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aj86
04-03-2012, 08:17 AM
I am new here and I joined to see if I can get help from some of you veteran studebaker nuts. This is the story. My fiancee has inherited a 49' champion with 33,652 original miles on it that has been in a barn for 30 years. I was her recent father's show car when he was our age who passed away on February, 2 of this year. I have been placed in charge of getting it fixed up and running again. She wants to get it running and driveable again by our wedding in September because that was what her parents drove the day they were married. We just pulled it out of the barn this past Saturday. We took pictures of us bringing it out and putting it on the trailer too for the first time in 30 years.

So I am asking for everyone help/advice/experiences/etc to help me with this. I am pretty mechanically inclined but I have never worked on a studebaker before. I know as of now that it still has most of the oil in it. Don't know if it is locked up or not. Brakes are shot body is immaculate! Original wheels and tires. Tires shot though. Money is an issue too so if there is parts I need that you all know of a reasonable deal it would be appreciated. I am willing to talk on the phone to anyone also if that helps I don't care. I just want to get it road worthy by September.

warrlaw1
04-03-2012, 09:33 AM
Welcome the the forum, aj. If the rear wheels are stuck, a hub puller would be a big help. There are other methods and you can search the forum. As far as starting the motor, lots of people will chime in and help. I would suggest you disconnect the fuel line and use clean gas from a bottle until you hear it start. There's probably old gas and lots of particulate in the tank. See what's on the dipstick. Parts are available and easy to come by. SDC vendors are the best. Order the shop manual and the parts catalogues. Studebaker International has a great new catalogue. Posting pictures is easy after the first time and you'll be surpirsed what forum member manage to glean from a picture. Nice find.

ST2DE5
04-03-2012, 09:51 AM
aj86 E-Mail sent

showbizkid
04-03-2012, 10:03 AM
Yes, welcome to the Forum! Don't be shy about asking questions - we're eager to help!

comatus
04-03-2012, 12:10 PM
Sounds like you've got two keepers there.
I'm thinking, two cover girls.
We expect updates, you know. And pics.

StudeDave57
04-03-2012, 12:43 PM
First allow me to welcome you to the SDC Fourm!!! I am in sorta the same baot as you. I recently bought a 1950 StudeBus that has not been on the road in nearly 20 years. One place I would 'surf' for tips on getting your car going is here~

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/techtips.asp

If that doesn't get you headed in the right direction- don't be shy- this place is the best place to ask for help. These guys either know the answer, or they know where to find it. Some will give you the shirt off their back if it means getting a Stude back on the road.

Good luck!!!

studegary
04-03-2012, 01:43 PM
Welcome! I strongly suggest joining the Studebaker Drivers Club. It can be done from this site.
From the home page of this site, there is an item on what to do to bring a car back that has been out of use for awhile.
I told my wife, Cathy, about your story. Her parents' first car was a brand new 1949 Champion. Cathy has fond memories of it.

RadioRoy
04-03-2012, 04:25 PM
Welcome to the world of Studebakers! Lots of fun here.

Two pieces of advice I always give to newbies:

1. Don't rush into taking it apart. It's a hundred times easier to take something apart than it is to put it back together. many cars have been "lost" by taking them apart, never getting them back together, and then having the whole mess hauled away years later.

2. research and find out what you have. Don't try to modify anything without knowing what you are doing. the original design worked fine for 60 years or so. if something is broken, fix it, don't modify it.

Good luck!

aj86
04-03-2012, 06:20 PM
First two things I want to address is getting the engine started and fixing the brakes. Is there a place to put a wrench on to see if the engine stuck? And/or should I go ahead and squirt some tranny fluid in the cylinders now and wait a week or two to try turning anything? As for the brakes I know they don't work. The pedal went to the floor and I'm pretty sure the brakes are maybe stuck do to the car is a little hard to move. Any input someone can give me on this? And also if you all want pictures that's ok. I just don't know how to do it. Thanks in advance.

Anyone have an idea of the value of this car?

rockinhawk
04-03-2012, 06:37 PM
I would soak the cylinders down with somthing. Marvel, WD40, or my personal favorite, A 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Then you can put a big socket and pull handle on the front crankshaft bolt and see what happens. I usually take the starter off and pry on the teeth of the flywheel with a big screwdriver. But you must be very careful not to damage the teeth. When you can turn 360 by hand, put the starter back on and spin it with the plugs removed. After it spins freely put some fuel and fire to it and crank it up. Unless the valves are stuck open but they usually free up on there own.

My first car was a 48 Champion Convertible. Wish I still had it.

kurtruk
04-03-2012, 06:39 PM
In your first post you say "it was her recent father's show car." Does that mean he took it to car shows as an original car, or does that mean it has been customized? Value very hard to determine (especially without pictures ;)). I will say you don't have a goldmine there. But the value is what it is. It was a family member's car. That's a really nice thing to have.

kurtruk
04-03-2012, 06:44 PM
The brakes were not a strong point on these cars, but can be made to work adequately if fully renewed. Familiarize yourself with tapered axles, and self-adjusters! Nothing wrong with them. You or a mechanic just may not be familiar with them. Don't modify anything at this point.

jclary
04-03-2012, 06:57 PM
Welcome to the forum and the world of Studebaker.

Here is my '48...

14577

But, before that...it looked like this

14579

and this...
14578

Sounds to me like you Don't have as far to go as I did. There are three manuals available for your car. Shop, body, and chassis...it is the best money you'll spend while getting the car going. Also, check in your region, state, and community. There could be some knowledgeable Studebaker folks nearby who would be willing to "eyeball" the car with you and speed you on your way to gaining a comfort level with the peculiarities of the car. Great to have you here. Good luck with it. :)

rockne10
04-03-2012, 09:13 PM
This article has circulated in Stude circles for years; still the best advice on resurrecting any vehicle.

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tech_things2do.asp

Gary1953
04-03-2012, 09:39 PM
Welcome to the forum and the world of Studebakers.
Visit the Studebaker Drivers Club and locate some members from the Mid MO. Chapter. I know there are several members in the central part of the state that will be a great source of knowledge, advise and parts.

http://studebakerdriversclub.com/lc_MO.asp

aj86
04-04-2012, 07:14 AM
As for my first post when I said my fiancee's resent dad's show car, I didn't clarify very well. He past away feb, 2 2012 of a five week battle of liver cancer. (found out christmas day). That's another reason I want to get it going before our wedding because I know it would mean alot to her. The car has never been modified or anything. It is 100% original.

aj86
04-04-2012, 07:46 AM
Here are some of the pictures i have.

JRoberts
04-04-2012, 07:58 AM
Very nice looking car. I think the advice you can find here should get you on the road before too long. I urge you to join the Studebaker Drivers Club and your local SDC forum. Lot's of help in both places. Good-luck and keep us informed of your progress.

kmac530
04-04-2012, 10:09 AM
Great to have you here on the site, welcome to both of you. I recently bought a '49 Truck that sat for 35 years so I know where you are at here. My truck is/was in a LOT worse shape than your car and I have been able to get actually on the road in 6 months and that was with a full engine rebuild.

My advice here would be don't worry about brakes just yet, they likely will be an easy fix and pretty affordable if the do need any parts. The thing you really need to know is does the motor run because if not, that would be of concern on a budget. Some of my tips have been mentioned already, but I will put them in the order I would do them.

1} Pull spark plugs and put some oil in each cylinder, I like Marvel mystery oil or ATF, or ATF and a bit of acetone mixed. Like 1/2 cup in each cylinder. Let that sit over night.

2} While the cylinders are soaking, I would work on the carb. I would pull it off of the car, just easiest and safer so you dont drop screws down the manifold. Then on a bench take the top off of the carb, gently and slowly, there are a couple springs and a couple check balls down in there that are easy to loose. (get a manual, Stude Dave 57 a couple of post above has them on CD which is nice, for a good price as well) After opening the carb top gently clean out the jets and the float bowl botton, there will likely be gummy gunk in there. Blow out each venturi and port to make sure it is all clean and clear. A carb rebuild lit is $20 to $40 bucks ish depending on what you have. BUt you may be able to reuse what you have in a pinch, at least temporarily just to see if it runs. Re-Install carb.

3} Put a ratchet and a socket on the crank and turn it over by hand. It should make a pop or feel like it cracks loose after some pulling (or it could just be easy) it may be a bit crunchy feeling as you rotate it, but it should stop after a couple of 360* rotations.

4} You will now need a good battery for the next part. 1949 should be 6 volt. They are still available at most auto parts stores, but you may need to order one and it should be available next day. While you may be waiting, take a GOOD look at all of the wiring to make sure there are no bare spots or frayed area to ground out, and that includes behind the dash. Clean you battery cables and the posts of the batt even though it is new. Make sure ALL switches are off, including wipers, ignition, turn signals, and pull the brake pedal back up and wedge it so it can not activate any possible switch. Crank it over a few times with the plugs out. Do not stand there staring from the side, the oil in the cylinder sometimes sprays out.

NOW CHANGE YOUR OIL AND FILTER

5} Turn key on after connecting the battery. Use a test light ( a small cheap tool that connects to a ground and you touch the pointed end on stuff to see if there is power there. Start at the key switch and make sure power is going in and out of the key switch. Check power at the coil. If you have a digital multimeter (if not you can get one at a hardware store for $20-50, good investment with an older car), use it to check the ohms of impedence accross the + & - side of the coil...someone else or your manual can help with the specs for a 6V coil {I am not sure}.

6} Key off now, snap the distributor cap of (anytime during this repair) and check points to see if they are clean, you can use some fine sand paper and gently draw it thru the points facing each side to clean both surfaces. Re-install cap, after looking at the terminals and rotor to make sure they are not burned or corroded.

7} If all checks out, I would install a new set of plugs. I use Autolite, they are pretty cheap and work fine. Make sure all of your plug wires are fully snapped on nice and tight and in the distributor nice and tight.

8} Connect fuel hose to the fuel pump with some kind of funnel or tub to hold some FRESH fuel, do not use the fuel tank just yet.

9} Crank her over and see what happens. Make sure NOT to jump with a 12V car or charge the battery with a charger that does not have a 6V setting. You can use a quick shot of ether or starting fluid {same thing}.

10} if it does not even pop after some cranking pull a spark plug, re snap it into the plug wire and lay it on the top of the motor so that it contacts some steel and grounds, DO NOT hold it with your hand you could get shocked, it wont kill you, but it hurts a bit. I like to do this in a garage or shop with the lights off or after the sun goes down outside, while looking at the end of the spark plug, have someone crank the car over, you should see a blue ish white ish pop of spark shoot accross the tip of the plug between the gap. If not you may want to replace the points and condensor...then maybe the cap and rotor, then maybe the wires and coil...it WILL start.

Unless there is a broken internal part in the motor, they almost always start. I have a VERY high success rate with all kinds of motors doing this process. Make sure all grounds are clean and good is also another good tip.

Once it starts it will smoke for a bit as it burns off the oil in the cylinders. Now that you know it runs, you will have the confidence to get into the brakes. The brakes sound like all of your rubber seals and stuff are rotten and gone. The wheel cylinders and master cylinder will need replacing or at least rebuilding if they are not too pitted. Flush the lines, clean the shoes and drums. Lube up all cables and spring and pivots and contacts and adjusters. Re install drums, bleed brakes, adjust brakes and giver her a spin...2 weeks tops.

Then a serious detail and interior cleaning....back to a show car for wedding.

aj86
04-04-2012, 11:44 AM
Thanks a lot. That list will be a huge help to get started. My only worry is if the engine is free or locked up.

BobGlasscock
04-04-2012, 03:42 PM
Be sure to check the polarity of the battery to ground and hot. It should be a POSITIVE ground.

55 56 PREZ 4D
04-04-2012, 06:43 PM
Be very careful of the Snowball Effect. In otherwords, don't do more than you have to.
I think Gordr said it best,
"Get it so it starts, get it so it stops. The rest is incidentals."
Do 1 system at a time AND DON'T GET IN OVER YOUR HEAD or you will end up in over your head. QUICKLY
You can always do more or a deeper restoration as time permits.
Battery: 6 volt, POSITIVE ground

kurtruk
04-04-2012, 07:55 PM
It is possible that the car was converted to 12 volts. If it still has an old battery in it, as long as it isn't a sealed "maintenance-free type," count the caps on top. Three caps is 6volts, six caps is 12volts. If it is 6volts and you decide to replace the battery cables, do not use modern 12volt cables! 6volt systems need heavier gauge cables. Big, fat beefy ones. 0 (Zero or aught) gauge is great.

aj86
04-04-2012, 08:18 PM
How Ironic...We just read September 8, 2012 is International Drive your Studebaker Day, guess when we are getting married...September 8, 2012...wow

rockne10
04-04-2012, 08:27 PM
Allen,
Why not make contact with your local Studebaker Chapter; see if any other Studebaker drivers would be interested in chauffeuring the wedding party.
Obviously, antique or classic plated vehicles should not be compensated for services but many of us just think it's a fun thing to do, and on IDYSD no less.

jclary
04-04-2012, 08:38 PM
I hope you are able to use the Studebaker on your wedding day. My daughter was married in 1994 and although it took me six years to restore my '48...I got it done in time to drive it to the church for her wedding.

One note of caution about turning your engine. You can get a large socket on the bolt in the front of the crankshaft. I don't recall if it is 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" but it has a rather thin head and the wrench can slip off real easy. When it slips...it lines up your thumbnail perfectly with the water pump pulley. When that happens, you can spend about 5 minutes yelling and cursing as your thumb swells twice its normal size and the nail turns purple. Then you can spend another hour or so soaking the nail in warm water to soften it up while you gently drill a hole in the nail with your other hand.

I have a very good friend that did that once. I see him every time I look in a mirror.:):p:)

Sdude
04-04-2012, 08:59 PM
When you get around to fixing the brakes, make sure you use the proper fluid. It DOES make a difference.

rockne10
04-04-2012, 09:15 PM
One note of caution about turning your engine.
I prefer Neil's method; a pry bar in the flywheel. A softer, gentler attack.
I'm also keen on making certain you can get it to stop before you can get it to start.

CHIEF BLAZE
04-04-2012, 09:44 PM
OK: Here's 2 cents worth from another new guy. All of the directions you are getting are right-on. If you follow the sequence that these posts are giving you, there's no problem.

One note of caution... I know this sounds elementary, but Please be sure to have your ignition wire disconnected from the coil or distributor, and have your battery disconnected. Remember, many oldies used to be crank started. You certainly don't want to crank start, or even experience an ignition kick back, by accident.

If your engine seems to be frozen, give that stuff you spray into the spark plug holes time to work (maybe even a few days) then try again.

Like the posts have been saying, don't be reluctant to ask how to do something, or ask for clarification on directions you are given. I think you will find the Studebaker people here, the most helpful folks you will ever encounter. Best of luck and congratulations on the upcoming marriage and the Studebaker.

Blaze

aj86
04-11-2012, 09:17 AM
Champion update: Pulled the car in the shop last night and parked it in its new home for the next few months. Start to inspect the car a little more. The wiring does need some attention. Any ideas or advice with this? Also thought of sticking the car in first gear and pulling it with the tractor to try to turn the engine. Is that a bad idea or would that be fine? There is no sign of moisture in the oil. Oil looks good for thirty years old. Also need help finding tires for it. Not looking for anything special or new. Just like to find something that holds air. Anyone have anything the wanna sell cheap? The size that's on there now is 7.75x15.

warrlaw1
04-11-2012, 10:04 AM
Better to put the car in third if you are going to pull it, but I'd see if it will turn over with the suggestions above, before getting the whole drive train involved. Thanks for the updates.

ROADRACELARK
04-11-2012, 10:36 AM
It kinda' goes without saying.....if you're going to pull it in efforts to free the stuck engine, by all means, make sure the brakes work FIRST!!

Dan Miller
Auburn, GA

aj86
04-12-2012, 06:41 AM
Update: Great news, the engine is free. Bad news, I have about six bolts to drill out and retap on the exhaust manifold. Does anyone know what that butterfly is on the bottom side of the manifold that has one of those tempature springs on the rod? The plate that holds it in the manifold was rusted out. Anyone have one or know where I can get one? Or even the whole butterfly assembly maybe. Radiator may need repair. Anyone know someone in my area that works on these that is reliable? It appears that it prolly won't take much to get her going again at this point, (knock on wood) once I find the parts to rebuilt the manifold. I think after that a little tune up and a battery and I will try to start her.
Thanks Everyone!!

warrlaw1
04-12-2012, 07:51 AM
That's the heat riser. It's for your choke for cold starts. They are available from S.I. or Fairborn or other SDC vendors. Congrats on getting it turning over. Follow the suggestions posted above and you'll be in good shape.

unclemiltie
04-12-2012, 05:47 PM
Hello, there is a fairly active local studebaker chapter in the Jeff City area. There is one family, the Connor family, which are wonderfully nice folks, and they drive multiple Studebakers. If you need some local advice you might try to contact them. The father drives a brown Studebaker Champ truck with a campershell. Good luck

aj86
04-13-2012, 02:19 PM
Does anyone know if a manual for a 49' studebaker champion that would be the equivalence of a Chiltons Manual. Have everything I need to know in it. Or have one they would want to sell?

Corvanti
04-13-2012, 03:25 PM
a very quick search found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1948-1949-Studebaker-Car-Repair-Shop-Manual-Champion-Commander-47-48-49-/360448216813?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ec634eed

i'm sure some of our vendors here probably have it too! :)

aj86
04-14-2012, 09:21 AM
I'm in need of advice for wiring. I knoticed that here are some bare wires that go between the headlights over the radiator. Anyone have any input on this?

aj86
04-14-2012, 09:23 AM
I'm in need of advice for wiring. I knoticed that here are some bare wires that go between the headlights over the radiator. Anyone have any input on this?

kurtruk
04-14-2012, 10:57 AM
If you just want to get it running, you could disconnect them for now. There is a multi-terminal junction block with screws on the left front fender apron. That supplies the power. Unscrew the terminals and remove the wires going forward toward the headlights and radiator.

kmac530
04-14-2012, 11:35 AM
Glad it turns over.
As to the manual, PM (S). His name is Mike G. and he has most manuals on CD and that is a great way to use it. He included all of the parts books and everything for my '49 truck at a VERY affordable price. With a CD manual, you can print the pages for what you are working on and use them, then when they get greasy of dirty, you just reprint that page. Only print what you need. If you buy a paper manual and are doing a valve adjustment and turn a page and get your nice manual greasy....its is greasy forever. A CD is always good and pages are reprintable. I just print the page or 2 that pertains to todays project and off I go. On top of that it can be blown up which is really nice.

As to the wiring, it is VERY common. The wires on that car are not covered in rubber or vinyl. They were cloth covered and they dry out and just fall off. You will likely need to replace a bunch of wires on the car...if not all of them.

Keep up the good work.

aj86
04-15-2012, 07:45 AM
My local parts store can't get a rebuild kit for the carb on the 49' champion im working on. Anyone know where I can get one?

aj86
04-15-2012, 08:15 AM
Also, does anyone have an idea on what I can use to get all the grease and oil build up off the engine area. Something that won't hurt any seals or other parts. On the wiring, what wiring should I use to replace any existing damaged wires? If I use the need wiring we have today will it hurt the value/charactor of the car?

kurtruk
04-15-2012, 02:58 PM
Please avail yourself with the resources located within this site. MANY vendors listed here: http://www.studebakervendors.com/ will have that carb rebuilt kit in stock.

If you have the typical thick build-up of grease and road grime on the front end, about the only effective removal method is plain old elbow grease!

RE: Wiring: Original style cloth-covered wiring is available. But modern vinyl-covered wire is much more commonly available. Now for the philosophical question...will it hurt the value/character? That's for YOU to decide. If you desire a 400point concours car, maybe. Anything less, no. Any car show, including Studebaker-oriented, would not generally look down on modern vinyl wiring. While cloth-covered replacement harnesses are available ($$$), the readily available, already made harnesses ($$) are vinyl-covered wiring. It's more practical. And it seems like you're intending to keep this family heirloom, not try to garner as much re-sale value or trying for a high-point concours restoration. To ME that would dictate a practical solution so you can just enjoy driving it when it strikes your fancy.
The Concours mentality aint all it's cracked up to be. Those "perfect" restorations start deteriorating as soon as they're finished, and that's without driving beyond the showfield. Who gets more enjoyment from their classic car ownership? I think it's the guy who can hop in the car on a Friday night and take it to the Dairy Queen and not worry about having non-original spark plug wires, etc.

kurtruk
04-15-2012, 03:09 PM
And again, a cautionary note: Unless you're just getting all your ducks in a row ahead of time, we encourage you to work on ONE system at a time. This keeps you focused on a singular goal, and you don't find yourself bogged down in late August with a car mostly torn apart and not knowing what to do next or where to turn. You'll have plenty of other life issues pulling at you at that time!

Join the SDC. Enlist some local help, either Stude folks who are usually more than willing to help with time, advice, and parts, or just old-car guys you might know already. Nothing too difficult with Studes.

Cash
04-15-2012, 09:44 PM
How Ironic...We just read September 8, 2012 is International Drive your Studebaker Day, guess when we are getting married...September 8, 2012...wow

Ya'll need to get to work so you can drive that car on your honeymoon!!....just kidding. Take your time, and welcome to the forum. and the world of Studebaker!

Cash
04-15-2012, 09:51 PM
Please avail yourself with the resources located within this site. MANY vendors listed here: http://www.studebakervendors.com/ will have that carb rebuilt kit in stock.

If you have the typical thick build-up of grease and road grime on the front end, about the only effective removal method is plain old elbow grease!

RE: Wiring: Original style cloth-covered wiring is available. But modern vinyl-covered wire is much more commonly available. Now for the philosophical question...will it hurt the value/character? That's for YOU to decide. If you desire a 400point concours car, maybe. Anything less, no. Any car show, including Studebaker-oriented, would not generally look down on modern vinyl wiring. While cloth-covered replacement harnesses are available ($$$), the readily available, already made harnesses ($$) are vinyl-covered wiring. It's more practical. And it seems like you're intending to keep this family heirloom, not try to garner as much re-sale value or trying for a high-point concours restoration. To ME that would dictate a practical solution so you can just enjoy driving it when it strikes your fancy.
The Concours mentality aint all it's cracked up to be. Those "perfect" restorations start deteriorating as soon as they're finished, and that's without driving beyond the showfield. Who gets more enjoyment from their classic car ownership? I think it's the guy who can hop in the car on a Friday night and take it to the Dairy Queen and not worry about having non-original spark plug wires, etc.

I have to agree with kurtruk here. I got home Friday night from work, found out my daughter Gracie had a sore throat and a low-grade fever. I took the Hawk out and drove to Dairy Queen for some emergency Blizzards..:) My Hawk goes to the grocery store, DQ, out to eat, and occaisionally to work, as well as local automotive events..and she's not perfect, but she's pretty and she's ours.
IMHO, getting the 49 driving safely and reliably would be my biggest goal, everything else is gravy.
Cash

aj86
04-19-2012, 07:06 AM
Lots of people have been telling me about the Conners in Jefferson City,Mo. Does anyone have their e-mail or phone number and/names?

kurtruk
04-19-2012, 04:28 PM
Go back to post #35 and click on unclemiltie user name and private message him.

aj86
04-20-2012, 08:31 AM
Does anyone have a picture of how the lower radiator hose is suppose to look in this car. My parts store order me one and it don't look anything like the one I took out. So I'm trying to figure out which is right. Also, does anyone have a battery hold down bracket for this car? Need an exhaust manifold gasket. Parts store can't get one. And need a thermostat.

warrlaw1
04-20-2012, 08:39 AM
The picture would be in the Chassis Parts catalogue. You need one. S.I. has your battery hold down,gasket and thermostat. You need the S.I. Cataolgue, too. The Body Parts Catalogue will also be a great help.

aj86
04-23-2012, 01:11 PM
I have the water pump rebuilt, carburator convertion kit on the way, heat riser assembly on the way, radiator is at the shop getting looked at for possible repair. Have gaskets and other items on the way as well. If the radiator is not repairable does anyone know where I can find one? Have a little wiring to get done and get started in the brakes. Hoping to get her back together this week and ready for trying to start her early next week.

warrlaw1
04-23-2012, 01:50 PM
I had my original rad fixed and tested but once on the road found it inadequate. My rad shop put in a more modern core using the original tanks. Finer and many more fins, no more problems. Sounds like you are getting ready to hear it roar back to life. Thanks for keeping another one on the road :)

aj86
04-28-2012, 09:37 PM
Anyone know if you can recite an old radiator or can we get a new on for this car?

studegary
04-30-2012, 12:25 PM
Anyone know if you can recite an old radiator or can we get a new on for this car?

An old radiator can be rebuilt. If by "recite", you mean recore, the answer is yes.
You can also find a good used one and perhaps an NOS on.

aj86
05-04-2012, 10:32 AM
Well I got the carb rebuilt and the exhaust dampener I was needing. Retapped about ten holes and repainted everything. Water pump was rebuilt and just came in. Starting to put her back together. Hopeful be getting ready to try to start her later this week. Had some work done on the radiator but don't know if it will work. We just have to see. Anyone have an nos radiator for sale?

aj86
05-16-2012, 11:00 AM
What's the best way to pull the drums off a champion.?

Anne F. Goodman
05-16-2012, 11:08 AM
With a Hub Puller its the only safe way for you and the drums.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Heavy-Duty-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Removal-Remover-/251055782084?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a741738c4&vxp=mtr

studegary
05-16-2012, 01:17 PM
What's the best way to pull the drums off a champion.?

Assuming that you mean the rear drums, do it with a HUB puller (not a drum puller). Search this forum for proper method, like placing the nut back on in reverse at the end of the threads.

aj86
06-19-2012, 07:10 AM
Update on studebaker. Finally got her to fire up last night. she ran a pretty ruff at first. After running her for about 5-10 minutes she started to sound much better. Still have a lot of bugs to work out. But concidering she sat for 30 years without running, I'd say its a win... Planning to start on the brakes tonight and see how that goes. Still a little worried about getting the drums off.

aj86
06-19-2012, 07:15 AM
Something that is bothering me is last night when we got her started, we started to crank the engine the way you should with the key on a pressing the clutch pedal to the floor to hit that switch on the floor. After a few trys to start it this way the button seem to stop working so I just crossed the treminals on the starter soloniod. Do those switches on the floor board go bad often or does someone have another idea.

aj86
06-19-2012, 07:21 AM
Also, does anyone know a good place to get new tires for this car? Hate to drop alot of money in tires that wont hardly get used.

Peanut
06-19-2012, 07:41 AM
AJ86,
I just realized that you and I live in the same city! Where on earth did that beauty hide for 30 years??? Certainly not within our city limits, or one of my family would certainly have heard about it.

You've got a great car there. My humble advice is to get it stopping and running, and then preserve her as-is for a while. She only gets the chance to be an unrestored original once in her life!

Greenstude
06-19-2012, 10:45 AM
Congratulations, aj86!! Having owned and enjoyed a '47 Champion sedan for the past 39 years, I can assure you these are great cars. Just take your time with the restoration, and keep your car as close to original as possible. As others have already said, join the Studebaker Drivers Club and your local Chapter --- a lot of information, advice and help is available here, not to mention friendships!
Some comments from my experience:
1. On a car that has been stored this long, assume that almost anything that is rubber is likely to need replacement. This is especially true for anything that has to deal with pressure, such as tires, coolant hoses, and the oil pressure line which leads from the engine to the oil pressure gauge --- I would replace all of these if it were my car.
2. Switch to radial tires, using a size similar in profile to the original bias ply tires. In my opinion, do not go larger than 195R75-15, as larger tires could be too wide to be safe on the narrow Stude wheels.
3. Do anything you can to avoid using gasoline containing ethanol --- it is poison to old cars.
4. Replace the wiring harness. I purchased one from Studebakers West several years ago, and was totally satisfied with it --- every wire the right length, the right gauge, the right colour and with the right terminals. Your old harness may be a fire hazard.
5. Your vacuum wiper motor will almost certainly need service, as the leather edges of the fins inside are probably dried out. I was very pleased with the overhaul done on mine by Bill Ficken of Babylon NY. When he returned the motor I asked what routine maintenance it should have, and he replied "Use it as much as possible". A properly-serviced vacuum wiper system works very well (with the obvious limitation of slowing when the car is climbing a hill). When taking the motor out, note exactly how the control cable is placed under the retaining screw. (Take a photo!) When re-installing, this retaining screw should be snug, but not so tight that it prevents the wire inside the cable from sliding.
6. Get a catalogue from Studebakers International --- they have many of the parts you are likely to need. There are several other good parts suppliers as well. You will find their ads in "Turning Wheels".
7. Buy a shop manual, chassis parts catalogue and body parts catalogue for your car (1947 to 1950 is the usual range in these.) When you order parts from suppliers, use the original Studebaker parts numbers.
8. When ordering parts, you may be asked for the serial number of your car (the letter G followed by 6 digits, found on a plate on the centre left door post); the body number (8G-W5 plus more digits, found on a plate screwed to the front of the firewall near the top right side); and the engine number (6 digits, found on a boss on the left side of the engine at the top front). 8G = 1949 Champion; W = 4-door sedan; 5 = Regal Deluxe trim level.
9. If you take the wiper arms off the pivots, be sure to replace them exactly as they came off. With wipers that run well but don't have the arms properly placed, it is easy to have the wipers hit the windshield frame. This can lead to breaking the cables that run the wipers (been there, done that!)

Good luck with your car!!
Bill Jarvis

Greenstude
06-19-2012, 10:59 AM
Just saw your question about the radiator. The radiator on my '47 has been cleaned twice in 65 years and 150,000+ miles. The second time the manager of the shop told me it really wasn't needed. Coolng problems are more likely to arise from crud and corrosion in the water passages in the engine block.

Bill Jarvis

Greenstude
06-19-2012, 12:36 PM
Starter buttons are quite reliable. Probably yours has a bit of corrosion in it from sitting so long without use, and is simply stuck down. If it cannot be freed, some of the Stude parts suppliers should be able to provide one.
Another part that is cheap and easy to replace, and which sometimes will stick, is the brake light switch on the master cylinder. I also have seen this problem with floor-mounted headlight dimmer switches.

Bill

aj86
06-20-2012, 07:23 AM
PEANUT we should get together and talk. And she was sitting a barn in Kahoka, MO since 1982.

aj86
06-20-2012, 07:32 AM
We ran the car again last night. Ran better tonight. The night before we ran her and drowned her with tranny fluid to get some lubrication all in her in hopes the rings and valve/lifters will free up. She runs good for sitting for 30 years if you ask me. I believe I have the majority of the rebuild kits and seals required to rebuild the oringinal brakes but will prolly need everyone's help. We worked on the car till 12:30am the night before and 10:30pm last night. This car might kill me before we can drive it in the wedding. haha. My original goal was to have her running by july 4th. so i accomplished my goal a few weeks ahead of time. My goal now is to have her moble (she stops and starts on her own power) by july 15th.

aj86
06-20-2012, 07:37 AM
Also, I know the correct size tires are 195/15r15 to put on car but I found a tire that I think may work. 205/75R15. The shop said it is about 1/8 of an inch taller but not any wider. What is everyones opinion? Just a note, the price of the 195/75R15 are almost twice the price and we don't have a lot of money to stick into fancy things right now with the wedding coming.

swvalcon
06-20-2012, 12:02 PM
If the price is right I would buy them.

64V19816
06-20-2012, 01:07 PM
I think you'll find your restoration work much more fulfilling if you get an Official CASO Hat. I'm certain you qualify!

aj86
06-20-2012, 01:46 PM
What is Caso?

aj86
06-20-2012, 01:48 PM
Anyone know someone/someplace that can rechrome hub caps for something shy of an arm and a leg? Or would it just be just as expensive to just buy new ones?

Corvanti
06-20-2012, 01:58 PM
What is Caso?

a term of endearment used by most here:

"Cheap @&& Studebaker Owner"...

Greenstude
06-20-2012, 03:28 PM
Anyone know someone/someplace that can rechrome hub caps for something shy of an arm and a leg? Or would it just be just as expensive to just buy new ones?

Often, buying new old stock chrome parts is cheaper than getting quality rechroming done --- but '47-'49 Champion hubcaps are very scarce. There is another hubcap, perhaps from about 1958, which is very similar and might be easier to find.

Be VERY careful buffing '47-'49 hubcaps --- it is really easy to go through the thin chrome and leave a brass spot showing.

Be very fussy about who rechromes your hubcaps if you go that route --- get excellent references from people you trust. Only use a shop experienced in doing thin metal. Some shops can rechrome big castings such as bumpers, but destroy thin metal.

aj86
06-20-2012, 10:17 PM
I have found another tire size 205/75R15. Does anyone know if these would work on that 49 champion? Or will it be too tall? Also, what would everyone recommend the value of insuring the car for?

kamzack
06-21-2012, 12:52 AM
I'd run the 205/75R15. Hagerty(website, will quote online) will insure your car for an agreed value. Minium 4500.00 and would be around 290.00 per year, Liability, collision, fire damge, theft, non-insured driver, full coverage. I have my 62 Daytona and 50 Hudson for around 450.00. My Hudson I have @ 6k is bout 330.00. Or ask your current insurance carrier if they have collector car insurance.
Hope this helps,
Kim

aj86
06-21-2012, 01:07 PM
does anyone have a set of hub cap covers for this 49' champion that are in decent shape that they would sell?

aj86
06-25-2012, 06:55 AM
Does everyone thing the clutch will be ok to use after sitting for 30 years?

62champ
06-25-2012, 07:03 AM
Clutch might be fine. If you got it to start then that means you pressed on the clutch. Did anyone try to work the linkage with the motor running (moving in and out of gear with the clutch pushed in)? If it moved in and out of gear then that means the clutch is not frozen to the flywheel.

Only thing you do not know is what kind of condition the clutch was in when the car was parked...

aj86
06-29-2012, 11:50 AM
The clutch is original. The car has 33,000 on it.

aj86
07-05-2012, 10:19 AM
Ok. Need a little help on an issue. Tried to pull the hubs off the car last night but not having any luck. I even soaked them in wd40. I beat on them with a hammer with pressure on them and seems to be doing nothing but starting to booger up the tip of the axle with the puller. Any ideas or advice?

studegary
07-05-2012, 01:41 PM
Ok. Need a little help on an issue. Tried to pull the hubs off the car last night but not having any luck. I even soaked them in wd40. I beat on them with a hammer with pressure on them and seems to be doing nothing but starting to booger up the tip of the axle with the puller. Any ideas or advice?

First thing - You should have reversed the nut to be flush with the end of the axle to prevent damage.
Beat on the puller, not the hubs/drums, with a bigger hammer.

55 56 PREZ 4D
07-05-2012, 04:38 PM
aj86:
WD40 isn't the best for soaking or freeing parts. P B Blaster, Kroil [real good if you can find it], deisel, Marvel Mystery Oil, there are several others. Do a search/ask.
A 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is supposed to be very good. Put it in a spray bottle, shake it up every time you use it.
Even the straight forward things can get complicated, like pulling the rear hubs, IF you haven't done them before.
There is plenty of information when you do a search/ask on this site.
Like studegary said, put that nut back on to protect the threads AND to keep the hub and drum from FLYING OFF and causing damage or physical harm.
You could get hurt.
Make sure you have the correct puller, like the one Anne F. Goodman showed.
Tighten the heck out of the puller, I use two 2lb singlejacks [small sledgehammers] to hit opposite sides of the hub puller bar.
Let it set [hours/a day/overnight] then tighten some more, repeat as needed. Then wait for a sound like a shotgun.
Do a search/ask even for the most basic stuff, there are a lot of knowledgeable,willing, helpful people here.
When you put it back together, make sure you put the key in correctly, torque correctly.

Greenstude
07-05-2012, 05:22 PM
Does anyone know if a manual for a 49' studebaker champion that would be the equivalence of a Chiltons Manual. Have everything I need to know in it. Or have one they would want to sell?

It is virtually essential to have the shop manual, chassis parts catalogue and body parts catalogue for your car. These three books generally cover 1947 to 1950 Champion, Commander and Land Cruiser. Reprints of the original factory manuals are readily available from Studebaker parts vendors.

Peanut
07-05-2012, 06:33 PM
aj86,
Sorry I haven't been able to contact you yet. Life is rather hectic in my household right now. None of us have any post-war Champion parts or literature, except maybe a couple of body panels for a '50, which would not work on your car.

Are you using a proper drum puller (that bolts to three lug nuts)? If not, let me know. I'll message you my cell so you can text me.

aj86
07-07-2012, 10:56 AM
Since we were able to get her running the switch on the floor behind the clutch pedal don't kick the starter anymore. It did once or twice the very first time I did it. Just wondering if these go back and need to replace it or what I should do. I have to cross the terminals on the stater relay to get her to start right now

aj86
07-08-2012, 09:20 AM
We bought a set of 205x75R15 the other day that are almost new for $100. Has anyone else used this size on a champion? I thought the sizes between today's measurements and back then they would be very close... Any input?

aj86
07-08-2012, 09:22 AM
Also, I believe the fuel line has a clog in it somewhere. Is there a way to get this unclogged? I tried putting are to both ends but no luck. Didn't know if I shoot a bunch of carb cleaner in it if it would help.

55 56 PREZ 4D
07-08-2012, 12:33 PM
Probably easier to replace the fuel line. It could be rusted and even if you clear it, it may still clog or leak. Lengths of steel line are available at a good parts store.
Check the tank for schmunga, glop and general indecent substances in the tank and at the fuel line leaving the tank.
When you do the brakes, you probably should replace those hard and flex lines. They could be plugged or rusted.
At the very least look over the hard lines VERY VERY VERY CLOSELY, check for flow and replace the 3 flex lines.
Those are available also.

aj86
07-09-2012, 11:03 AM
Ok my fear came true. There is rust in the gas tank. And the fuel lines are shot. Is there a reliable way to clean out the gas tank? The gas that was still in the car stank to high heaven!!

aj86
07-09-2012, 11:16 AM
Sorry I haven't updated the pictures in a while. Here are some I just took. This is the engine back together and also the status of the car's condition. She is slowly coming together. "Peanut" aka Matt conner is coming out this week sometime to lend a hand with our car in hopes of figuring out a few issues so I can hopefully get he back together by the wedding.

Peanut
07-09-2012, 10:26 PM
I'm happy to report that AJ86 (Allen) and I were able to successfully remove the rear drums with a proper puller borrowed from my brother (thanks, Steve!).

This is a very sound car, and it is hard to believe it spent most--if not all--of its life in Missouri. Except for a simple repaint some years ago, it looks to be completely original. But it is very presentable as a daily driver once the mechanicals are sorted out.

I hope that those of you with experience with these early postwar Champions will offer any help you can to Allen as he continues through this process (and I know you all will). I have encouraged him to begin new threads with topic-specific questions.

He and his fiancee are very fortunate that her father cared for this little gem so well. Here's a pic of the lucky couple after we completed our mission for the evening!
16262
The funny thing is that as I set to installing the drum puller on the first drum, Allen looks at me and comments that I look like someone he used to know. That person was his grade school band teacher--who just happens to be my oldest brother! That brother (Bruce Connor) will be known to some of you from his past appearances with the International meet Studebaker band (tuba, probably). He also owns an unfinished '54 Conestoga that has travelled to a couple of those meets.

aj86
07-09-2012, 10:54 PM
In the picture the car looks worse than it really is, it don't have any tires or a hood or seats or brakes. Well it just needs a lot of work yet but it all is very close to being put back together. She does run pretty good too. Thanks for coming out Matt, you were a life saver.

58PackardWagon
07-09-2012, 11:36 PM
You guys look like a great couple. If I was closer I would help. The biggest thrill for me is bringing an original one back to life. Best of luck and keep the posts coming.

aj86
08-20-2012, 06:38 AM
Just thought I would give everyone an update, figured I owe everyone who has helped me get to the point I am now. Car is almost back together. New tires, new brakes, engine tuned up, gas tank cleaned out,fuel pump rebuilt, carb rebuilt, seats recovered, getting to try to drive her the first time this week.

62champ
08-20-2012, 03:55 PM
Sounds like things are coming along. And help some of us out here - remember that there are many who are visual learners - can never look at enough pictures of Studebakers.

Now the hardest part is ahead for you - realizing that you eventually have to stop and do other things in your left besides driving around in your Studebaker. Enjoy!

aj86
08-21-2012, 09:10 AM
Here are some up dated pics. I will try to post more tonight. Stand by.

aj86
08-21-2012, 09:14 AM
The rear tires and hub caps go on tonight. New seats went in last night. I will get pics of that too. Fuel pump comes in this morning so I an going to try to get her running again tonight as well. We see though. I have a full plate. Lol. I will try to get a lot of pics tonight for everyone.

aj86
08-22-2012, 08:02 AM
As promised here are more pics.

jclary
08-22-2012, 08:31 AM
I absolutely love the fourth pic showing the 3/4 view of the car and the clutter surrounding it. To me...that captures what it is all about...labor of love...depicting the average SDC environment. A not so flashy car being nurtured by an average Joe amid signs of a real life to attend to.

That, my friends, would make a Turning Wheels or Calendar picture with which we all could identify.:):!!::)

kurtruk
08-22-2012, 06:23 PM
And let's remember: This is all to get the car ready to drive in their wedding, September 8th! (IDYSD) So yes, he has real life to attend to.

Allen, I hope the fiancee has been understanding with all the time you're spending on this project, and you get all the grease out from under your fingernails for the wedding day! :!:

aj86
08-23-2012, 12:23 AM
Awesome new guys! I took the head off and the manifold and valve covers and found out that it had a stuck cable on #3 fixed that cleaned the tops good and adjusted all the valve we they needed to be. Now she runs smooth but still has that little hesitation we you rev it up. I'm thinking it just needs to be ran good.

JimC
08-23-2012, 02:29 AM
Way to go. I've been reading your progress, and this is coming along great! Keep up the good work.

aj86
08-23-2012, 06:46 AM
Here is what I found when I opened her up last night and put her back together.

62champ
08-23-2012, 07:41 PM
still has that little hesitation we you rev it up. I'm thinking it just needs to be ran good.

I think NOT running these old engine many times does more damage that getting out and stretching their legs.

If the slight hesitation is immediately when the accelerator is activated, it might be the accelerator pump in the carb - it give the intake a good squirt of gas so there is not a big hesitation after the pedal is pressed.

Thanks for the updates and it looks like things are moving along...

aj86
08-23-2012, 08:14 PM
She drives! And drives good. Clutch seems to have great grip, goes straight down the road. She does have ok acceleration but the carb starts to cut out a lot after a few rpm's. Not sure what that is. Thinking carb related but it was completely rebuilt. Here are some pictures after our little drive. First time she has pulled her own weight in 30 years.

Corvanti
08-23-2012, 08:26 PM
very cool!!! :!:

probably carb, but maybe electrical - timing, points, etc?

jclary
08-23-2012, 09:13 PM
Check your vacuum advance diaphragm. Make sure it is working properly. That can cause hesitation on acceleration and if it has a big enough leak, rough running similar to an intake gasket leak.

aj86
08-23-2012, 09:29 PM
It will idle like a kitten with no issue. It's when you rev it up and/or drive it and at a certain point it just cuts out and spudders unless you let off the gas. The stuck valve fix issue definitely helped a lot but it still has something else holding it back from running at its peak.

62champ
08-23-2012, 10:01 PM
Points gap can give those kind of symptoms as well.

aj86
08-23-2012, 10:14 PM
What is the proper setting for the points?

jclary
08-24-2012, 06:47 AM
You need a shop manual. However, even though it's early...I managed to shuffle back to my "Man Bookcase" (where you'll soon discover...after the wedding...some are more suitable for show) and retrieve my 1956 Motors Auto Repair Manual. I didn't see the '48 Studebaker shop manual, so this one will have to suffice.

It indicates that breaker point opening (inch) Plus or minus .002 should be set at .020

aj86
08-28-2012, 06:58 AM
I have been thrown a bone. The local studebaker club VP gave me a hand last night to figure out that my points were "floating" causing the car to loose power at higher rpms. The new ones I bought were made without the spring. So, I owe a huge thanks to him, thanks Brian. He knows his stuff. I have 11 days to get her back together and finished. No pressure. Anyways i hope the wedding will be a success with the car. Sounds like there will be several local STUDEY lovers showing up for the drive on our wedding for the surprise for my future wife as an honoring of her father passing in febuary to a 5week battle of cancer. This car that I have been resurrecting was his pride and joy. So hopefully he will see us driving it.

Peanut
08-28-2012, 07:35 AM
I'm so glad Brian was able to help. I knew he'd probably be able to save you!

aj86
08-28-2012, 07:39 AM
Thanks for your help as well Matt.

55 56 PREZ 4D
08-28-2012, 10:20 AM
I don't remember mention of it, but just to be on the safe side you may want to install a flow thru electric fuel pump.
At least put it on a manual switch so you can turn it on if needed.
Vapor lock.
It still could be hot that time of year.

deco_droid
08-28-2012, 11:43 AM
Been following this thread and think it's great you guys are doing this. I didn't own a classic car at the time of our wedding, but would have been a neat thing to do. Best of luck to you.

radiotech
08-28-2012, 12:01 PM
In case you haven't taken care of the starter/ swich problem yet, take the switch off the car and go to a NAPA store. Those switches were used on a LOT of tractors and industrial equipment for a lot of years. The differences in them is the length of the stem. You should be able to get new ones with no problem. Also, this type of switch does not use a solenoid or relay, the battery cable goes to one side and the starter cable to the other, there should also be a #10 wire going to the side the battery cable goes to, this supplies power to everything but the starter and horns. Good luck, looks like you're winning the battle!

aj86
08-28-2012, 12:19 PM
I have another switch coming in the next day or so. A man out of st. Louis is giving me some parts to help and then the local VP of the chapter in town is helping us also with some parts to get her ready for the 8th, plus he's the one who was nice enough come out till almost midnight last night and help me figure out that the points I bought new were made wrong. So, big thanks to Brian and everyone who is helping us with parts. Gonna be hard to repay everyone.

aj86
09-03-2012, 09:01 PM
Just got Dolly all back together. New exhaust on her a couple hours ago and took her out and drove her for about an hour. She did great! She all ready for the big day in five days. Tomorrow she gets all cleaned and beautified, waxed and shined up, and fully detailed. I'm exited. Hope to have a good turn out at the drive for the wedding on Saturday.

kurtruk
09-03-2012, 10:25 PM
Tomorrow she gets all cleaned and beautified, waxed and shined up, and fully detailed. I'm exited. Hope to have a good turn out at the drive for the wedding on Saturday.

Now the Groom needs to do the same!!! :woot::woot:

aj86
09-26-2012, 06:47 AM
Sorry about the delay guys on the photos from the wedding. Waiting for the photographer to finish editing them. Should have them anytime.

Skybolt
09-26-2012, 08:11 AM
Can't wait.

aj86
09-27-2012, 06:46 AM
We are suppose to get them today.

RadioRoy
09-28-2012, 12:14 PM
Are you and your brother one of the two young men who always brought an in-process 54 Conestoga to the national meets? The car was always undergoing some sort of mechanical restoration/modification and I always marveled at the spirit, mechanical aptitude, and just plain fun loving attitude of those two young men and their friends.

Peanut
09-30-2012, 10:05 PM
RadioRoy,
I think you're talking about my oldest brother Bruce (with the Conestoga), and my younger brother, Steve -- usually accompanied by our friend Brian Kujath.
~Matt

aj86
10-31-2012, 05:50 PM
18641186421864318644186451864618647186481864918650At Last...The Photos!

Corvanti
10-31-2012, 06:05 PM
she's beautiful!!!

and your wife ain't bad, either... ;):cool::lol:

aj86
10-31-2012, 06:51 PM
18654186551865618657186581865918660
and a few more...

jclary
10-31-2012, 06:57 PM
Absolutely fantastic pictures! Beautiful bride and terrific attitude comes across in the expressions of all. Perfect example of life in the heart of America.

Best to the both of you as you sojourn this life together. Your launch vehicle for the journey is an excellent choice.:)

raidmagic
10-31-2012, 08:07 PM
Dude awesome story and great work getting it done in time. I understand your time crunch. Many moons ago I was working my butt off to get my Vette painted so that we could leave the wedding in it. It worked out and I still have the car today.
Nice touch on the picture of the father-in-law on the bouquet, he would have been proud of you guys for getting it back together.

Best of luck to you in your marriage I don't know where I'd be without my wife.

aj86
11-01-2012, 01:59 PM
Everything worked out great. Couldn't have had a better day to get married. Weather, wedding, reception was all perfect. I couldn't have finished it in time with out some local help from Brian Kujah and Matt Connor. As well as everyone's help on the forum. Thank you all who gave me parts to get this show on the road. My wife is happy. We bought another champion in California that we are waiting to get shipped here. Hopefully it sol be here within a few weeks.

avantilover
11-01-2012, 05:35 PM
Congratulations from all of us in Australia, a long and happy life to you and the cars.

deco_droid
11-02-2012, 10:05 AM
Everything worked out great. Couldn't have had a better day to get married. Weather, wedding, reception was all perfect. I couldn't have finished it in time with out some local help from Brian Kujah and Matt Connor. As well as everyone's help on the forum. Thank you all who gave me parts to get this show on the road. My wife is happy. We bought another champion in California that we are waiting to get shipped here. Hopefully it sol be here within a few weeks.

TWO Studes?!? Wow, what kind of Champ did you buy?

studegary
11-02-2012, 12:52 PM
TWO Studes?!? Wow, what kind of Champ did you buy?

He indicated that he is getting another Champion (car), not a Champ (truck).

aj86
11-02-2012, 01:36 PM
It is a 49' champion.

deco_droid
11-02-2012, 02:18 PM
He indicated that he is getting another Champion (car), not a Champ (truck).

alrighty then...

Peanut
11-04-2012, 08:00 PM
Allen,
See, that's how it begins. One just isn't enough! Haha!

aj86
11-13-2012, 08:26 AM
I've been down this road before lol. I would like to find a 40-50's truck to get together to make a daily drive sometime. Just gotta find the one and have enough money to get it when it shows itself