looking for 289 block

[ken-renda]

If anyone has a solid 289 block that they want to sell please let me know. Ken Deltaville, Va

[PackardV8]

Or a 224" or a 259" - all the blocks and heads other than the 232" are the same.

On the other hand, if you are looking for a short block containing a 289" crank, then you might mention that.

jack vines

[starliner62]

I have one or two (or more). Do you need just a bare block?

[ken-renda]

I have one or two (or more). Do you need just a bare block?

just the bare block, have everything else. Ken

[Kdancy]

partial flow or full flow?

[ken-renda]

partial flow or full flow?

full fow, ken

[woodysrods]

There was one just listed on ebay this afternoon.
Search "289 Studebaker engine"
Good Roads
Brian

[starliner62]

I will look on Tuesday morning. I should have a few full flow blocks at the shop.

[JoeHall]

Its more expensive and time consuming, but unless an engine is known to be freshly rebuilt, from someone like Jack V, I'd rather start with a "builder". Though sometimes a pig in a poke works out well. For example, I gave my older brother a 289 a few years ago to put into his 1949 Stude pickup. It came out of a 1962 GT I picked up for $350. The GT seller said it had a "new engine" but I paid no attention, since he'd never heard it run, and was only passing on what he'd been told. Turned out, it was a cloverleaf engine. I advised my bro to still replace the gaskets and seals. He did, and when the heads were removed, the engine looked to have about 5,000 miles on it. It is still in his truck and runs great.

[ken-renda]

There was one just listed on ebay this afternoon.
Search "289 Studebaker engine"
Good Roads
Brian

thanks, i'm watching it, ken

[ozarkman]

So what's a running, full flow, short block vs complete, 259 worth these days?

[PackardV8]

Depends on who's got it and where; also if it includes a 4-bbl intake and carb, add $50-100. Recently a running when pulled 2-bbl was offered free-come-get-it-out-of-my-garage. Another here on the forum was offered for sale for $350, IIRC.

FWIW, for me personally, the days are past when I'd spend the labor to install a "running" engine unless I'd driven the car from which it was removed. It is possible to get an idea of condition via compression and leakdown tests, but nearly every used engine I've seen needs a valve job and new valve stem seals at a minimum. CASO results may vary.

jack vines

[kmac530]

{raising hand} That was me who got that "come get it" 289....

Jack,
I am not just installing it as is. I do fully trust Bob K.s assesment that it was useable as is and the compression test was excellent. I am also not doing a total overhaul either. I am doing a "freshen up". I have it pulled all apart down to a short block for now. I am checking all bearings for wear and clearances and how they look. I am planning on honing the cylinders, they measured well within spec and barely have any ring ridge at all. The pistons are clean and unscored and the entire motor looks great. So I am planning on just honing the cylinders and putting in fresh rings {barring seeing some issue after hone}, and then pulling all of the valves and thouroughly inspect them. If all looks and measures well, I hope to just lap them, new seals and re-install.

The lifters {tappets actually I think} are perfect and you can not see any wear marks at all. I truely believe that with a hone, rings,, gaskets, and a valve lap n all seals this motor will be perfect.