View Full Version : control arm stabilizer - 60 Hawk

07-15-2007, 03:35 AM
Once I have this bar re-installed, I can finish putting the Hawk front end back together. Unfortunately I didn't take it off - former mechanic did when he installed the power steering, and he never reinstalled it. Either that, or there wasn't one on the car originally and he decided to add it with the power steering, but didn't finish the job. Whatever. So I'm a bit lost on where the two centre pins go - I assume through the frame rails because that's what they line up with, but the holes aren't big enough to accomodate the sleeve, and if it's just the threaded part that goes through the frame, there's no way to get the nuts on the thread because it's not long enough to go completely through the frame. Unless you take the sleeve off, then there's no way to get the sleeve on again. The diagrams and pics in the manual aren't being very helpful. I'm beginning to think this was an option and as I had a spare one or two lying around he thought it would be a good idea.....

Any suggestions?


07-15-2007, 05:13 AM
You talking about this bar? On the triangulated stand?



'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

07-15-2007, 12:07 PM
No, that would have been easy. The one with the knuckle joint.

07-15-2007, 12:11 PM
You mean the popsicle stick sway bar mounts? they mount in the same holes as the one that Tom posted.


55 Commander Starlight

07-15-2007, 12:53 PM
Okay. That hole is a long way back in the frame, how do I get a nut in there, and how do I tighten it down? Should I take the mounting brackets off the sway bar, spin them in somehow, and re-attach? Use a castle nut? I suppose I could hold it in place with a wrench while I feed and spin it in....doesn't seem like much holding it in place, isn't that a lot of stress?


07-15-2007, 05:44 PM
Look closer at the picture I posted, the bolts go RIGHT through the
frame and come out the top. Easy as pie. Its a 4.25 long 3/8-24 fine
threaded bolt (measured bottom of head to tip). Marking on the bolt
is 1038 CP, which I believe is corrosion resistant (*NOT stainless)
steel and grade 5. I did a search but cant find for sure.


07-15-2007, 06:02 PM
Mine is not that style, it's the single pin on a knuckle joint, and bolts *inside* the frame.


07-15-2007, 06:21 PM
There is a access hole in the bottom of the frame right near the rear
bolt hole. Though I could sware my 60 Hawk was still bolt through and
those holes shared the front fender mounting bolts.

Looks like a converted it to the stands at some point.



07-15-2007, 09:37 PM

07-15-2007, 09:59 PM
Yup .. than the bolt is part of the bracket. That bolt should reach
all the way through that hole and poke up the through the second hole
in the top of your frame.


07-15-2007, 11:51 PM
I think this is what you're looking for. The bolt should stick out about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" above the top of the frame, the fender bolts to this also. Mine had a butt load of washer/spacers holding the fender up.

Wayen K.
Libby, MT
61 Hawk (Project)

07-15-2007, 11:54 PM
Yup!! Just like that! Through the frame, nut on top. Thanks for the
clarification picture!


07-16-2007, 12:50 AM

That's what I thought, but the hole doesn't appear to be big enough to accommodate the sleeve on the top section !!

Please don't tell me I have to remove the fenders to get this thing on....:(

07-16-2007, 09:15 PM
Its been a while, but if you mean there is a sleeve on the bolt that
goes through the frame (most likely so the frame doesnt crush) then it
must have an access hole near there to hold the sleeve inside of the
frame so you can push the bolt in from under, through the sleeve, and
then out the top hole - to put the nut on. In your picture there is
a hole fairly close you, should be able to hold the sleeve thru there.


07-17-2007, 01:18 AM
Well, it's done. Took a couple of hours as we had to ream the bottom hole in the frame to accept the sleeve, but once that was done, it was fairly straight forward, with a little sweat equity. No additional washers/spacers required for the fenders, everything seems to fit pretty 'fair and square' - pretty amazing for a Stude :D

Tomorrow I will finish up the little bits of wiring still to do, and probably pull the wheels - have new rims, so will take them all down for a tire swap on the weekend.

Waiting for my air vent housings to come, will probably install those over the weekend as well, finish the chrome bits and front end next week. The only things left after that will be the headliner, glass, and paint touch up, reinstall the seats...and a bath.

While the tires are off, I'll have to check the connections on the power steering unit. There is a leak somewhere, big time, and I'm not sure if it's the tranny or p/s (new install). If it turns out to be the transmission, I guess it will have to go in for a look-see, but I doubt the shop will honour any warranty, seeing as it's been parked for the last three years. ;)

I am so looking forward to being able to drive it again!


07-17-2007, 03:34 AM
I know the feeling.;)


quote:Originally posted by tyaughton
I am so looking forward to being able to drive it again!