Electrical: Cable Length

[Lou Van Anne]

Can anyone tell me the correct length of the cable running from the starter switch to the starter for a 52 V8?

[41 Frank]

Lou, if you don't get a response in the next day or so give me shout and I will run down to my storage and measure my 52 cable for you.

[Lou Van Anne]

Frank, Thanks for your offer. I don't want you to go thru the effort of crawling under the car and removing the cable to measure it, as that is what I was trying to avoid doing myself...unless you have a cable is laying free someplace, then please do. Since we both have the same '52 model, perhaps you might offer some advice. The car has always been slow to start...starter will engage weakly and slowly and then almost "die" but will crank again and usually, after what sounds to be stressfull effort, finally start. I've been told to check the ground, which I have done. I noted that it has the narrower cable as use on 12 volt systems so I'm thinking next to replace the cables to what I believe would be called 2 or 3 guage. Hence, if I knew the correct lenght, I could kill two birds with one stone...

[kurtruk]

Really should go with 0 or 00 gauge wire. NAPA will sell bulk lengths, and maybe terminal ends, but you don't get a great connection with those. We have a place in Fresno, Jorgensen Batteries, that will make it while you wait. Professionally crimped on terminals, and all for about the price of the copper wire used. Had mine made out of welding cable.

[41 Frank]

Lou, I guess I would have as much of a problem measuring the cable on my car than as you, so not any easier than you doing it. Before doing anything else install the proper gauge cables. Chances are that will cure the problem. Other than bad connections in the starting system, wrong gauge cables are the primary cause of hard starting in a 6 volt system. My 52 cranks almost like a 12 volt system. Only when the engine is extrememely hot after a "hot soak" does it labor some, but it never fails to start.

Frank, Thanks for your offer. I don't want you to go thru the effort of crawling under the car and removing the cable to measure it, as that is what I was trying to avoid doing myself...unless you have a cable is laying free someplace, then please do. Since we both have the same '52 model, perhaps you might offer some advice. The car has always been slow to start...starter will engage weakly and slowly and then almost "die" but will crank again and usually, after what sounds to be stressfull effort, finally start. I've been told to check the ground, which I have done. I noted that it has the narrower cable as use on 12 volt systems so I'm thinking next to replace the cables to what I believe would be called 2 or 3 guage. Hence, if I knew the correct lenght, I could kill two birds with one stone...

[Lou Van Anne]

Thanks to all for your sugestions. I have solved my problem by replacing the smaller battery cables with the thicker ones and by replacing what I found out to be a bad battery. Now she starts right up!

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

Just to clarify.
#2 or #3 cable is much too small for a 6 volt system.
#1/0 [0] is OK. #2/0 [00] [bigger] is better.
The best battery cable ends are either soldered or pressure crimped onto the cable.
If you decide to move the battery to the trunk-- #3/0 [000] or bigger [#4/0 -- 0000] is required.

[brian6373]

I just made up cables for my manlift, I got ought cable from the welding suppy and the ends from NAPA. I soldered the ends on, but was told that if you solder the end you should use a sealing tape so that the cable won't corrode inside the insulation. I paid about 25 bucks for nine feet of cable. Don't use the cheap clamp ends unless you want a lot more problems.

[Dan Timberlake]

A voltage drop measurement when cranking would likely make it clear whether one or both cables are undersized, damaged or if a terminal or connection just needs cleaning. just yesterday A frustrated fellow on a Volvo list was going to send his newly purchased rebuilt AC compressor back as defective. Folks (not me) suggested there might be a ground problem, which he kind of dismissed because it was a newly cleaned and painted engine and he assembled all the wiring himself. Eventually (Unfortunately) without a single diagnostic voltage drop test he added a second ground lead cable and he reported it instantly worked fine.