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Prestolite Alt. replacement

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  • Electrical: Prestolite Alt. replacement

    Last week, my '65 Cruiser Prestolite alternator brush holder came loose and was smashed to bits. No other damage fortunately, and my battery was fully charged and I was only a few miles from home. I have been looking at the Honda Civic conversion discussed here. My concern is heat since the honda Civic alt runs counter clockwise. We have had 114 days of 100+ degree weather in southeast Texas this year. I began looking at other import alts. I found these 2 that seem to be good candidates and I will order one this week.
    Beck Arnley #186-0749 and Autozone Duralast #14591. I have felt that the 35 Amp Presto unit was not powerful enough for my A/C system, so I thought I would look at a 45 Amp unit. These fit 1969-74 Toyota Land Cruisers, 1979-82 Honda Accords. If we had a decent Automotive recycler nearby, I might check there

    Duralast--Autozone-45Amp, plug code 140, CLOCKWISE rotation, about 10 mm larger diameter than the Presto, lifetime warranty
    BeckArnley-Oreilly- same but just 1 year warranty, and the online pic seems to have a different pulley (??)

  • #2
    I did a GM 55amp I believe, easy swap. a lot easier that the tech article I read on doing it
    Mark Riesch
    New Bern, NC

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    • #3
      I've done the Delco and the Chrysler swaps in other cars.....the nippondenso looks a lot like the presto, and my '65 has a period aftermarket Monkey Wards A/C set up and space is at a premium....
      Stop by the Studebaker Acre again sometime, Mark.
      Jim

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      • #4
        Well I got the Duralast and then woke up to the fact it is going into a '65 (BRAINFART!)....so I took the Delco out of the '63, put it into the '65 and put the new duralast into the '63....all works fine. Did not have to embarrass myself in taking the Duralast BACK to Autozone. The McKinnons run ccw Studes are clockwise. I also got the Chrysler alternator out of grandpa's donor car ( last run in 1984). cleaned it up and spent $1.97 for new brushes.... had it tested.....works fine. I think I will use it on my 1959 Lark 6 driver.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Jim Beard View Post
          Well I got the Duralast and then woke up to the fact it is going into a '65 (BRAINFART!)....so I took the Delco out of the '63, put it into the '65 and put the new duralast into the '63....all works fine. Did not have to embarrass myself in taking the Duralast BACK to Autozone. The McKinnons run ccw Studes are clockwise. I also got the Chrysler alternator out of grandpa's donor car ( last run in 1984). cleaned it up and spent $1.97 for new brushes.... had it tested.....works fine. I think I will use it on my 1959 Lark 6 driver.
          Good thing I did not attempt to install a Delco 1 wire alternator on my Stude 259 in place of the generator; this was before I 'pulled the trigger' and dropped in a 350 Chevy.
          --------------------------------------

          Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

          Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

          "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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          • #6
            1962larksedan....If you used a 1998 or newer 350, drop the pan NOW and replace the oil pump shaft with a decent aftermarket from say Melling. The 350 was a good motor until they cheapened it with lots of plastic. The factory oil pump shaft collar is made overy thin NYLON! The heat of the oil/motor degrades the nylon and will leave you with NO oil pressure.Then either rebuild it or buy a crate motor. I found this out the hard way with my 1998 Suburban.

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            • #7
              McKinnons run the same direction as Studes. The distributor runs backwards on the Chevys .
              Jamie McLeod
              Hope Mills, NC

              1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
              1958 Commander "Christine"
              1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
              1955 Commander Sedan
              1964 Champ
              1960 Lark

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              • #8
                Every Studebaker uses an alternator with a clockwise cooling fan. Clockwise means looking at the front pulley, and it should be noted that the cooling fan pulls air through the alternator from the rear - it does not push air from the front. For a Nippondenso replacement, the Lester number is 14540, which fit a variety of late 1970's to early 1980's Hondas, Toyotas, and Isuzu I-Marks. The Toyota and Isuzu applications are all the desired clockwise fan, but the Hondas may be clockwise or counterclockwise, usually depending on whether they were equipped with factory air conditioning. Thus, the problem is, when you buy a 14540, it may or may not come with a fan and pulley, and if it did, it could be a CCW fan. The instructions are to tranfer the fan and pulley as needed - which is fine if you are replacing a Nippondenso alternator - which we Studebaker owners are not.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 1962larksedan View Post
                  Good thing I did not attempt to install a Delco 1 wire alternator on my Stude 259 in place of the generator; this was before I 'pulled the trigger' and dropped in a 350 Chevy.
                  Will a GM 1 wire Alternator "Not" work on a stock 289 as a direct replacement for the "Generator??
                  Good Roads
                  Brian
                  Brian Woods
                  woodysrods@shaw.ca
                  1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by woodysrods View Post
                    Will a GM 1 wire Alternator "Not" work on a stock 289 as a direct replacement for the "Generator??
                    Good Roads
                    Brian
                    a GM 1 wire Alternator "will" work on a stock 289 as a direct replacement for the "Generator.
                    Jerry Forrester
                    Forrester's Chrome
                    Douglasville, Georgia

                    See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jim Beard View Post
                      1962larksedan....If you used a 1998 or newer 350, drop the pan NOW and replace the oil pump shaft with a decent aftermarket from say Melling. The 350 was a good motor until they cheapened it with lots of plastic. The factory oil pump shaft collar is made overy thin NYLON! The heat of the oil/motor degrades the nylon and will leave you with NO oil pressure.Then either rebuild it or buy a crate motor. I found this out the hard way with my 1998 Suburban.
                      Originally posted by woodysrods View Post
                      Will a GM 1 wire Alternator "Not" work on a stock 289 as a direct replacement for the "Generator??
                      Good Roads
                      Brian
                      Pardon the thread hijack here: the 259 originally in my Lark had so many issues that I bolted in a 1974 Chevy 350 that I knew the history of so its alternator is along for the ride.............literally.
                      --------------------------------------

                      Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

                      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View Post
                        a GM 1 wire Alternator "will" work on a stock 289 as a direct replacement for the "Generator.
                        Thanks Jerry
                        That is what I thought and was hoping to hear it from someone else!
                        Good Roads
                        Brian
                        Brian Woods
                        woodysrods@shaw.ca
                        1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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