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Decision time. Need your advise

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  • Decision time. Need your advise

    I have had a blast driving my 50 c cab around for the past few weeks. As you all know by now, the overdrive still isn't hooked up. My problem is this. I want the truck to be able to run highway speeds now and then. It was converted to 12V, leaving the OD inoperable. The pickup has 488 gears and tops out at around 42mph. I have a number of choices here.
    1. Find a 12V solenoid and all the other switches to make the OD work.
    2. Rig up a 6V battery system just for the OD.
    3. Go back to 6V completely.
    4. Change out the ring and pinion.
    5. Swap out the entire rear end.

    All of these choices will require $ and time. Just need some input as to which way would be the easiest and cheapest to do.

  • #2
    I'm thinking I'd start with the first choice...all parts were originally available from the factory.
    sigpic
    1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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    • #3
      All you really need is a 12V solenoid. All the other electrical parts will work fine on 12 volts.

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      • #4
        Unless I'm missing something, all you should need is the 12V solenoid. The switches and wiring don't care whether it's 6V or 12V. Anyway, 6V electrical systems use heavier gauge wire and switches than 12V. Hope this helps.

        Dan Miller
        Auburn, GA

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        • #5
          What about a 12 volt relay too??? Yeah, all the "switches" will handle either voltage, but the relay's coil will be hard pressed to do so.
          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the "addition" Bob......CRS disease is creeping up faster than I would like to admit !

            Dan Miller
            Auburn, GA

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            • #7
              Swap the solenoid. That's all you need to do if everything else is OK. That's what I did and it worked fine until I got tired of trying to keep up with everybody and dropped in a 5.3/4L60E.

              All the others are work arounds to avoid swapping the solenoid which is the easiest, cheapest, and most effective anyway.
              Jon Stalnaker
              Karel Staple Chapter SDC

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              • #8
                Tell me about it!
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                • #9
                  The CASO in me says go with option #1 or #2.If I had the money and/or the skills, however,I would swap out the entire rear end.Mothball the old rear end "just in case". Your truck will be even more of a blast to drive and you could go to all those long distance cruises and shows with no worries! [IMHO.of course.]

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                  • #10
                    Go with option 1. Already been there and done that, and it makes a huge difference going down the highway.
                    Chris Dresbach

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                    • #11
                      I say option "1" as well. Easier than the others, especially swapping out rear ends.
                      Joe Roberts
                      '61 R1 Champ
                      '65 Cruiser
                      Eastern North Carolina Chapter

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                      • #12
                        I should explain that I have none of the other parts for the OD. No relay or switches. I'm thinking ring and pinion swap because I don't really have much need for a 4.88 rear end ratio. I suppose I could plow the field with it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by pushrod63 View Post
                          I should explain that I have none of the other parts for the OD. No relay or switches. I'm thinking ring and pinion swap because I don't really have much need for a 4.88 rear end ratio. I suppose I could plow the field with it.
                          Then I'd go with option 6. Activate the new 12V solenoid with a switch. If you're in OD, you just flick he switch off if you want kick down for a hill or passing.

                          The OD on my MGB is electric only. It is activated by the wiper stalk on the steering column. There is another switch on the trans that only allows the OD in 3rd and 4th gear to prevent use in reverse or too much torque multiplication in the lower gears. Pretty slick system.
                          Dick Steinkamp
                          Bellingham, WA

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by pushrod63 View Post
                            I should explain that I have none of the other parts for the OD. No relay or switches. I'm thinking ring and pinion swap because I don't really have much need for a 4.88 rear end ratio. I suppose I could plow the field with it.
                            That makes a difference. In that case go with the 5.3/4L60E option. If it wasn't on your list it should be.
                            Jon Stalnaker
                            Karel Staple Chapter SDC

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Sdude View Post
                              That makes a difference. In that case go with the 5.3/4L60E option. If it wasn't on your list it should be.
                              The little six has maybe 500 miles on it since the rebuild in the 80s and I just can't bring myself to pull it out. It runs very smooth.

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