View Full Version : Questions about R1 oil pan - '63 Avanti

07-09-2007, 01:56 AM
OK, so as if the power steering nightmare hasnt been bad enough, while
under the car I have replaced the drivers most rear core plug also. I
finally got the hoses back on, the ram, and the control valve, things
move freely back and forth so I installed the starter tonight. I was
feeling REALLY good, and decided I would closely examine the pass side
core plugs too. The front one looked a little suspicious. I thought
it was built up grease until I stuck a screwdriver in it and found it
was a HUGE gobb of RTV![xx(]

On further inspection I found that the vent tube from the R1 pan is
leaking oil (thought it was the rear main). Its also been leaking in
the garage while just sitting there. The three bolts that hold the
tube to the pan - are they threading into a tapped support inside the
pan - or sheet metal screws, or nuts inside (I hope not)?? The numb
nuts that messed with it last used some of that RTV there also, so it
is no surprise its leaking. Never had any luck with that crap. Where
can you get the gasket from? I suspect I can make one out of standard
gasket material - or I might have one in an old gasket set! I should
check and see - would it come in a standard complete Felpro kit? Also
is the vent tube gasket below the oil level? That would also explain
why it is leaking while sitting.

I assume that I remove the exhaust bolt that clamps it above, and the
three bolts into the pan and it should come off? That will give me the
access I need to get to the two bad core plugs.


PS : Hints on how to get a core plug out that is ONLY the rim left?

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

07-09-2007, 08:33 AM

Yes the nuts are secured on the inside of the oil pan. No sheet metal screws. Unless you have a late model gasket set, it's unlikely that gasket will be in there, but mabe. I would buy some gasket paper and make one. Yes use a good sealer and also on the threads.
You can use part of an old hacksaw blade to cut the old plug lip then peel it out, or knock it out with a punch. As you can see you have much more room on that side. Consider while you have the breather tube off (after taping up the hole) go ahead and replace the other core plugs on that side. After all, you're already there AND nasty [xx(], go on and finish the job.;) Hope this helps. :)
OBTW, thanks for the vote of confidence on the other thread

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

Road Racers turn left AND right.

07-09-2007, 09:14 AM
You may be missing the copper washers under the vent tube bolts and that'll cause a leak.

64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
63 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
62 Gt Hawk
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

Mike Van Veghten
07-09-2007, 12:13 PM
All the pans I've seen have a 1/4" thick "ring" welded to the inside of the pan that has the three tapped holes. This ring not only is the "nuts" but also gives support to the tube.
No seperate nuts.


07-09-2007, 12:30 PM
Tom, There is a 3" X 3" X 3/16" steel plate that is taped for 5/16" X 24 thread. There are only a couple of threads in .185". It doesn't take much to tear them out. Permatex makes a gasket less sealer. The safe way is to remove the pan and do it right.

07-09-2007, 03:04 PM
Its been one thing after another. IT's saying take me out and repair me. Besides its alot easier than woking under the car..;)

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

07-09-2007, 03:06 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I havent even put a wrench on the 3 bolts,
I just wanted to see what I was up against. The way things have been
going I was EXPECTING there to be three individual nuts on the INSIDE
of the pan - that would spin while I try and turn the bolt - OR fall
off inside the pan for later retreival! Now I can remove the vent on
the pan with confidence. I figured that was the case, but wanted to
be prepared. I will check my old gasket sets when I get home. I use
the Permatex "form-agasket" sealer on ALL gaskets, light film on each
side and have yet to have a leak. Probably overkill, but I HATE to
do the same thing twice. BTW, some of the core plugs seem to have
been already replaced with copper, at least thats what they look like.

I guess I will find out, but is it below the oil level while up on a
couple jack stands up front?


07-09-2007, 03:30 PM
No; the breather tube is not under the oil level, nor should it be with a little front tilt, if it were it could not breathe!
If you are concerned, just drain the oil.

S.I. has the gasket and the copper washers for lifter covers, water pump bolts and breather pipes.

Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

07-09-2007, 03:33 PM
Probably not, the lower hole is just about even with the top of the oil level at ride hight. With the front on stands all bets are off. But if your luck is like mine it will be oil in the face. Drain some.

07-09-2007, 05:12 PM
Well, it stands to reason that yes the entire hole cant be under the
oil level, but as mentioned the lower bolt could be, and its possible
the very bottom of the large through hole could be .... but I will not
know until I get it apart. Knowing that the bolts go into something
solid like the drain plug boss helps considerably.

I JUST did an oil change on this thing too![V]