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Can you weld the Chrome Trim Strip tabs back in place? (57 K-Body)

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  • Body / Glass: Can you weld the Chrome Trim Strip tabs back in place? (57 K-Body)

    hi,
    I'm gathering all my chrome pieces for the dreaded (bank account-wise) trim to the chrome-plater.
    Most of my 'tabs' (see photo) broke off, as usual I'm told, upon removal. One suggestion for repair I was given was to drill out the broken stud and tap for small screw. But I'm wondering if I couldn't simply put the retaining tabs (minus the spring-clips) back in place, and tack-weld them back in place? The trim strips seem to be magnetic so I assume they would weld ok, and a quick tap with my MIG welder on each spot (that used to be a mushroom head rivet) would hold the clip in place, wouldn't it? I would do this BEFORE rechroming, so any bubbling of chrome from the heat is not an issue, and if I just "1,2,3" spot-weld it quickly, it seems I shouldn't distort the fairly thick and heavy trim strip. Has anyone tried this? Or is the drill and tap method the wisest method to use? Attached photo shows one of the door strips, but have same issue on all four (two at quarter window and both doors of course). Also, I don't think it should cause a problem at plating, I'd just have chrome plated retainer clips; all they do is hold the spring clips in place so shouldn't be an issue......
    Thoughts or advice? Thanks!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I have the same situation with the Speedster. In checking around for options a couple individuals suggested to JB weld studs to the chrome piece. I haven't tried it yet so am interested in other's solutions.

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    • #3
      Solder, yes. Weld no. Or J-B weld.
      Jerry Forrester
      Forrester's Chrome
      Douglasville, Georgia

      See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

      Comment


      • #4
        OK, thanks Jerry; out of curiousity, what is the issue with welding, just too much chance of warping the trim piece with the heat?
        My solder gun is small and not going to do a good job, barely does wiring; I'll probably revert to carefully drilling out and tapping for two small screws each. I like JB Weld for some things, but I'd be concerned about it for these, considering there will be hands/arms/elbows leaning and 'torquing' these trim pieces when the windows are open in the summer.... and not much area on those tiny studs to JB Weld to. Screws would make me feel more confident of long-term permanent solution (if I shouldn't do welding :-)

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        • #5
          I would think the heat from welding would just blow pot metal to dust...REAL QUICK!
          Brad Johnson,
          SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
          '56 Sky Hawk in process

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
            I would think the heat from welding would just blow pot metal to dust...REAL QUICK!
            You have to be really good to weld potmetal. Take an old piece of potmetal you'll never use (I save old broken potmetal parts) lay it in a piece of very clean angle iron with the V up and melt the potmetal into a rod with Acet. Oxy. torch keep the carbon from the rich Acet. out of the potmetal. Practice with the temperature to see when the potmetal melts if your using a gas torch. A Tig torch works best on AC. Its been too many years since I've welded pot metal to really get into detail. With gas I remember using a blue flux on the rod. Pot metal melts at a lower temp than aluminum. Its doable but ya gotta hold your mouth just right. I've TIG welded Aluminum to stainless with Everdur on AC so yes just about any metal can be welded doesn't mean it will hold up to much, just don't drop it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
              I would think the heat from welding would just blow pot metal to dust...REAL QUICK!
              I've welded aluminun, steel, cast iron, stainless, copper, sheet metal. Using stick electrode, MIG, TIG etc. The most difficult is pot metal. If you decide to weld .YOU MUST HAVE AN EXPERT DO THE JOB. I go the plating shop for this type of job. AIH in Dubugue, Ia. does my stuff. The problem with pot metal is that it does not change color when it reaches the melting point so you cannot easily tell when it is too hot and thus falls apart, (Ruined) I would never again attempt welding an expensive piece of pot metal.

              P.S. I remember now that AIH used solder when repairing the grill cowling on my 62 GT Hawk. The same problem occurs with soldering, so you still need the professional. You may also have to deal with joining two unlike metals in this case spot welding may work. Just have an expert take a look at what you are trying to do.
              don

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              • #8
                I actually like your small screw idea best. You are not actually joining two types of metal here, more accurately you are creating a retainer to hold them together. With a screw shank slightly smaller than the hole in the clip it will give it just a little bit of room to move and I think that would be a good thing.

                Of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong.
                Pat Dilling
                Olivehurst, CA
                Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


                LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

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                • #9
                  Had the same problem. There is plenty of surface there for JBWeld. Make sure the surfaces are sanded clean and rough, allow 48 hours to set before you replace the strip and you shouldn't have any problem. Mine have been on for over two years under all kinds of stress and none have come loose yet. I could never get a good enough thread with a small tap to use the screw trick but you might try it first. I did the JB weld AFTER they were rechromed. Good luck.

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                  • #10
                    My first Stude project: I did not realize this particular trim strip was potmetal (I knew, could feel....that the grille pieces were) and my magnet must have been pulling at the broken off studs still in there. Knowing it is pot-metal gives me all the reason I need to stay away from welding it! I have enough problems welding my steel floor panels and such
                    Thanks for all the input guys.
                    Barry

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                    • #11
                      You could also try some 2 part epoxy that we use in the shop, panel bond, or 4050. I had one of the door light switch fiber back "explode" wh\en I was tracing a short. I used some panel bond to "fix it"

                      Jim
                      "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                      We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                      Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                      As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                      their Memorials!

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                      • #12
                        I used JB weld they re ally secure. I dont think they will ever come off.

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                        • #13
                          I watched a guy weld up broken pot metal with this stuff. Yes, it worked. Much more like brazing than welding.

                          Muggy Weld online welding store carries premium welding supplies designed to repair cast iron, pot metal, aluminum, stainless, steel and more.

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                          • #14
                            Drilling and using a small self tapping screw will work fine but don't drill to far in and go all the way through, you can also drill the holes and then use J_B weld and it will fill the hole and end up like the original round on top and it will hold good.
                            Candbstudebakers
                            Castro Valley,
                            California


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                            • #15
                              Are the original clips available? I need the type that are bullet shaped to fit in a round hole.

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