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Rust Removal with Spooge Tank

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  • Other: Rust Removal with Spooge Tank

    There have been several threads about rust removal, so I thought I'd post one about removing rust with electrolysis (spooge tank).

    Basically you run D.C. through the piece you want to remove the rust on, and do it in a bucket of sodium carbonate solution. Sodium carbonate is found in Washing Soda, and also automatic dishwashing powder.

    I got a 110VAC to 12VAC transformer for $9 and then got a bridge rectifier from Radio Shack for $4 to convert the 12VAC to 12VDC. I wired everything up, put a fuse in the + line, put some old booster cable clamps on the ends and started spooging.

    You HAVE to connect the Neg lead to the piece you want to remove the rust on, and come up with a sacrificial anode (I use rebar) to attach the Pos lead to. Make sure they don't touch in the solution or you will blow the fuse. The piece you want to remove the rust on, and the sacrificial anode need to be very close together tho--I try to shoot for less than an inch.
    Forget about using baking soda--it is a poor substitute for Sodium Carbonate.

    Click image for larger version

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    Here are some results.
    Both wheel cylinders looked the same before spooging.
    The emergency brake cable is before and after.
    These things took about 12 hours in the spooge tank.
    If you do this you will release Hydrogen and Oxygen, so be sure not to spooge in enclosed spaces.
    The Pos. sacrificial anode WILL degrade, and you shouldn't use stainless steel--only use normal carbon steel. Make sure your Pos. clamp is NOT positioned in the solution or it will quickly degrade just like the anode.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by rrausch; 05-14-2012, 07:37 AM. Reason: clarification
    1953 Chev. 210 Convertible, 261 6cyl w/Offy dual intake (But I always did love Studebakers!)
    1995 Dodge/Cummins Pickup, 250 HP, 620 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, ATS trans.
    Robert Rausch

  • #2
    Ah yes, the art of spooging. Is a small 40.00 battery charger up to the task? How long might a brake drum take before it has been completely spooged? Did you ever do one? thanks jimmijim
    sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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    • #3
      Wow!!! I didn't even think of an anode/cathode reaction... those parts look absolutely great.
      I think that, time permitting, I will be doing some of my parts that way.That is really impressive!!

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      • #4
        I've been using a battery charger for doing electrolytic rust removal and it works great. My first tank was a large plastic garbage can, but I am making one from a 55 gallon plastic barrel. It is amazing how good the parts look after rinsing. The process even removes old paint at the same time.
        "In the heart of Arkansas."
        Searcy, Arkansas
        1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
        1952 2R pickup

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        • #5
          The largest piece I did was a 6-cylinder head in a plastic garbage can, but the head punched through the bottom of the plastic and everything drained out--but I did get in about 12 hours of good spooging before that happened. So I got a lot of rust off, but not all of it.

          The results can be amazing--I had given up on those emergency brake cable ends, as they'd sat in the mud for many, many years. But I stuck them in the tank when I couldn't easily find new ones and I was amazed when they came out. As far as how long a brake drum would take, it would depend on the amperage of the unit--mine puts out about 6 amps, and how close you could position the sacrificial anode to the brake drum. Set one up and give it a try.

          I don't think modern battery chargers, with electronic controls will work unless you hook up a 12V battery inline. That's what I've heard anyway.
          1953 Chev. 210 Convertible, 261 6cyl w/Offy dual intake (But I always did love Studebakers!)
          1995 Dodge/Cummins Pickup, 250 HP, 620 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, ATS trans.
          Robert Rausch

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          • #6
            I have a 300 gal tank and use a dc welder. It works well.
            Dwayne Jacobson

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            • #7
              Wow. I'd love to see some pictures of that thing bubbling. What did you spooge in that tank?
              1953 Chev. 210 Convertible, 261 6cyl w/Offy dual intake (But I always did love Studebakers!)
              1995 Dodge/Cummins Pickup, 250 HP, 620 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, ATS trans.
              Robert Rausch

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by rrausch View Post
                Wow. I'd love to see some pictures of that thing bubbling. What did you spooge in that tank?
                Whatever he wants
                '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

                "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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                • #9
                  Must be a regional thing. Around here, 'spooge' has a... MUCH different meaning. As in, Linda would at least roll her eyes at me for using that word...
                  Proud NON-CASO

                  I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

                  If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

                  GOD BLESS AMERICA

                  Ephesians 6:10-17
                  Romans 15:13
                  Deuteronomy 31:6
                  Proverbs 28:1

                  Illegitimi non carborundum

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                  • #10
                    I show most every Studebaker person that shows up at my house the technique. One went so far as to build a tank big enough to derust a frame using a welder. I'd bet Studebaker folks have boosted the sales of washing soda a bunch. The biggest I've used is a kiddy wading pool.
                    JDP Maryland

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bob Andrews View Post
                      Must be a regional thing. Around here, 'spooge' has a... MUCH different meaning. As in, Linda would at least roll her eyes at me for using that word...
                      I don't even know how to pronounce it. I've always just called the process electrolytic rust removal.
                      "In the heart of Arkansas."
                      Searcy, Arkansas
                      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                      1952 2R pickup

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by JDP View Post
                        I show most every Studebaker person that shows up at my house the technique. One went so far as to build a tank big enough to derust a frame using a welder. I'd bet Studebaker folks have boosted the sales of washing soda a bunch. The biggest I've used is a kiddy wading pool.
                        As soon as I can find a deep enough swimming pool to submerge the whole car...
                        '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

                        "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Maybe you could find a pond to spooge in cheers jimmijim
                          Originally posted by JimC View Post
                          As soon as I can find a deep enough swimming pool to submerge the whole car...
                          sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for the process description - What is the proportion of Cal. Carb./Deterg to water that you use?
                            Paul TK

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Paul Keller View Post
                              Thanks for the process description - What is the proportion of Cal. Carb./Deterg to water that you use?
                              Paul TK
                              Calcium carbonate is essentially insoluble in water. What you want is sodium carbonate, aka soda ash. If you can buy it in 50# quantities, maybe by sharing with friends, you can probably get it from a janitorial supply outfit for about a dollar a pound.

                              A good starting point might be a half pound per gallon, more if you have a powerful source of DC power like a welder. You'll also want a little detergent. Liquid dish soap will work; 1/2 cup per 50 gallons should be enough, however with a big power supply like a welder, you may get too much foaming. You can knock the foam down with a little splash of kerosine, or you can use dishwasher detergent which does not foam.

                              If you really want the process to work well and quickly, you'll need to add a quarter pound per gallon of sodium gluconate, however this is not readily available to the general public. A chemical supplier might sell you some.

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