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lew
07-10-2007, 01:06 PM
Hi Guys, HELP
I have a 55 1/2 ton with v8 & overdrive. The overdrive works great when it is cold. When it gets hot the overdrive free wheels but will not go into overdrive. When it cools down it
works again. Ideas???
Lew

Roscomacaw
07-10-2007, 01:35 PM
Assuming it's all original (the OD setup), I'd be thinking a loose or broken wire in the solenoid or the relay coil. When it heats up, everything "grows" a bit and some thing - be it a winding or a termination is losing contact due to the swelling. Even the kickdown switch isn't immune to the effects of heating. Ignition coils can suffer the same fate - run cold, get hot, quit![}:)]
Recheck all the connections you can SEE. The four connections to the relay on the firewall (and remove the fuse, clean it's ends and clean INSIDE the little fingers it clips into on the relay). Also check the connections on the solenoid and the reverse lockout switch and governor AND kickdown switch;). If all these look secure, THEN start thinking about internal problems in the component parts.:(

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Roscomacaw
07-10-2007, 01:35 PM
Assuming it's all original (the OD setup), I'd be thinking a loose or broken wire in the solenoid or the relay coil. When it heats up, everything "grows" a bit and some thing - be it a winding or a termination is losing contact due to the swelling. Even the kickdown switch isn't immune to the effects of heating. Ignition coils can suffer the same fate - run cold, get hot, quit![}:)]
Recheck all the connections you can SEE. The four connections to the relay on the firewall (and remove the fuse, clean it's ends and clean INSIDE the little fingers it clips into on the relay). Also check the connections on the solenoid and the reverse lockout switch and governor AND kickdown switch;). If all these look secure, THEN start thinking about internal problems in the component parts.:(

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

lew
07-10-2007, 02:31 PM
Thanks Mr biggs. I will start looking.
Lew

lew
07-10-2007, 02:31 PM
Thanks Mr biggs. I will start looking.
Lew

len
07-10-2007, 10:36 PM
I had this problem I determined it was the relay when it got hot it would not send enough current to the solenoid. Fifth Avenue Antique Car Parts sells a new relay that is good for both 6 and 12 volt.

len
07-10-2007, 10:36 PM
I had this problem I determined it was the relay when it got hot it would not send enough current to the solenoid. Fifth Avenue Antique Car Parts sells a new relay that is good for both 6 and 12 volt.

railway
07-10-2007, 11:23 PM
I'm not much in to betting, but if I were, I say replace the glass fuss, while doing the things Mr.Biggs said.
Good Luck Lew, Or just bring it to me when you come down this winter, I'll only charge you ONE black Lark for the work. (Grin)
Ebon...

railway
07-10-2007, 11:23 PM
I'm not much in to betting, but if I were, I say replace the glass fuss, while doing the things Mr.Biggs said.
Good Luck Lew, Or just bring it to me when you come down this winter, I'll only charge you ONE black Lark for the work. (Grin)
Ebon...

Roscomacaw
07-11-2007, 06:35 PM
Len, If that relay works (clicks) - hot AND cold - then in either case it should conduct enough "juice" to operate the solenoid. Like I said tho, it CAN be a case of the relay windings opening up once warm (and my instincts tell me that this is LESS likely something that would occur with the relay than inside the solenoid)and thereby allowing the contacts to open up and not conduct the current to the solenoid.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Roscomacaw
07-11-2007, 06:35 PM
Len, If that relay works (clicks) - hot AND cold - then in either case it should conduct enough "juice" to operate the solenoid. Like I said tho, it CAN be a case of the relay windings opening up once warm (and my instincts tell me that this is LESS likely something that would occur with the relay than inside the solenoid)and thereby allowing the contacts to open up and not conduct the current to the solenoid.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

len
07-12-2007, 10:19 AM
Regarding my OD problem I connected a test light to the solenoid terminal of the relay when I grounded the switch the relay would click and the test light would light but the solenoid would not click. I then ran power directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal of the relay and the solenoid activated. Time will tell if this solved the problem.

len
07-12-2007, 10:19 AM
Regarding my OD problem I connected a test light to the solenoid terminal of the relay when I grounded the switch the relay would click and the test light would light but the solenoid would not click. I then ran power directly from the battery to the solenoid terminal of the relay and the solenoid activated. Time will tell if this solved the problem.