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factory rear sway bar onto an early Lark

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  • Rear Axle: factory rear sway bar onto an early Lark

    This is a funny story, only because I have already figured out a fix.

    I installed a 65 Mustang rear axle (already had a 4.11 posi, aftermarket flanged axles, and about an inch narrower than the 27 I took out of my 60S F4) and decided to see how easy it would be to install a 50's Stude rear sway bar. I already had put on heavy duty spring plates, with flanges to accept the sway bar links.

    Other than having to remove an exhaust bracket bolt from the frame, the bar itself went on very easily. Popped in new bushings from SI, went to put the links on each end. Hmmm I said: They appear to be about 2" too short!

    After about 30 seconds of head scratching, I realized I had done this to myself when I put in 2" lowering blocks to get the right stance.

    Solution: have the links extended (my local fabricator/welder will have no problem making longer links), and viola, a super easy improvement!

    And I already had installed the later front bar and stands.

    Progress is being made, someday it will be a driver AGAIN!!
    sigpic
    JohnP, driving & reviving
    60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

  • #2
    I think we need some pictures! Glad you are making progress.
    Pat Dilling
    Olivehurst, CA
    Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


    LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

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    • #3
      The links should not have to be extended. Your spring plates should be in the origional location under the springs and just the axle moved with the lowering blocks. I have that setup under my Speedster with 2in. blocks.
      Klif
      55 Speedster/Street Machine
      63 Avanti R2
      64 Convertible R1

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      • #4
        the bar bangs onto the top of the axle. I'll post pix

        Unless I've got it on upside down, but if I did, the "hoop" would be right in line with the driveshaft.


        after looking at the pictures here: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...-Sway-Bar-Help

        I realize I have it on right-side-up, but the bar hits the axle housing with the links still at least 1" short of slipping into the holes in the spring plates.
        Last edited by allstateguy; 02-29-2012, 02:04 PM.
        sigpic
        JohnP, driving & reviving
        60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

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        • #5
          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1672041Sorry about the poor picture quality, I held the link with my steady hand and the camera with my shaky one.
          sigpic
          JohnP, driving & reviving
          60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

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          • #6
            John, while this is not your problem with the swaybar, you might want to take a another look at the u-bolts. In the pictures they look too big for your axle tubes (radius of the u-bolts a good bit larger than the radius of the axle tubes).
            Paul
            Winston-Salem, NC
            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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            • #7
              I agree with Paul on the Ubolts, you need some with a smaller radius. That will also require adjustment to your spring plates. And I think once you lift the rear end into it's ride height position the swaybar may come a lot closer to hooking up.

              Pat
              Pat Dilling
              Olivehurst, CA
              Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


              LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

              Comment

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