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View Full Version : Too Hot = Failed Thermostat



GTtim
07-14-2007, 10:20 PM
I thought I would post this because it was a new one on me. On Friday I managed to get a little free time in the afternoon and drove to the Iola Old Cars Show. It was a little over 2 hour drive and everything went great. On the way home that evening the Hawk seemed to be running a little bit warm, up at about the 200 mark. I stopped for gas, opened the hood, it didn't seem to be horribly warm, so I bought a gallon jug of water just in case and headed on my way. I didn't get two blocks when I heard the sound of a strangled tea kettle and the gage was pegged. I pulled over immediately and shut it down in a cloud of steam and spewing coolant. I put in a call to my favorite mechanic, Claude, who said, "Sounds like it's your thermostat!". Long story short, the police offered help, members of the Wild Rose Fire Department offered help and water, and I took the offending thermostat out, replaced lost coolant and tentatively went on my way. That was it. I've looked at that stupid thermostat, which is only a year old, from top to bottom and I can't see anything wrong with it, but it obviously was the problem and it refused to open when I boiled it in a pot on the stove. Does anyone know if there are different types of thermostats that are more reliable? This one is a nozzle type. And why don't they make these things so that if they fail they are stuck open not closed?

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

r1lark
07-14-2007, 10:52 PM
quote:Originally posted by GTtim

I thought I would post this because it was a new one on me. On Friday I managed to get a little free time in the afternoon and drove to the Iola Old Cars Show. It was a little over 2 hour drive and everything went great. On the way home that evening the Hawk seemed to be running a little bit warm, up at about the 200 mark. I stopped for gas, opened the hood, it didn't seem to be horribly warm, so I bought a gallon jug of water just in case and headed on my way. I didn't get two blocks when I heard the sound of a strangled tea kettle and the gage was pegged. I pulled over immediately and shut it down in a cloud of steam and spewing coolant. I put in a call to my favorite mechanic, Claude, who said, "Sounds like it's your thermostat!". Long story short, the police offered help, members of the Wild Rose Fire Department offered help and water, and I took the offending thermostat out, replaced lost coolant and tentatively went on my way. That was it. I've looked at that stupid thermostat, which is only a year old, from top to bottom and I can't see anything wrong with it, but it obviously was the problem and it refused to open when I boiled it in a pot on the stove. Does anyone know if there are different types of thermostats that are more reliable? This one is a nozzle type. And why don't they make these things so that if they fail they are stuck open not closed?

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk


I have had bad luck with most 'modern' thermostats. I now use only Robertshaw High Performance thermostats in my Studebakers. Have not had a thermostat problem since, and they seem to allow more coolant flow also.

AutoZone sold them a few years ago, but not sure if they do now. Mr Gasket has them as their "hi performance" thermostats. Supposedly, Prestone is marketing this thermostat also. AutoZone is where I have gotten them in the past. Most Studebakers take the p/n 330-160 or 330-180 (the last three numbers is the opening temperature).

Paul

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

DEEPNHOCK
07-14-2007, 11:05 PM
Here's exactly what you seek....
p/n# 7200-160 (160 degree's)
p/n# 7200-180 (180 degree's)
p/n# 7200-195 (195 degree's)
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]
http://www.motoradusa.com/products/failsafethermo/index.html

http://tinyurl.com/2epp5j


http://www.motoradusa.com/products/failsafethermo/media/webposter.jpg



quote:Originally posted by GTtim

I thought I would post this because it was a new one on me. On Friday I managed to get a little free time in the afternoon and drove to the Iola Old Cars Show. It was a little over 2 hour drive and everything went great. On the way home that evening the Hawk seemed to be running a little bit warm, up at about the 200 mark. I stopped for gas, opened the hood, it didn't seem to be horribly warm, so I bought a gallon jug of water just in case and headed on my way. I didn't get two blocks when I heard the sound of a strangled tea kettle and the gage was pegged. I pulled over immediately and shut it down in a cloud of steam and spewing coolant. I put in a call to my favorite mechanic, Claude, who said, "Sounds like it's your thermostat!". Long story short, the police offered help, members of the Wild Rose Fire Department offered help and water, and I took the offending thermostat out, replaced lost coolant and tentatively went on my way. That was it. I've looked at that stupid thermostat, which is only a year old, from top to bottom and I can't see anything wrong with it, but it obviously was the problem and it refused to open when I boiled it in a pot on the stove. Does anyone know if there are different types of thermostats that are more reliable? This one is a nozzle type. And why don't they make these things so that if they fail they are stuck open not closed?

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

N8N
07-15-2007, 10:16 AM
I too have heard that Robertshaw thermostats are the most reliable, but have been unable to find them at any FLAPS.

Actually my local AutoZone just closed, so I am now completely reliant on the independent place around the corner. Which is fine except they sell Fram filters and don't have good prices on oil :(

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

gstine
07-15-2007, 10:35 PM
I had a similar issue with my gauge. My engine is running at about 150 degrees and the thermostat is working great, but the gauge always pegs after running for about 20 min. I let it idle and check the coolant temp occasionally, but for the most part, I don't worry about it.

Greg Stine
50 Champ DeLuxe 4DR Sedan