Fuel System: SI Mechanical Fuel Pump

[DocHemi]

One of the previous owners installed an electric fuel pump on my 57 Silver Hawk. This would be good EXCEPT it was mounted about 3 inches from the carburetor therefore way too high up. I think from overworking itself all this time it's starting to go out. That or the questionable wiring of the pump. I finally decided just to put a mechanical pump on it but I've been reading all these stories about the arms needing bent, leaking oil, etc. Has anyone used a mechanical fuel pump from Studebaker International? Specifically PN: 1562992.

[Bud]

Any of the new replacement pumps, and it doesn't matter which vendor supplies it, are prone to oil leaking and arm problems. I have been rebuilding the original Carter pumps with upgraded parts for my cars as they don't leak and the arm is correct. Bud

[Chucks Stude]

Since you are started down the road to an electric fuel pump, you might as well finish it(IMHO). I had trouble with vapor lock in the heat that is Texas, so I put in an electric fuel pump. I left the original mechanical pump, but took all of the guts out of it(arm, valves etc.) and put a thin metal plate between it, and the engine, and a gasket on both sides of the metal plate. I left the diaphram in place. The thing looks totally original. The electric fuel pump is located by the gas tank, and power is run from the ignition switch. I procured a used Ford roll over switch, that I mounted in the trunk, so if the car is ever in a wreck, or rolls over the pump gets shut off. Has worked well for me, it required no regulator or extraneous hardware. Just a thought.

[tbirdtbird]

Bud, where are you getting these parts from?

[showbizkid]

There was a great article in TW last year - can't remember which issue - in which the merits of various electric pumps were called out and mounting styles / electrical hookups discussed. Generally it's accepted that the best place for mounting is inside the frame rail, to the rear of the car where the rubber fuel line connects the tank to the steel line that runs up the frame. This keeps the pump out of the hot engine compartment and "pushes" gas up the line, rather than "pulling" it.

Maybe someone who has the Index in front of them can call out the specific issue?

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Interestingly enough, the aftermarket mechanical fuel pumps on the market today have actually corrected the previous problems of oil leakage due to loose pivot pins. I personally don't stock and sell Airtex fuel pumps any more - not because of oil leakage but because of a more than occasional problems with low pressure. For the last 4 or 5 years I have only sold (and personally used) Carter brand fuel pumps - and I have not had a single problem or had any customer complaints with the Carter pumps. The Carter pumps may possibly be some other brand of pump re-boxed, but they are clearly not Airtex pumps. These pumps have the pivot pin ends well expanded, even over a washer, so they are not going to be moving sideways and leaking.

[Bud]

tbirdtbird, I've been buying rebuild kits from Then and Now automotive in Massachusetts. They have rebuild kits for most fuel pumps and carburetors ever produced. If you can't find their website, I'll look in my files for their address. Bud

[SN-60]

Yes, some airtex 4227's will work OK, but have a nasty habit of oil leaking out the vent hole, making the front crank seal suspect.

[tbirdtbird]

Thanks, Then and Now looks like a good resource

http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm

[DocHemi]

I was planning on rebuilding my original pump until I took it off and found that the arm had been removed. I need to check the box of extra parts that came with the car but I'm not holding my breath. I just figured SI would have a fuel pump that would work well on my car.

[blackhawk61]

I put one of Phil Harris's (Fairborn Studebaker) on mine 2 years ago . NO problems !