View Full Version : Body shim placement for Coupe-express

11-03-2011, 09:34 AM
The current '37 Coupe-express project is moving along. I have the cab completely stripped so I can get on with body work and paint this winter. I installed the body and the box on the restored Dictator chassis that I'm using (to get the Planar suspension) to check for fit. It will come off again for body work and finish paint. I was concerned about the fit between the back of the cab and the sheet metal pieces that fill the area forward of the back fenders under the box. The replacement (fabricated) cab corners didn't look quite right but this area came out OK. As long as the body was on the chassis I hung the doors to see what kind of fit I could get there. The body parts book says there are three shims on each side of the cab. I found eight places on each side where the are bolt locations. I put 1/4 inch replacement rubber shims in each spot and tightened it down. I got what I thought was pretty good door fitment in the door openings. Do I leave the rubber shims in all those locations or should I use metal spacers in some of those holes? I am thinking that the main shim spots are the threaded hole (7/16) in the frame just under the cowl, the hole just in front of the threaded one , and the hole at the very back of the cab. I used 1/4 inch rubber all the way because the old shims that were still there were so old and compressed/ragged that I couldn't tell what thickness they were originally. Any thoughts? Thanks. Tom

11-03-2011, 09:55 AM
Good grief Tom! I sure would love to have a Coupe Express so that I could have your quandary. As rare as those things are...how many people are you going to run into that have enough knowledge about them to question how it is put together? My suggestion is to make it safe, make it solid, make it quiet, and most of all...make it yours! The better you insulate the cab, the quieter it will be.

You have the opportunity to make it better in, this regard, than it was from the factory. Remember, even in those days, they were made to sell. They were made with keeping cost at a minimum for the sake of profit. Any improvement you can add that gives more support, more insulation, better material, make it fit, and keep out of sight...I say go for it.:):p:)

11-03-2011, 11:34 AM
I had some thin rubber strips (tire rubber) on the vertical tabs (4) in between the tabs and the frame.
But I don't know if that is correct or not.

11-03-2011, 11:41 AM
....But I don't know if that is correct or not.

Excellent reply Jeff! As one of the fortunate few "rarified air" owners...it kinda proves my point.:)

11-03-2011, 03:48 PM
For a 'stock' CE, it is a good question.
But since mine was bastardized (before I re-bastardized it), I can't speak from any position of knowledge or authority.
But I will say this.. I'd leave the cab mount tabs only snug (double nut'ed)..
I spent countless hours welding the top to cab back seam on mine to make it solid...
And it has started to crack the paint ....again.
I think it is frame flex transponded to to the cab... through the mounts.
Studebaker learned about pickup truck flex by the time the Ccab came around and made one of the cab mounts 'loose' with a spring...
(Just so the truck could flex during that belly button motor 7000 rpm 1-2 shift):eek:.
Those Stude guys were smart...:rolleyes:

Excellent reply Jeff! As one of the fortunate few "rarefied air" owners...it kinda proves my point.:)