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  • Other: horn button/ ring removal

    How is the horn button/ring removed on a 1950 Studebaker Champion. I have pulled on mine pretty hard to no avail. I'm afraid to pry on it with anything or pull on it too hard for fear of breaking it.
    Last edited by socko29; 10-31-2011, 04:18 PM. Reason: clarification

  • #2
    Twist the button only, do not pull. The horn ring/bar is held by screws behind the button.

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    • #3
      Mike is correct, but you need to turn it 1/4 or less. You must have a metal cap with a S stamped on it.

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      • #4
        Thanks so much. I actually wanted to remove just the horn button. I'm glad I got your great advice before I did something dumb. I was able to remove the button by turning it, while applying upward pressure with my fingernails. I wanted to replace my old heavily cracked plastic Studebaker Crest button. Thanks again for your wise expertise.
        Last edited by socko29; 10-31-2011, 04:16 PM. Reason: clarification

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        • #5
          Would I use this same technique with the horn button on a 1954 Studebaker 3R6-12 pickup truck? I'm having an issue with the horn making sound when I turn the steeering wheel all the way to the left. I assume that I need to adjust the sensitivity or check the wiring? Any help is appreciated.

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          • #6
            Socko29....Welcome to the site...I'm pretty new myself, but I have found some of these guys can help out a whole bunch. Do you have the manual for your car? I am about 60% done working on my 50 Studebaker Champion Deluxe 9G. I've done all the work myself. I have the shop manual, in the garage that I use every day. Everything about our cars are weird(especially the brakes and wiring), so the manual really helps. There is a wire that sticks out of the steering box under the hood that connects to the horn. It could be grounding out--good time to replace it. I can get you the color and gage wire if you want? Rick from Des Moines, Iowa...........It's snowing here today

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jersey2J View Post
              Would I use this same technique with the horn button on a 1954 Studebaker 3R6-12 pickup truck? I'm having an issue with the horn making sound when I turn the steeering wheel all the way to the left. I assume that I need to adjust the sensitivity or check the wiring? Any help is appreciated.
              More likely is that the wire that goes down the inside of the steering column is frayed where it exits the column under the hood. If you can find the wire under the hood, maybe you can slip some un-shrunk heat shrink tubing up its length inside the column and that might cure the problem.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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              • #8
                Great advice, BossHoss61 and RadioRoy. Thanks so much. I'll pop the hood after work.

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                • #9
                  I like shrink wrap too---Roy. I've never change out the whole horn wire yet. But, wouldn't that be a better option? And on that year and model the wire comes right out the end of the steering column.................somehow.

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                  • #10
                    Fellas. I see two green wires that lead from the column under the hood right up to the horns. They look fine under the hood, so I assume I have an issue under the horn button or in the column. The horn still unexpectedly honks when turning left. Question like socko29's: How do I remove this button without breaking it? (see image)

                    Thanks!
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      -Disconnect the battery so that the neighbors do not have to "enjoy" hearing your horn.
                      -Press the palm of your hand, hard, onto the horn button.
                      -While pressing, rotate the button and your hand counter clockwise.

                      it should come off

                      The wire usually goes bad inside the column, just as it exits the column, but it might be bad inside the column higher up. The fact that it only happens when the wheel is all the way to the left tells me that the wire is twisting into some weird position. Turning the wheel to the extreme should not affect the horn button, but the button is fairly easy to remove.
                      Last edited by RadioRoy; 05-04-2013, 01:35 PM.
                      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                      • #12
                        Thanks RadioRoy. Do you know what gauge wire the horn wire is? I'm going to try to replace it.

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                        • #13
                          Anything over 20 or 22 gauge will work. The more flexible the wire, the better.

                          All the wire is doing is energizing the coil of the horn relay.

                          Before you pull the old wire out, solder the new wire to the end of the old wire and make a smooth connection. Then use the old wire to pull the new wire through the column.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                          • #14
                            So if you are going to pull the horn ring to replate it, cut off the horn wire and leave in the column so that a new wire can be routed later? I have a '64.
                            Tom - Bradenton, FL

                            1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                            1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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                            • #15
                              Job done! Thanks everyone. Your advice worked perfectly and the issue is gone. The wire was original and worn inside the column.

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