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View Full Version : Another flippin R1 question - PS pump bolts - HELP



sbca96
07-14-2007, 10:23 PM
OK, so .. I am SOOOOOOO close to getting this darn thing back on the
road and yet again .. problems. When I took the PS pump off, I found
it was held on with 5/16-18 all-thread and washers. The two special
bolts missing since God only knows when. Also the bracket off of the
drivers side exhaust manifold - gone. I ordered all the parts from
S.I., and took the all thread out. The top bolt went in fine, but the
lower bolt (upper tapped block hole) bottoms out before its tight. I
took the bolt out of my '60 Hawk engine, and it fits that engine fine.
The extra R1 I have has that bolt broken off in the block, so its not
any help to figure this out. Is there ANY reason the R1 block would
have a shallower hole on the top block hole than the bottom? I tried
the bottom bolt in the top hole and it also is "too long" and bottoms
out before contacting the water manifold. I can not use extra washers
since it will skew the PS pump. I am thinking that a bolt is broken
off in the block toward the bottom of the hole, creating a 1/4 less
depth. I took the fan shroud off, and was going to start drilling and
I thought I should ask just in case there is something I dont know.

Yah .. I am going to ask it .. CAN ANYTHING ELSE GO WRONG???[xx(]:([V][:0]

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

Karl
07-14-2007, 10:36 PM
How much thread is useable? How many threads or turn before it bottoms out.Ran into same thing on my 64.:( Buy a correct length bolt.Or put the all-thread back in...;)

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

sbca96
07-14-2007, 11:07 PM
Karl, this is the special bolt, the one that has the thick spacer as
part of the bolt. Its a 5/16-18 to screw into the block, & the other
side is a 5/16-24 thread for the pump pivot. It threads in little
ways, I just dont want to cut this bolt I just spent 25 bucks for!! I
could cut 1/4 off the end, but that leaves very little thread contact
for holding the pump pivot in place.[V]

Tom

sbca96
07-15-2007, 12:05 AM
OK .... I got some crap out of the hole with another bolt, and then
shortened the special bolt about .200 of an inch. Its on now. Next
to get the pump back on. I checked the oil pressure valve & cleaned
it while I had the altenator off.

Tom

Karl
07-15-2007, 12:17 AM
You could have used a bottom tap to clean up the threads.But using another bolt will work in a pinch.:)

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

sbca96
07-15-2007, 02:02 AM
I thought about that, but I have no taps here. I need to get even a
cheap set for emergencies like this. Everything was closed by the
time I got to that point. Its ALL back together now. Looks complete
for the first time since November.[:0]

Tom

PS : I think that some of my EMails to you arent getting through. I
sent you an email on Weds about your supercharger stuff.


quote:Originally posted by Karl

You could have used a bottom tap to clean up the threads.But using another bolt will work in a pinch

PackardV8
07-15-2007, 12:04 PM
Hi, Tom,

Next time you need to clean a bolt hole and do not have a bottoming tap, make one. Take a bolt and with a hacksaw, cut four equally spaced slots up the length of the threads and grind the bottom of the bolt flat up to the first threads. These slots will give the crud in the bolt hole a space to collect as you loosen it. Run in the bolt, pull it out, blow off the crud, repeat until you are certain it is bottoming in the hole.

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

sbca96
07-15-2007, 05:33 PM
Thats a NEAT trick Jack, I will have to try that next time. I hope
others reading this will also benefit. The downside using a regualar
bolt is the crud just gets stuck to the bottom, as you mention those
cuts give the crud someplace to go. Nice.

Tom

Karl
07-15-2007, 09:13 PM
but then ,he would need to buy a hacksaw...hehehehe[:I]

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

sbca96
07-15-2007, 09:18 PM
I would use my Dremel.[:p]

Tom


quote:Originally posted by Karl

but then ,he would need to buy a hacksaw...hehehehe[:I]

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

Roscomacaw
07-15-2007, 10:03 PM
Tom,(and others)

Please accept a bit of advice from me as to buying "cheap tools" - especially something like a tap and die set!

I used to drill and tap like a madman in a job I had some 25 years ago. I was retrofitting heavy industrial machinery with state-of-the-art control systems. I'd lay out my mounting points on the massively thick steel and cast iron sidewalls and rams of huge punch presses, press brakes and metal shears.
I had a quartet of Milwaukee drill motors set up with appropriate-size drills and taps. Man, I would stab those 1/4-20 & 5/16-18 taps into freshly drilled holes with the drill motor spinning them flat out! Shop foremen would come around and watch me and just shake their heads in disbelief that I wasn't snapping off taps left and right. The trick was - using GOOD quality taps (read that: expensive) and lots of tapping lube.
You might save a few bucks buying a Hong-Jin tap and die set (cleverly disguised with some name like "Pittsburgh" or "Chicago Pneumatics") and I confess, that Chinese wrenches and sockets have sorta improved in quality of late. But break off a tap, nice an deep, in a hole you're hoping to clear or thread and see what it costs in frustration and EDM shop charges to make things right again. Besides, half (or more) of the taps in one of those full-spectrum "kits" will never leave the case! Buy only the common sizes and PAY the going price for GOOD Quality pieces. Also invest in a good bottle of the thick, syrup-y sort of tap lube and use it LIBERALLY. I don't TOUCH a tap to metal unless it's dripping lube!

Cheap wrenches and sockets: Cost - maybe a bit of knuckle skin and a few blue words.[V]
Cheap drills, screwdriver bits and taps: A doctor visit to get your blood pressure meds renewed.[xx(] Followed by a trip to a shop that sports an Electro-Discharge-Machine (EDM) to erode away the buried tap remnant.[8]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

sbca96
07-15-2007, 10:06 PM
Thats good advice, and I would definately use a good quality tap for
a new hole, but for cleaning out an existing hole - cheap should work
well enough for that.

Definately worth mentioning.

Tom

Roscomacaw
07-15-2007, 10:51 PM
OK. Just remember the old line: You get what you pay for.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Karl
07-15-2007, 11:57 PM
When you Break a tap .Cleaning up old threads. You will remember These words of wisdom..Cheap don't get it with Tools....;)

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS