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jackb
07-15-2007, 01:08 PM
My 63' Cruiser somewhere in its life lost its front cable....Because it was always travelling with a dealer/repair plate no inspection was ever performed for safety. There is a generic/universal front cable on there now that functions poorly. I just purchased a NOS front cable and will be installing soon. It looks like the original front cable and its holdowns/bolts etc are gone....Question: from the cowl to the pivot bracket/rear cable...what is there that keeps the front cable fixed to the inner fender, floor, etc that keeps it on course to the pivot bracket ? Though I can get this universal setup to just catch the rear brake shoes (NEW), it won't hold the car in any real way. The fellow who installed the replacement cable says the shoes need to be grinded down to allow for more shoe surface to be engaged.
I'm sure he means some variation of "shoe arcing" that's no longer done around here. I've never had this happen before in any other Stude with new rear shoes......If so, and true...how do I grind the shoes down for a better surface area ? What tool do I use ?

showbizkid
07-15-2007, 01:30 PM
Jack, there is only one attachment point for the front cable after exits the firewall. Once the cable and sleeve exit the firewall grommet, they curve down to a point just aft of where the driver's footwell bends upward into the firewall; the collar of the sleeve is clamped here and the bare cable continues directly toward the pivot arm. If you have the Lark parts manual, look at page 331; the clamp is group #1116-60, p/n 195506, "Clevis, control cable, all 59-63". (If you don't have the manual, you should get it! :) )


I can't believe that no one in your area knows how to arc a drum brake shoe! There are still lots of cars and light-duty trucks on the road with rear drum brakes. Call around until you find a shop with some brains.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

StudeRich
07-15-2007, 02:07 PM
If what this "mechanic" is saying is true, the service brakes would not work either!

I would put my bets on the cable system being the culprit!


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

N8N
07-15-2007, 02:09 PM
there's also a metal plate with two holes drilled in it that supports the J-bolt that Clark is referring to. Installing this is really a two person job, one under the car and one inside. Also you need to remove the T-handle from the car to easily attach the cable to it, it's a bit tricky but once you've done it once it's easy. Remove the battery before you start - it looks unlikely but possible that if you're feeding the cable through by yourself it could lay over the battery terminals, and that would be bad!

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

showbizkid
07-15-2007, 03:21 PM
Oh BTW, this seems simple ("duh") but from experience due to a brain fart I mention... the cable runs ABOVE the transmission support crossmember, not under [:I]


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

jackb
07-23-2007, 09:27 PM
I did find all the parts needed to connect the P-brake system.....It was odd that while tightening the adjusting nut the brakes seemed to loosen.....I need to re-adjust the rear brakes....I haven't seen these brakes since my 62' Champ truck...