Brakes: update '40 hyd. brakes

[studeluvr]

It appears to be quite easy to put a dual reservoir master cylinder in the 40 Champion. I have a spare from a 64 Cruiser. Build a few brackets and it's in. Will the wheel cylinders handle the new pressure. Can the wheel cylinders be upgraded. Are there other issues I fail to realize until I'm in deep?

[avantilover]

I'm not a mechanic Douglas but I can't see that a dual reservoir master cylinder would increase pressure unless it was a power brake system.
In any case, a look on page 258 of the latest Studebaker International catalog shows part number 197118 1939-49 Champion front (1") $43.95 ea and 197120 1939-53 Champion rear & 1951-53 Commander rear (7/8") $63.30 ea Wheel Cylinders. May as well renew the system- cylinders and lines as well then you know all is ok.

Good Luck

John Clements/Avantilover

[studeluvr]

Howdy John, I have a spare frame and running gear to mock up new ideas and new lines, rubber hoses and make a dual master cylinder work. I'd prefer to keep most of the ol' girl stock but I want to stop first. I'll check out the SI catalog its here somewhere. Thanks

[avantilover]

A nice car with lots of "go" but no "whoa" isn't much use. I'm sure your dual system setup will work fine, brake shops should be able to advise otherwise The Antique Studebaker mob (Richard Quinn used to edit their publication) can advise as I'm sure they must have done the same thing.

[Chris_Dresbach]

I've thought about putting a dual master cylinder in my '40. Haven't quite figured out how yet... So far I haven't had any major problems with the original single master cylinder... And the one I did have I corrected immidately. Take tech photos if you put a '64 MC on your car, I'd be interested in seeing how that could be done.

[nvonada]

I think all you are going to buy is redundancy. I would not expect any improvement in braking. It still might be worth it. Every time I push that brake pedal I am planning what to do if it hits the floor...

[jclary]

....... Will the wheel cylinders handle the new pressure...........

If you have "new pressure," count your blessings! Any additional stopping gain should merely give you more confidence in driving the car. At worst, the brakes might grab, drag, or be "touchy." However, I doubt that you will overstress the "over-built" wheel cylinders. There are plenty of other parts to be worried about...like the small shoes and thin drums. I think the main thing you will gain is an added level of safety by having the dual reservoir in the event that one failed.

[Neal in NM]

I replaced my front brakes with disc and a new master but, I still have the original rear slave cylinders in place (M-16 1948). There seems to be no problem with pressure. The only issue I have is the rear brakes lock up well before the disc brakes which I should be able to correct by using an adjustable proportional valve. Neal

[63 R2 Hawk]

The bore diameter of the new dual master cylinder needs to be the same diameter as the old one, if it is larger, the pedal travel will be significantly reduced, if the diameter is smaller, the pedal travel will be increased, possibly to the extent that it won't fully expand the wheel cylinders before it runs out of travel. A simple measurement of the old vs new mc bore should tell you if it will work or not.

[studeluvr]

Thanks 63 R2 Hawk Thats the kinda stuff I was looking for. So I'll pull the spare M/C apart and a wheel cylinder and check the bores. That ought to be easy enough and I'll update this post. My spare frame and running gear is from a 41 Champion. The brakes ought to be pretty darn close as the 40. I might be sick but this forum is my porn. I do enjoy all the feedback saves me a lot of OH! --------!