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  • Engine: Stuck Distributor

    Need help with a stuck distributor in a Stude 289. Would like to turn crank, but would like to get oil pressure first.
    Distributor will not move at all. Probably rust, am hoping someone here will have a solution. Thanks

  • #2
    Sometimes carbon and crud will make them hard to remove. when you get it out, you will see it if you look down the emty hole. clean the edges of the dist casting and it will go back in easier.

    Remove a valve cover to check for signs of rust inside. If there is signs of rust, remove the intake manifold and lifter cover so you can use your favorite penetrant on the edge of the distributor shaft. Tap each valve sharply to make sure they go down and come back up. Turn the engine by hand just a bit, then backwards just a bit. Tap the dist. cast iron housing down low and it should work loose. prime the oil system and continue...... Use any 'ol gasket goo to test run it, then go back and replace gaskets as needed.
    Last edited by (S); 10-24-2011, 12:30 AM.

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    • #3
      My brother and I ran into this problem with an engine he had not started for a while. We where able to get a small pipe wrench on the lower part of the distributor and after tapping and tugging on the wrench handle the distributor slowly begin to move. After we wiggled it back and forth a little it came free.
      "In the heart of Arkansas."
      Searcy, Arkansas
      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
      1952 2R pickup

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      • #4
        You can use one of those oil filter wrenches too. Has to do that on a 52 3H that had not been run for 30 years. Put a little PBlaster on it too.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jallen View Post
          Need help with a stuck distributor in a Stude 289. Would like to turn crank, but would like to get oil pressure first.
          Distributor will not move at all. Probably rust, am hoping someone here will have a solution. Thanks
          Thanks for the suggestions. Forgot to mention the engine was still in the car so access was very restricted. Ended up using ATF/ACETONE,
          hammer and 12" punch. Distributor out, no sign of rust, one small chip out of base from punch. Thanks

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          • #6
            Another good trick I have used is to spray up the base with your fav penetrating solvent, PB Blaster or whatever, then fire up your air-powered needle scaling tool and aim it at the base of the dist. The vibration along with the PB will loosen it right up
            1947 M5 under restoration
            a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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            • #7
              Needle Scalling?

              Hmm interesting, I did not know you could buy a Needle scalling tool to remove the needles from your Douglas Fir Trees, but then who would want to do that?
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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