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63Avanti
12-24-2005, 07:40 AM
Ok,

thanks!
I have now confirmed that I have a 4.11.
If I were drag racing with James Dean, I would be thrilled.


But this will be a highway cruiser...

What are the readily available lower gear ratios?
What are the sources?

thanks!
terry


Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

DEEPNHOCK
12-24-2005, 08:11 AM
Well Terry,
You are in luck because this differential is still being built for many applications, so gears and stuff are available.
There is a carrier case change at 3.73 (or 3.93?) to keep the ring gear near the pinion...
2.73 3.07 3.31 3.54 3.73 3.93 4.10 4.27 4.88 5.30 5.38 (according to the gear suppliers website)

With an overdrive transmission, you could possible go as low (high numerically) as a 4.10, but for realistic cruising with a 1:1 trans final drive ratio (4th in a 4 speed, Drive in an a/t) you'd probably want to stick to a 3.54 max and more like a 3.31 if you are rural.
Spinning a 259 or 289 to 3300 rpm on the expressway for hours on end gets a little annoying.
There are a lot of Stude vendors that can help you out:
http://stude.com/vendor.htm
http://k.webring.com/hub?sid=&ring=studebaker&id=&list
Or try doing a web search on Google.. Put in Dana 44 gears
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]

[quote]Originally posted by tsterkel

Ok,
thanks!
I have now confirmed that I have a 4.11.
If I were drag racing with James Dean, I would be thrilled.
But this will be a highway cruiser...
What are the readily available lower gear ratios?
What are the sources?
thanks!
terry


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
http://community.webshots.com/photo/42559113/426827941Lsvfrz
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

52hawk
12-24-2005, 09:34 AM
Sasco has recently had a 3:31 and 3:54 on e-bay for $50. Don't know if they've sold or not. Call them. The 3:31 would probably be your best bet for highway,but as Deepnhockk says,that will require a different carrier too.

Home of the Almostahawk

Roscomacaw
12-24-2005, 01:30 PM
The 3.54 is a good compromise gearset for a 1/1 final drive tranny. Gives decent getaway and not so bad hiway cruising.;) As has been said tho, you'll need a differrent "carrier" for 3.73 and numerically lower gearsets.
It would be nice to just find a whole rear axle you could just swap. Thing is, the Avanti rear has the "ears" to accept the traction bars. (not that they couldn't be transferred , of course.[}:)])

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Swifster
12-24-2005, 01:37 PM
Hey Terry,

I'd trade you my rear axle assembly straight up for yours :D.
I have the assembly you need for the lower numerical gear sets and the R&P in it is a 3.07 with an open diff.

Let me know if you're interested.

Tom

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Dick Steinkamp
12-24-2005, 02:39 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

The 3.54 is a good compromise gearset for a 1/1 final drive tranny.


I have a 3:54 in my '54 with a close ratio (2.20) low T-10. It's a little difficult to launch gracefully with the high low gear (sounds like an oxymoron:D) and the 3:54. It really needs 3.93's or better for that trany. OTOH, 3:54's on the highway isn't the best set up...way too high revs compared to today's cars. Needs 3.07's. With that said, Biggs is right (again[^]). 3.54 is probably the best compromise...but it certainly is a compromise.

If you have an automatic and want to keep it stock and your ONLY concern is highway, take up Tom's offer. If you don't want to keep it stock, take up Tom's offer AND install either a TH700R4 or a TH2004R. If you have a close ratio 4 speed, keep the 4:11's and focus on street racing[}:)]:D. If you have a wide ratio 4 speed (2.54 low), 3.31's are about it for a decent launch and 3.54's would be better. If you have a 4 speed but don't care about originality, install one of the newer 5 (or 6) speed trans. There is info on the SDC site on this conversion and several threads on this forum devoted to these swaps...or install a Hone or Gear Vendors OD behind the 4 speed.

-Dick-

63Avanti
12-24-2005, 05:47 PM
Just to be clear.

* 289 R2 Avanti
* Standard 4 transmission, 4th is 1:1
* wish to stay stock
* Want to do "Easy Rider" with Peter Fonda, and not all that
interested in "Rebel without a Cause" with James Dean,
so I am looking for low RPMs at 75 MPH.
* I am assuming that that is 3.31, comments please

Question, comments please:

I see this on eBay:
Up for auction is a slightly used 3.31 ratio gear set (Ring and Pinion) for a Dana 44 diffirential. Tooth count is 43-13 and they are Dana Spicer brand. They have almost no wear and are in excellent shape

Thanks!

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

DEEPNHOCK
12-24-2005, 06:03 PM
Man,
I am pining over that Gear Vendors OD for my pickup...
Imagine turning your 3 speed auto trans into an o/d 6 speed...
They have put a great electronics package in that to allow you to do gear splitting (Low 1, high, 1, low 2, high 2, low 3, o'd 3)..
And I wouldn't have to re-engineer anything....Driveshaft work and some minor fitment...
Sure, $2700 is steep, but so is a 200R4, or 700R4 swap..
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp
<snip>
or install a Hone or Gear Vendors OD behind the 4 speed.
-Dick-


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
http://community.webshots.com/photo/42559113/426827941Lsvfrz
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Dick Steinkamp
12-24-2005, 07:05 PM
quote:Originally posted by tsterkel

Just to be clear.

* 289 R2 Avanti
* Standard 4 transmission, 4th is 1:1
* wish to stay stock
* Want to do "Easy Rider" with Peter Fonda, and not all that
interested in "Rebel without a Cause" with James Dean,
so I am looking for low RPMs at 75 MPH.
* I am assuming that that is 3.31, comments please

Question, comments please:

I see this on eBay:
Up for auction is a slightly used 3.31 ratio gear set (Ring and Pinion) for a Dana 44 diffirential. Tooth count is 43-13 and they are Dana Spicer brand. They have almost no wear and are in excellent shape

Thanks!

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi


Terry,
Determine if you have a close ratio T-10 4 speed (2.20 low) or a wide ratio (2.54 low). With a close ratio, you will not get the car moving too easily with the 3.31 rear end. You'll go through a lot of clutches. The wide ratio with a 3.31 ratio is "marginal" IMHO. It will be easier to get it rolling, but not great. With a 3.31 in top gear, you will be turning about 3200 RPM's...hardly the low RPM's I think you are looking for. Take your current combination out on the highway in high gear to 3200 RPM's. If that's OK with you, then go for the 3.31's. If not, rethink what you want (and/or need). An R2 Avanti with a 4 speed and a 4.11 rear end is pretty gosh durn neat :D. (It would be the combination of my choice). Just not the greatest highway cruiser. People that wanted highway cruiser Avanti's in 63-64 bought automatic R1's with 3.07's.

-Dick-

Stude4x4
12-24-2005, 09:24 PM
Terry, figure out what you want your rpm range to be at 75 mph. Take the gear ratio and multiply it by 75 mph and 336. Then divide that number by your tire size. The formula looks like this: Ex: (4.1 x 75 x 336)/(31)=3332 rpms. (This is my gear ratio for my pickup)
Right now with our R2 Avanti with the T-10 and 3.31 I can easily start out in 2nd gear, sometimes 3rd and maybe even in 4th. I have done it before. It does need an overdrive when on the highway and it could use a lower first gear.
Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4

63Avanti
12-25-2005, 07:33 AM
Just to be clear.

* 289 R2 Avanti
* Standard 4 transmission, 4th is 1:1
* wish to stay stock
* Want to do "Easy Rider" with Peter Fonda, and not all that
interested in "Rebel without a Cause" with James Dean,
so I am looking for low RPMs at 75 MPH.
* I am assuming that that is 3.31, comments please

Question, comments please:

I see this on eBay:
Up for auction is a slightly used 3.31 ratio gear set (Ring and Pinion) for a Dana 44 diffirential. Tooth count is 43-13 and they are Dana Spicer brand. They have almost no wear and are in excellent shape

Thanks!

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

N8N
12-25-2005, 07:51 AM
Lower number gearset will give you a lower RPM at the same cruising speed. i.e. a 3.31:1 will have lower RPM at the same speed than a 3.54:1. What is the "right" gearset for you depends on your personal preference, but it sounds to me like you probably want either a 3.07, 3.31, or 3.54.

Don't forget to change your speedo drive gear when you're done.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Swifster
12-25-2005, 09:53 AM
With gear ratios, I can only relate how my Daytona was equiped. The car had a 289 2-V, a wide ratio 4-speed, and an open 3.07 (Dana 44). While I don't know the 'clutch history' of the car, the odometer read at least 136K. That being the case, I can't imagine there is a big problem launching the car from a dead stop.

Don't take this as personal experience, but I've started coming across a few V-8 cars (non-R models) with 4-speeds and 3.07 or 3.31 final drives (shows, etc.). At 3200 lbs, it's not an extremely light car, but I can't imagine there was a problem getting the car moving.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

N8N
12-25-2005, 11:13 AM
I have a 3.31:1 with 4-speed (all factory) in my '62 Lark; with a 289 it is not too bad so I imagine it would also be OK with an Avanti engine. It does take a little more clutch slip to get going than a modern car with a deeper 1st gear but it is not too bad.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

CHAMP
12-25-2005, 12:39 PM
I PUT THE GEAR VENDORS O.D. IN MY T BUCKET AND DROPPED THE R.P.M.'S FROM THREE THOUSAND AT SIXTY M.P.H. TO TWENTY-THREE HUNDRED. REAL EASY TO INSTALL AND YOU GIVE THEM YOUR TIRE O.D. AND AXLE RATIO AND THEY'LL SHIP IT WITH RIGHT SPEEDO. GEAR. CHAMP:)

63Avanti
12-25-2005, 07:24 PM
What is SasCOs EBay ID?
I would like to set up an automatic notification when they list


quote:Originally posted by 52hawk

Sasco has recently had a 3:31 and 3:54 on e-bay for $50. Don't know if they've sold or not. Call them. The 3:31 would probably be your best bet for highway,but as Deepnhockk says,that will require a different carrier too.

Home of the Almostahawk


Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

studegary
12-25-2005, 09:28 PM
IIRC, you will need more than a ring and pinion set to make the conversion from a 4.11:1 to a 3.31:1.

Swifster
12-25-2005, 10:01 PM
Terry, I'll repeat the offer to trade rear end assemblies. Drum to drum. I'll pay shipping to you, you pay shipping to me.

I'm planning an all Stude performance project and a 4.11 assembly helps out considerably :) .

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

63Avanti
12-27-2005, 05:33 PM
Not ignoring you,
just attempting to figure out what I need to do.

Question,
what is an "open dif" and how does that relate to stock Avanti R2?

Question 2.
with a 3.07, do I start in 2nd insted of 1st? (3/4 race cam on that Supercharged)
thanks!
terry



quote:Originally posted by Swifster

Hey Terry,

I'd trade you my rear axle assembly straight up for yours :D.
I have the assembly you need for the lower numerical gear sets and the R&P in it is a 3.07 with an open diff.

Let me know if you're interested.

Tom

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)



Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

63Avanti
12-27-2005, 05:38 PM
Wow,
This is getting dense for this propeller hatted engineer...
how do I determine if I have a Narrow ratio or Wide ratio?


quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

[quote]Terry, Determine if you have a close ratio T-10 4 speed (2.20 low) or a wide ratio (2.54 low). With a close ratio, you will not get the car moving too easily with the 3.31 rear end. You'll go through a lot of clutches. The wide ratio with a 3.31 ratio is "marginal" IMHO. It will be easier to get it rolling, but not great. With a 3.31 in top gear, you will be turning about 3200 RPM's...hardly the low RPM's I think you are looking for. Take your current combination out on the highway in high gear to 3200 RPM's. If that's OK with you, then go for the 3.31's. If not, rethink what you want (and/or need). An R2 Avanti with a 4 speed and a 4.11 rear end is pretty gosh durn neat :D. (It would be the combination of my choice). Just not the greatest highway cruiser. People that wanted highway cruiser Avanti's in 63-64 bought automatic R1's with 3.07's. -Dick-

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

Stude4x4
12-27-2005, 06:27 PM
"Open diff" basically means that your axle shafts aren't locked together. It means you don't have a posi traction unit to make both wheels drive instead of just one. Twin traction was an option and the way to find out if you have it is to look at the diff cover and see if there is a special tag on there. Or you could jack up the rear end and spin one wheel and see if the other one spins the same direction. If it does then you have a limited slip differential. If you are going from 4.11's to 3.54 or 3.31 or 3.07 you will need to change the carrier as well as the ring and pinion. The case changes between 3.92 and 4.11. All dana 44 rear ends are the same. I mean that in a sense that all the carriers will interchange. Depending on if you have a 2.2 or 2.54 1st gear will determine what gear you can start out in. I will bet that you could start out in second no matter what gear ratio you put in your diff. Sorry for being long but I hope it clears things up.
Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4

N8N
12-27-2005, 06:43 PM
you won't be starting out in second gear in either box if you have a 3.07 rear I don't think... at least not comfortably...

easiest way to tell what ratio gearbox you have is to drop it and count the turns :/ there may be a way to tell from casting numbers etc. but if there is I don't know it.

If it is the stock tranny for the Avanti, it should be the wide ratio I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) which is actually good if you're thinking of going to 3.07s. IMHO I wouldn't want to go any lower than 3.31 with a close ratio box, launching would be just too difficult.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Dick Steinkamp
12-27-2005, 07:30 PM
quote:Originally posted by tsterkel

Question 2.
with a 3.07, do I start in 2nd insted of 1st? (3/4 race cam on that Supercharged)



Terry,
The lower the rear end ratio number, the better the highway cruising because you'll be turning relatively lower RPM's on the higway. On the other hand, a low rear end ratio number (like 3.07) means that it will be more difficult to get the car moving from a dead stop. With a 3.07 rear end, you'll probably find that you have to rev the motor a little more and slip the clutch a little more (in first gear) to get the car rolling (compared to your present 4.10's). The car will not feel as "quick".

Do you have some sort of aftermarket cam shaft in your R2? Do you know anything about it (brand name, duration, lift, overlap, etc.)?

-Dick-

Swifster
12-27-2005, 07:33 PM
I would agree on going to a 3.31 or 3.54. I brought up mine because the carriers are diiferent and mine would accept either of the gears mentioned. I don't think you'd want to keep the 3.07. Personally, I'd go with the 3.31's.

To be fair, I'd probably toss in some cash as I'm sure that 4.11 most likely has a Twin-Traction unit that mine does not. With the 4-speed, I'd want the TT. Gearing is what you make of it. To me the 4.11's are a good starting point, hense my interest. You can try the 3.07's and see how you like them. If you don't care for the off-line performance, move up to the 3.31's.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

StudeDave57
12-27-2005, 11:57 PM
SASCO does business on eBay as 'dolsr'...
[8D]

StudeDave
San Diego, Ca

'54 Commander 4dr
'57 Parkview (it's a 2dr wagon...)
'57 Commander 2dr
'57 Champion 2dr
'65 Cruiser

63Avanti
12-28-2005, 07:54 AM
Ok,
I have decided that I have the 4.11 from the 60mph/3000rpm and using the coversion pages on the previous thread where I asked how to tell. What Do I do to ensure that I am not stiffing you?



quote:Originally posted by Swifster

I would agree on going to a 3.31 or 3.54. I brought up mine because the carriers are diiferent and mine would accept either of the gears mentioned. I don't think you'd want to keep the 3.07. Personally, I'd go with the 3.31's.

To be fair, I'd probably toss in some cash as I'm sure that 4.11 most likely has a Twin-Traction unit that mine does not. With the 4-speed, I'd want the TT. Gearing is what you make of it. To me the 4.11's are a good starting point, hense my interest. You can try the 3.07's and see how you like them. If you don't care for the off-line performance, move up to the 3.31's.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)



Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

Swifster
12-28-2005, 10:56 AM
Is the tag still on the diff cover? If not, I'm a trusting sort. Worst case is that I end up with a similar axle if you are wrong, right? Mine still has the tag, so I know what I can send you.

Mine is still under the car, so I need to pull it out (brrrrrrr), but with the drive line out of the car, it shouldn't take long. I've never had the drums pulled, but the entire brake system on this car was supposed to have been rebuilt (new drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, etc.). If you're not sure what you have, a straight swap is fine. If yours is a driver, you can ship yours after mine gets there. I'm not doing much in the garage over the winter. I'm doing smaller stuff in the house.

Once I get the axle out, I can get it crated and shipped. I think due to the weight, they may need to be shipped truck freight. I have a few friends who run salvage yards and I'll check to see how they ship. As mentioned, I can pay for shipping to you, and you ship yours back to me.

My car was bought as a roller in 2003 out of Lake Tahoe. I can't verify condition as I've never had it apart or out of the car. But, it had lube in it and it still has the lube in it now. I'd have a good rear end shop as least inspect it before installing (honestly, I'll be doing the same thing with yours, better safe than sorry). It was garaged when I bought it, and it's been garaged since I've had it. It should be fine.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

63Avanti
12-28-2005, 02:45 PM
Time we took this off-line.
please e-mail me at 63Avanti@sterkel.org


quote:Originally posted by Swifster

Is the tag still on the diff cover? If not, I'm a trusting sort. Worst case is that I end up with a similar axle if you are wrong, right? Mine still has the tag, so I know what I can send you.

Mine is still under the car, so I need to pull it out (brrrrrrr), but with the drive line out of the car, it shouldn't take long. I've never had the drums pulled, but the entire brake system on this car was supposed to have been rebuilt (new drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, etc.). If you're not sure what you have, a straight swap is fine. If yours is a driver, you can ship yours after mine gets there. I'm not doing much in the garage over the winter. I'm doing smaller stuff in the house.

Once I get the axle out, I can get it crated and shipped. I think due to the weight, they may need to be shipped truck freight. I have a few friends who run salvage yards and I'll check to see how they ship. As mentioned, I can pay for shipping to you, and you ship yours back to me.

My car was bought as a roller in 2003 out of Lake Tahoe. I can't verify condition as I've never had it apart or out of the car. But, it had lube in it and it still has the lube in it now. I'd have a good rear end shop as least inspect it before installing (honestly, I'll be doing the same thing with yours, better safe than sorry). It was garaged when I bought it, and it's been garaged since I've had it. It should be fine.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)



Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
2003 VW Jetta TDI (Diesel) http://sterkel.org/tdi

Swifster
09-26-2006, 11:08 PM
Well, as this has popped up to the top again...So Terry, what did you do with the rear end? [}:)]:)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Lakeland, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

63Avanti
09-26-2006, 11:45 PM
in the other thread, could not work out the pulling and shipping issues last year. This year, see other thread, got a great DVD, and found the only axle person in a 3 county area who has lots of 3.07 Jeep sets leftover from people who could not live without 4.11 or 4.57. I am taking this to the other thread.


quote:Originally posted by Swifster

Well, as this has popped up to the top again...So Terry, what did you do with the rear end? [}:)]:)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Lakeland, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com


Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS