Brakes: New master cylynder for a '63 Lark

[JimC]

Hey guys,

my '63 has a leaky master cylynder. Are ther any suggestions as far as a brand/part number, etc that people have had good luck with? Considering that this is the system that stops the car, I really want to get this right the first time around.

[41 Frank]

Jim, I can give you some info on master cylinders today at the show. Need to know if your 63 has power brakes or not. Front disc or drum brakes.

[brian6373]

Hi Jim. If you want to keep your car stock looking you'll have to use the master cyl. for the 65-66 on the split brake system. To make it work on your car you have to change the inverted flare nuts to a smaller size and maybe a couple of bushings on the master cyl. ports. The reason is the 63 master cyl. uses 9/16" inverted flare nuts for the brake line connections. I have several cores that i can't find a rebuild kit for, so I used the later master cyl. I got mine on ebay for about 55 bucks. The power disc brakes use the single chamber master cyl.

[candbstudebakers]

Hi Jim. If you want to keep your car stock looking you'll have to use the master cyl. for the 65-66 on the split brake system. To make it work on your car you have to change the inverted flare nuts to a smaller size and maybe a couple of bushings on the master cyl. ports. The reason is the 63 master cyl. uses 9/16" inverted flare nuts for the brake line connections. I have several cores that i can't find a rebuild kit for, so I used the later master cyl. I got mine on ebay for about 55 bucks. The power disc brakes use the single chamber master cyl.

Brian is right and if you want an original 63 SI has them for $335.00 or the 64-66 for $135.00 that is the duel type.

[JimC]

Frank, thanks for the info, and thanks to you guys too, Brian and CandB.

Since my Studebaker experience has only been in the 59-60 cars, I'm still learning a lot about the newer brake systems. In other words, forgive me if any or all of this sounds stupid. I'm really tempted to rebuild the entire brake system on the car since I have no clue how old the components are. If I went with the 64-66 Master Cylinder, Would it make more sense to change my lines out entirely to match the cylinder, or would that just shuffle the connection problems down to the wheels? Also, does anyone have a brake system rebuild kit with pre-bent lines, or would it make more sense to pull the lines off the car and just bring em to a FLAPS (keeping in mind the flare nut change)?

Thanks again for the input!

[brian6373]

I bought my M.C. on ebay, There's one on there now for $60.00. These are new, not rebuilt. The one I got works as it should. When I bought my '63 Lark, one of the first things I did was replace all four wheel cyl.s, M.C. and the rubber hoses with new parts. I flushed out the steel lines and used dot 5 brake fluid. The silicon based fluid does not absorb water and it doesn't eat paint. Good working brakes are about the most important system on your car. I like to start with a clean slate when it comes to brakes, even if the previous owner tells you that they were just done. At a minimum you should do a thorough inspection of all the components before taking it out on the road. I was told that the brakes had been done not to long before I bought the car. Turns out that, yes, there were new brake shoes all around, but when I pulled the dust boots off the wheel cyl. they had fluid passed the pistons. In addition one of the shoe hold-down nails were missing and that shoe was rubbing on the outside of the brake drum! On the split system the front steel line to the front wheel cyl.s goes to a tee. It's a short line, maybe 12"-16" long. The line to the rear brakes goes to a coupling on the frame just to the rear of the steering box. There are other treads that discuss steel verses other materials that can be used that are more easily bent to shape. The other thing that might make the job more difficult is the captured nuts on the inside of the firewall. When I went to remove the old master cyl. I discovered that the sheet meatal cages holding the nuts were all rusted and would just turn with the bolt, so you may need to replace those as well. I posted a thread on my adventures with the master cyl. last year, try a search for it. S.I has the 59-64 manuals on a disc that is very affordable. I like the dics because I can print the pages I need and not worry about greasy finger prints. I can also make it bigger to look at details that my old eyes can see! I hope this helps you, good luck. Brian

[candbstudebakers]

Frank, thanks for the info, and thanks to you guys too, Brian and CandB.

Since my Studebaker experience has only been in the 59-60 cars, I'm still learning a lot about the newer brake systems. In other words, forgive me if any or all of this sounds stupid. I'm really tempted to rebuild the entire brake system on the car since I have no clue how old the components are. If I went with the 64-66 Master Cylinder, Would it make more sense to change my lines out entirely to match the cylinder, or would that just shuffle the connection problems down to the wheels? Also, does anyone have a brake system rebuild kit with pre-bent lines, or would it make more sense to pull the lines off the car and just bring em to a FLAPS (keeping in mind the flare nut change)?

Thanks again for the input!

I would not change out every thing if I did not have to, Master Cyl. and wheel cyl. yes, lines only if they were rusted out in places, but since I do not live in the snow/salt area my lines have a better chance for being in good shape just blow them out , change the cyl.'s and rubber lines, alter the the fitting to fit the later 64-66 master cyl. and save a lot of work . the 64-66 looks just like the 63 but with smaller size fitting just like Brian stated. Good luck and have fun.

[stude1964]

I would not change out every thing if I did not have to, Master Cyl. and wheel cyl. yes, lines only if they were rusted out in places, but since I do not live in the snow/salt area my lines have a better chance for being in good shape just blow them out , change the cyl.'s and rubber lines, alter the the fitting to fit the later 64-66 master cyl. and save a lot of work . the 64-66 looks just like the 63 but with smaller size fitting just like Brian stated. Good luck and have fun.

I have a NORS '63 MC as well a used '63 MC I'm going to switch out in the near future. The one in use has had silicone since a brake rebuild.
Rob in PA.

[1962larksedan]

On my 1962 (last year of the single reservoir drum brake MC); I 'cheated' and installed a disc brake unit for a 1968 Mustang since I was going to use the Turner disc brake conversion setup. I held off since my original front drums and brake shoes had almost no wear on 'em. I did replace all of the brake hoses and wheel cylinders though. Needless to say: I fabbed up an under dash brake light switch mount and used a universal switch since I didn't want to muck around with relocating the original hydraulic part.

[52 Ragtop]

I have the correct 1/2 x 20 and 9/16 fittings for the 3/16 line to go direct into the M/C. Also, you can drill & tap the end of the M/C for the brake light switch. just be sure to take the M/C apart and clean out the metal shavings.

Jim