View Full Version : Other: Need help with Belt Moulding Removal

02-11-2012, 04:51 PM
I am trying to remove the belt mouldings on my 61 Hawk. The ones under the windshield appear to have studs with a nut. Hopefully they will not be a problem once I get the dash out.

The ones on the door and under the little pop out window are proving to be a big problem. I can't get my hands in there to push the spring wire clips out from the inside, and just a small amount of pressure prying the moulding from the side cause the spring wire clips to break off the bottom of the moulding.

How are these supposed to be removed??

Can the wire clips be re-attached to the moulding?


02-12-2012, 09:16 AM
On my 61 the belt moldings on the cowl had nuts on them which i got off without removing the dash. I used a strong blade putty knife to get the moldings off the doors. I slowly worked them off so as not to break the moldings. I put on new moldings so I did not care that several clips came off. I have used JB weld to attach the clips to the molding on other hawks with success. Good luck

02-12-2012, 11:59 AM
Don't try and remove those mouldings (spring clips) dry. Try to get spray lube on them from the topside or bottomside, and allow it to soak in a bit before attempting removal.

02-12-2012, 02:17 PM
Be careful on the two end pieces next to the wiper. There is a screw on the very end that you can access by opening the door. Then once its unbolted and the screw is out, work it ever so gently to remove it. Some break or become distorted when pulled off in a hurry.

02-12-2012, 05:07 PM
I got all the cowl mouldings off today without damaging anything. I am still dreading the ones on the door and rear fender. I know one of the clips is already broken off because the end of the moulding is loose and I can lift it enough to see the clip is in the door.

These clips have slots in them where they mount to the little studs on the bottom of the moulding. Were they able to slide back and forth on those little studs when the mouldings were new or were they clamped tight? Just curious how accurately I have to place them when I re-attach them.

I am thinking about a little 2 part epoxy and trying a little solder on the stud and onto the clip. Instead of JB weld I was thinking about some of the adhesives that some people use to glue in replacement sheetmetal patch panels.

Thanks for the help.

02-12-2012, 05:14 PM
I think the panel adhesive is too strong for this application. I don't think you would never be able to remove the molding again without destroying it. Silicone caulk will hold it in place, yet allow removal in the future.

02-12-2012, 07:19 PM
Maybe I didn't explain it very good. My intention was to use panel adhesive to re-attach the spring clips to the moulding. Once it is cured, I will re-install the moulding in the normal way. I am assuming the panel adhesive will bond to the pot-metal moulding.

02-12-2012, 08:00 PM
There were a couple of different mounting methods and clips for the molding on the doors. Sure would be helpful to be able to see what you see.
"Clips that mount on studs"? If they are what I think they are, they are available. "Spring mounted clips"? Available.

02-13-2012, 08:33 AM
Here is a photo of the clip I am talking about. It is just sitting on the little "studs" or maybe guide pins is a better name. The L bracket on the right appears to still be attached in the original way. My thought was to put a little panel adhesive under the center of the clip and then clamp it in place until the adhesive sets up.

My concern is about the placement on the little studs. The slots in the clip allow the clip to positioned anywhere within about a 1/16" range. How critical is this position? Being a spring wire clip, I don't think it matters that much, I just wanted another opinion.