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Can I ditch the Voltage Regulator?

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  • Electrical: Can I ditch the Voltage Regulator?

    I have a one wire internal regulated alt. I'm going to put on the Lark since it was give to me. I also plan to run Pertonix. Do I have to run a Voltage Resistor or a Ballast Resistor anymore?

  • #2
    You said voltage "regulator" in your heading and are talking about resistors. If you do mean voltage regulator, you can dispose of the external regulator and tape off the leads. If you mean a ballast resistor, I'm not sure of the answer...the ballast resistor is matched to the coil. If you have a Pertronix with a Pertronix coil, they're probably already matched, but maybe contacting Pertronix is the best thing to do.
    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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    • #3
      I was actually asking about booth. I'm putting a new harness in so I just wondered if I needed the voltage regulator. Ballast Resister just popped in my head while I was typing.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by JDC View Post
        I was actually asking about booth. I'm putting a new harness in so I just wondered if I needed the voltage regulator. Ballast Resister just popped in my head while I was typing.
        With a one-wire alternator, you should me running a heavier gauge wire straight to the positive post of the battery. Just to make sure you're doing that. That's how the one-wire setup is on my Avanti.
        Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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        • #5
          A three wire alternator is a much better choice for a car. It's a little more trouble to wire, but not that much more trouble. It will be voltage sensing which will make your lights brighter, and it will have an internal voltage regulator. It's also a lot easier to find a replacment if it wears out--the 10 SI alternator is the 3-wire alternator most people put on a car. The 10-SI a Delco, and time-proven reliable. You can find a replacement in any auto parts store in the Country, which you can't say about a 1-wire. There's a reason why somebody gave that one-wire alt. to you.
          1953 Chev. 210 Convertible, 261 6cyl w/Offy dual intake (But I always did love Studebakers!)
          1995 Dodge/Cummins Pickup, 250 HP, 620 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, ATS trans.
          Robert Rausch

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          • #6
            A three wire alternator is a much better choice for a car. It's a little more trouble to wire, but not that much more trouble. It will be voltage sensing which will make your lights brighter, and it will have an internal voltage regulator. It's also a lot easier to find a replacment if it wears out--the 10 SI alternator is the 3-wire alternator most people put on a car. The 10-SI a Delco, and time-proven reliable. You can find a replacement in any auto parts store in the Country, which you can't say about a 1-wire. There's a reason why somebody gave that one-wire alt. to you.
            Oh, really? Every GM I've worked on since the 70's had a one-wire alternator.
            The only difference between death and taxes is that death does not grow worse every time Congress convenes. - Will Rogers

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JDC View Post
              I was actually asking about booth. I'm putting a new harness in so I just wondered if I needed the voltage regulator. Ballast Resister just popped in my head while I was typing.
              You will not need the external regulator with a one-wire alternator, as was mentioned earlier, but a heavier gauge wire is necessary. Also, you will not normally need the ballast resistor on many HEI ignition systems, but I believe the Pertronix uses it. Try this page on Bob Johnstone's Studebaker site: http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...Ignitions.html

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              • #8
                My Lark with its 350 Chevy has a 1974 GM alternator. I ran a direct 8 gauge wire to the Batt side of the starter relay; a jumper between the #2 (small) terminal and the Batt terminal on the alternator and a wire from the Gen light to the #1 terminal.
                --------------------------------------

                Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

                Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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