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What problems should I look for on a 1950-1951 Commander/Land Cruiser?

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  • What problems should I look for on a 1950-1951 Commander/Land Cruiser?

    My parents are former South Bend Studebaker employees. I've never owned or restored a Studebaker, but would like to have a piece of my hometown in the garage since so many of my family worked for Studebaker.

    I have an opportunity to buy what may be a 1951 Commander Land Cruiser. The current owner has only recently decided to put it up for sale, but he has not advertised it yet, so I may be the first to look at it.

    I am planning to go look at it tomorrow morning (25 Nov 2011, day after Thanksgiving). Can anyone please give me advice as to where I should be looking for the identification plates and specific problems (like rust-prone areas) so I can judge its present condition? I am an aircraft mechanic, so I am not mechanically inept. I just need to know where I should be looking.

    I've only seen the car once in passing and immediately recognized it as a 1950 or 1951 by the bullet nose. It is a 4-door. I've spoken with the current owner by telephone, and this is what I know so far:

    He believes it is a 1951 Commander Land Cruiser. He believes the car came from South Dakota and was moved to western Washington State. He believes the engine is seized. He believes there are no rust holes in the body, and the only rust is just surface rust on the exterior. He has the South Dakota title. Other than that, he doesn't know much more.

    If I decide i do not want to buy this car, I will ask the owner for permission to post his contact information and pictures of the car so if any of you are interested you can contact him.

    Thanks for your time and any advice you can provide.

    Mark
    Last edited by Mark L; 09-20-2015, 01:29 PM.
    Mark L

  • #2
    Big difference between 50 and 51. With a 51 you'll have a V8 and modern suspension. If a 50 you'll still have a bullet nose. That was the hughest production year so parts cars should be everywhere. Good find.
    Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

    Comment


    • #3
      As Dave says--the 50 would have the big Commander Six, which actually put out about the same hp as the 1951 introduced V8 did. The 50 Commander/Land Cruiser is the longest wheelbase post-war Studebaker and although the Champion and the Commander/Land Cruiser look similar, the front end sheet metal is Commander/Land Cruiser specific, due to the long in-line big six.

      The 50 brake "problems" that are usually mentioned I think are more apparent on the Champions than the Commander/Land Cruisers, as the bigger cars were always more robust. This carried over to about 54 when the Champions finally had decent-ish brakes, although there were a few changes in different years. The 50s, both in brakes and suspension, is a one year only design

      The serial number should be on a plate inside the driver's door, visible when you open up the door. On the cowl under the hood there would be the body tag
      If you go through the items on this page: http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/techtips.asp you can figure out the exact year and model. The serial number, body number, and engine number are all different. If you get the production order from the Studebaker National Museum, it will give you details how the car was built, optioned etc.

      They are lovely cars--I would gladly have any 47-54 Land Cruiser, but I especially like the 50 and 51 versions. The 51 also has a "bullet nose", but its a bit different from a 50.

      Even if the engine is 'seized' it may be recoverable. Studebaker engines are good that way. Lots of threads and advice here.. just look and ask

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the information.

        From other research I've done, I know the V-8 was introduced in '51, and the outer ring on the '51 bullet should be painted, not chromed.

        I know to check the front fenders, the bottoms of the doors, floor boards and trunk floor for rot. Are there be any other out of the way places on the body where I should be looking?
        Mark L

        Comment


        • #5
          Almost all Studebakers have a weak spot inside the front doors on the floor at the front of the door. Some have little trouble, others have only a film of rust left. Try to pull back the carpet on the drivers side and examine the floor where the door post joins the floor. There are repair panels available, so bad rust there is no problem, but if you find solid floor, expect little other rust.

          They are one of the most overlooked undervalued cars out there. Good luck.


          I wholeheartedly agree, I greatly enjoy my '55 Land Cruiser.'
          Last edited by Tom Bredehoft; 11-24-2011, 06:37 PM. Reason: Add edoresement

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          • #6
            If this is any encouragement to you...Today I went to our traditional Thanksgiving day family reunion. The trip was about 140 miles there and back. Out of several Studebakers and modern vehicles we have to choose from...my wife and I made the trip in my 1951 Land Cruiser. Since we were running a little late, the 50 miles of interstate was traversed at a steady 80 mph on the way there. We were there on time with the most unique ride in the parking lot. The ride home was great and a little more laid back.

            Great time, great ride. If the car you are looking at is solid...buy it. They are one of the most overlooked undervalued cars out there. Good luck.
            John Clary
            Greer, SC

            SDC member since 1975

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Mark,

              I have a 60k mile 51 LC that I am currently restoring. I really enjoy driving "Elsie". She is very comfortable and draws lots of attention. FYI, the 51 LC new front suspension, brakes and V8 were the basis of most of the cars up through at least 64 so most parts are readily available through various Studebaker vendors. You can even upgrade to better brakes and a larger V8 with very few modifications if you so desire.

              This Forum and the Studebaker Drivers Club are great resources and a great car community. Welcome and good luck.

              Besides what has been noted above, also check the sheet metal body supports for rust. There are 3 on each side ( behind front wheels, between the doors and in front of the rear wheels. The body mounts are available from Classic Industries if you need to replace them.

              Since mine were still good except for the bottom part, I repaired the front ones by cutting off the bottom rusted portions and welding in new metal. You may also find the ventilation ducts tucked between the fenders and the cowl will have some rust because they are exposed to water and mud but not sunlight to dry them out. My floor boards are a little thin in spots from wet carpet above but I have decided not to mess with them until I am ready to redo the interior upholstery.

              Cheers,

              Jim
              \"Ahh, a bear in his natural habitat...a Studebaker!\"

              51 Land Cruiser (Elsie)
              Jim Mann
              Victoria, B.C.
              Canada

              Comment


              • #8
                I just got back from examining the car. For the most part, it was exactly as described. I would say it is about 98% complete. The only parts I could find were missing were the hood ornament, the driver's door outside mirror, and the wheel covers.

                It is a '51 Commander Land Cruiser. The owner of the scrap yard gave me a photocopy of the title. It was last titled as a used car on October 6 1954 in Watertown South Dakota to a man from Codington SD. There were no registration papers, but the front/back plates were dated 1962, so we think that's the last time it was registered for public road use. The title shows the loan was paid off in 1958.

                It has the V-8 and a manual transmission. The odometer is showing 18625. There is not much wear on the gas, brake, or clutch pedals, so could it really be this low? I know it's only a 5 digit odometer not counting the tenths, so it could be over 100,000 or 200,000.

                Most of the radiator fins were straight. If they are only as strong as those on current radiators, it didn't spend a lot of time at high speeds, or there weren't many insects in Codington.

                These are the codes:
                s/n plate from driver's door post: 8166436 (or 8I66436)
                Tag on the firewall: HY-5 20731
                engine s/n: V-67200 (This is from the title. I was looking for the number on the block around the distributor, but the dirty grease was too thick, and I wasn't exactly sure where to look).

                My parents still live in South Bend (in the same house they bought when Dad worked at Studebaker), so I'm going to ask Dad to make a run to the museum with the numbers.

                I found the plastic center part of the bullet on the front seat broken into several large pieces. The only dents I saw were on one of the stainless covers on the front lower edge of the left rear fender, and the gas filler door looked a little concave. The rear bumper has a pucker to the right of center like one of the bumper ends was pushed towards the body, but I didn't see any other major bends. The front bumper was straight.

                I could not find any rust holes. There was plenty of surface rust on the underbody where the undercoat was peeling away. Because it has been sitting outside on the western (rainy) side of the Cascades for the last three years and the weather seals are shredded, the seats and carpet are sopping wet, and trunk floor is wet. The interior is moldy and smells of mildew, and there is moss growing along the door sills. The headliner is covered in mildew spots. I tried to pull back the carpets near the driver's door post, but it just came apart in shreds. Despite the water, there is still only surface rust on the floor boards and the weak points noted in the other posts above.

                I could not find any rust blisters or holes in any of the exterior body panels or doors.

                It definitely needs to get out of the weather. The current owner is planning to move it to a barn on his property if he can't get a buyer just so he can get it out of the weather and dry it out.

                I'll post some pictures when I can figure out how to move them from my daughter's camera to the computer.
                Last edited by Mark L; 09-20-2015, 01:32 PM.
                Mark L

                Comment


                • #9
                  A '51 Land Cruiser! Probably one of the most comfortable post-war drivers, with the most common common parts; a model you will always regret passing up, unless the owner is asking an insane price.
                  Photos always help.
                  Plug you daughter's camera in to a USB port on your computer. In your post, select the "Insert Image" icon. The photos will probably be found in your "F" drive. Select and upload.
                  I once had a '50 Land Cruiser. They don't make automobiles like that anymore that any of us can afford.
                  Brad Johnson,
                  SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                  Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                  '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                  '56 Sky Hawk in process

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here are a few exterior pictures. The right side is the same condition. I believe the car may have been painted Maui Blue, based on the paint on the door posts when the doors are open. I didn't know the paint code was under the glove box until after I saw the car.
                    Attached Files
                    Mark L

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A few interior pictures. The upper part of the front seat has a blue striped cover over the original upholstery. There are several holes in the headliner from mice.
                      Attached Files
                      Mark L

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Doors liners.
                        Attached Files
                        Mark L

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The interior of the trunk and the underbody.
                          Attached Files
                          Mark L

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The grill and engine compartment.

                            The owner wants $600. I'm planning to buy it, but I have to arrange a place to store it before I can move it.
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by Mark L; 11-27-2011, 04:56 PM.
                            Mark L

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Although worn and tattered, you are showing an original solid-looking car. The vinyl on the doors and arm rests is made of solid tough material and can be saved. I sewed new material on mine and used it when I was restoring my Land Cruiser. Keep in mind (if I understood your story) that the current owner bought it for scrap. While you probably won't get it for scrap price...have you made him an offer? I wouldn't buy it as an investment, but it will make you a great "Labor of Love" project and serve you and your family well as a tribute to your father's legacy and as a hobby outlet.
                              John Clary
                              Greer, SC

                              SDC member since 1975

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