There have been several threads about rust removal, so I thought I'd post one about removing rust with electrolysis (spooge tank).
Basically you run D.C. through the piece you want to remove the rust on, and do it in a bucket of sodium carbonate solution. Sodium carbonate is found in Washing Soda, and also automatic dishwashing powder.
I got a 110VAC to 12VAC transformer for $9 and then got a bridge rectifier from Radio Shack for $4 to convert the 12VAC to 12VDC. I wired everything up, put a fuse in the + line, put some old booster cable clamps on the ends and started spooging.
You HAVE to connect the Neg lead to the piece you want to remove the rust on, and come up with a sacrificial anode (I use rebar) to attach the Pos lead to. Make sure they don't touch in the solution or you will blow the fuse. The piece you want to remove the rust on, and the sacrificial anode need to be very close together tho--I try to shoot for less than an inch.
Forget about using baking soda--it is a poor substitute for Sodium Carbonate.
Here are some results.
Both wheel cylinders looked the same before spooging.
The emergency brake cable is before and after.
These things took about 12 hours in the spooge tank.
If you do this you will release Hydrogen and Oxygen, so be sure not to spooge in enclosed spaces.
The Pos. sacrificial anode WILL degrade, and you shouldn't use stainless steel--only use normal carbon steel. Make sure your Pos. clamp is NOT positioned in the solution or it will quickly degrade just like the anode.
Basically you run D.C. through the piece you want to remove the rust on, and do it in a bucket of sodium carbonate solution. Sodium carbonate is found in Washing Soda, and also automatic dishwashing powder.
I got a 110VAC to 12VAC transformer for $9 and then got a bridge rectifier from Radio Shack for $4 to convert the 12VAC to 12VDC. I wired everything up, put a fuse in the + line, put some old booster cable clamps on the ends and started spooging.
You HAVE to connect the Neg lead to the piece you want to remove the rust on, and come up with a sacrificial anode (I use rebar) to attach the Pos lead to. Make sure they don't touch in the solution or you will blow the fuse. The piece you want to remove the rust on, and the sacrificial anode need to be very close together tho--I try to shoot for less than an inch.
Forget about using baking soda--it is a poor substitute for Sodium Carbonate.
Here are some results.
Both wheel cylinders looked the same before spooging.
The emergency brake cable is before and after.
These things took about 12 hours in the spooge tank.
If you do this you will release Hydrogen and Oxygen, so be sure not to spooge in enclosed spaces.
The Pos. sacrificial anode WILL degrade, and you shouldn't use stainless steel--only use normal carbon steel. Make sure your Pos. clamp is NOT positioned in the solution or it will quickly degrade just like the anode.
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