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View Full Version : Driveshaft mishap what to do?



Jeff_H
07-09-2007, 01:42 PM
I've always had some troubles with the driveshaft rubbing on my '53 hardtop with ford V6 and AT. Its a 1 pc shaft and the tunnel under the car is pretty tight being designed for a 2 pc shaft... Yesterday, I was working to cut the tunnel in the area where the problem is and weld in some revised metal. Well, my 4" cut-off disk plunged through and nicked the shaft (should have removed it but wanted to see how much I needed to adjust things). I have a cut or deep scratch if you will in the shaft now that does not go through the tubing but is maybe 1/16" deep at the worst and maybe 2" long arc. Maybe 3/4" of it is the deep part and the rest less.

So, do I:

1. Leave it alone, it won't be a problem.
2. Put lots of wet rags on and CAREFULLY try welding the deepest part of the cut and then CAREFULLY grind flush, all the while hoping not to use too much heat and warp it.
3. Get new shaft made

This car is not a "hot rod" and I centainly am not planning to do any racing but if its a problem waiting to blow 200 miles from home I don't want that either!

Thoughts welcome.



Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/53byalaketiny.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

Mike Van Veghten
07-09-2007, 03:34 PM
I'd say leave it alown...BUT...

Clean all the paint off of around the cut, repaint it with white paint. That way you can check it easily every so often to make sure the cut isn't growing into a crack.

If it was balanced well...and being the power that you have, and you don't drive it much or very fast...you should be ok.

Then again....
If the money isn't too big a problem...and you drive the car a lot...it should be new tube time for you...!

Mike

StudeRich
07-09-2007, 03:37 PM
Just buy a used '58-'64 Stude. C/K or Hawk shaft and have it cut to fit at front and correct flange/slip joint for Ford welded on.


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

JDP
07-09-2007, 03:55 PM
I gave N8 a lead to a drive shaft guy that made him a custom, small diameter steel shaft for about $200 to solve his floor problem.

JDP/Maryland
64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
63 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
62 Gt Hawk
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

Jeff_H
07-09-2007, 04:41 PM
The one in the car I nicked was custom made for me by a local 'shaft shop. They were concerned about the diameter of it already at the time due to the dia. vs. length ratio (too long and thin has a "critical" RPM issue and could be unstable if I was driving at 100mph or so). I should probably at least bring the shaft back to them and get their opinion (probably sell me another shaft!).



Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/53byalaketiny.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

whacker
07-09-2007, 06:54 PM
I think you should remove the driveshaft, fill the cut with weld, and take it back to the shop to have it rebalanced. Shouldn't cost too much and the confidence you will have afterwards is worth it.

jjones
07-09-2007, 07:59 PM
If you fix it or just leave it alone, I would put a strap of some sort under the shaft to catch it if it does come apart. Remember, if the shaft seperates and the front hits the pavement at highway speeds, things can get real exciting real fast.

jj

Dwain G.
07-10-2007, 12:15 AM
Find out from the driveshaft shop what the tube thickness is. It may not be much more than 1/16".

http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/63.63.jpg
Dwain G.

Jeff_H
07-10-2007, 08:08 PM
"It may not be much more than 1/16"."

You could be right! I've had some rear ends torched out at the junkyard before and the cut off stump of the shaft was not too thick of tubing. I'll have the shaft shop look at it and report back on the verdict in case this ever happens to someone else.... First I have to get my summer driver fixed and moved so I can get the truck out of the garage so I can toss the shaft in the back. Thought I'd fixed the problem with the charging system on that only to find acid boiling out of the battery sunday. Finally got the battery tray neutralized and off the car to wash out the contaminated area. Good thing it cooled off from the 95 deg weather over the weekend since I am driving the winter driver with no AC for the week. What a contrast; they were talking about 40's "windchill" here mid week and it was at least 95 saturday.




Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/53byalaketiny.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

rockne10
07-14-2007, 10:12 PM
quote:whacker
Regal Member



375 Posts
Posted - 07/09/2007 : 5:54:20 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think you should remove the driveshaft, fill the cut with weld, and take it back to the shop to have it rebalanced. Shouldn't cost too much and the confidence you will have afterwards is worth it.
It's hard to argue with that!

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

DEEPNHOCK
07-14-2007, 11:12 PM
Ask yourself one question...
If this were a brake line you knicked....
How long would you take to consider patching it?
The driveshaft is a stressed driveline part spinning at 4000 to 5000 rpm (in drive) right under your butt.
Think about the driveshaft buckling at speed and pulling out of the trans and flapping wildly about under your Stude.
Or even worse... It flops out and locks up your differential at 70 mph...in traffic.
Think about the hundred bucks a driveshaft shop would have charged you to replace the tube.
Then think again about what you just asked.....
Think....
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by Jeff_H

I've always had some troubles with the driveshaft rubbing on my '53 hardtop with ford V6 and AT. Its a 1 pc shaft and the tunnel under the car is pretty tight being designed for a 2 pc shaft... Yesterday, I was working to cut the tunnel in the area where the problem is and weld in some revised metal. Well, my 4" cut-off disk plunged through and nicked the shaft (should have removed it but wanted to see how much I needed to adjust things). I have a cut or deep scratch if you will in the shaft now that does not go through the tubing but is maybe 1/16" deep at the worst and maybe 2" long arc. Maybe 3/4" of it is the deep part and the rest less.

So, do I:

1. Leave it alone, it won't be a problem.
2. Put lots of wet rags on and CAREFULLY try welding the deepest part of the cut and then CAREFULLY grind flush, all the while hoping not to use too much heat and warp it.
3. Get new shaft made

This car is not a "hot rod" and I centainly am not planning to do any racing but if its a problem waiting to blow 200 miles from home I don't want that either!
Thoughts welcome.
Jeff in ND

Mike Van Veghten
07-15-2007, 01:56 AM
As I sorta noted earlier...new drive shaft time.

What I didn't say...to gain clearance. Since you've installed a different engine...do one or both of the following...

Lower the whole engine and trans. without changing the crank line angle...OR...verify your pinion angle and see if you can just lower the back of the transmission enough to gain the clearance required.

I know....this may include oil pan modifications and such but...

Another OR....go back to a two piece drive shaft.

Mike

Jeff_H
07-21-2007, 07:02 PM
UPDATE:

Took the shaft to the shaft shop friday before last to get their opinion. Not good. They did suggest I could try welding it up but it was best to have the tube replaced as they wouldn't do more than drive 'round the block with it as-is. The tube is only something like 0.08" thick and I was probably 1/2 way into it in one spot. I took it home so I could spend the weekend finishing my tunnel surgery and brought it back Tuesday. I picked it up yesterday and put it in. A $155 goof on my part. Put 3 concrete blocks in the trunk and went out on some lonely road and did a full throttle run a couple times to see if it would hit and so far so good. As a side note the shaft guy is building a '52 ford PU and putting a little diesel in it [?]

Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/53byalaketiny.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

52 Ragtop
07-21-2007, 11:42 PM
Glad you resolved your problem, and fixed it right!

Jim