below what the current owner ended up paying for it. My response was that if he was happy to buy the car, had the money, and as mature responsible adults...everybody should be happy with the deal.
When I buy a car, I try not to discuss details of "the deal" too much with my friends. When I do brag about my "good deal skills" I usually have "braggers remorse" because in the back of my mind I am thinking that I might have to attempt to sell that item to the very guy I just told how cheap it was. How many of you really know how much the merchant paid for what you are buying every day?
If you and the current owner come to an agreement...grab it and don't look back!John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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