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blackhawk61
06-09-2007, 10:10 AM
Suggestions..........I purchased new upper and lower hoses and clamps for them from SI...I cleaned the surfaces and I have the "special" hose clamp pliers to install them...I can not seem to get clamps positioned in such a manner so that it does not leak after it warms up...Anyone else had this problem ?...Is it possible that the clamps are not quite small enough to clamp tightly ?...Are better ones available anywhere else ?...I really want to keep this type clamp as everything is original..........Help Please !
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/chevpartsman/P1010002.jpg

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/chevpartsman/61HawkChevypartsmanreduce.jpg
Lewisville,NC
(formerly chevpartsman)

JDP
06-09-2007, 10:27 AM
I bought mine from another vendor and got them to work with the thinner repro hoses until I blew the top one off at the drag strip and gave up.

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

Tom B
06-09-2007, 11:16 AM
Some hoses are 1 3/4", some 1 5/8". My '53 (232) had the smaller size and SI sent the larger size. They leaked when warm, too. If this is your problem, Jon Myer has 1 5/8" clamps.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

Dick Steinkamp
06-09-2007, 12:37 PM
SI only has one size...the wrong size (actually it works for the engine side of the lower radiator hose). I got the correct ones from Myers thanks to a tip from R2GTHAWK. There is no way those gold ones from SI will seal the top hose or the radiator side of the bottom hose. I think it's misleading of them to sell them.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

hank63
06-09-2007, 01:00 PM
Wire clamps were popular with the car manufacturers because of lower cost. Save yourself grief and install worm-drive clamps.
/H

Randy_G
06-09-2007, 01:30 PM
But then they wouldn't original and the hoses wouldn't leaks and we wouldn't have anything to read about..LOL[:o)] another solution would be not to let your car warm up. you can do like me and just go out in the garage and look at it.[:o)] Let us know how your hose problem works out, I'm sure I will get to this point as well down the road.[^]

Randy_G
1959 Lark Sedan
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/sedan4small.jpg

Guido
06-09-2007, 01:36 PM
I wish this had been posted prior to my leaving the house this morning. [xx(] I just got back from the local AACA car show and one of the vendors had a whole box full....

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn doctor’s buggy; Studebaker horse drawn “Izzer” buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures" (including a 1959 IH B-120 4 wheel drive and numerous Oliver and Cockshutt tractors).

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

studegary
06-09-2007, 02:53 PM
The newer hoses have a thinner wall thickness than the original hoses. This causes original size wire hose clamps to not compress the hose enough to hold it properly. Keep in mind that V-8s only used three of the wire style for the radiator hoses. The lower engine end should have a flat metal hose clamp. If you go away from the wire style clamps, I would go with the flat metal style as they are more period correct and original manufacturer style than the worm drive replacement style.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

Dick Steinkamp
06-09-2007, 03:25 PM
quote:Originally posted by studegary
If you go away from the wire style clamps, I would go with the flat metal style as they are more period correct and original manufacturer style than the worm drive replacement style.



In either case, you will loose 2 points in judging...

13. Aftermarket replacement hose clamps will receive a 2-point total authenticity deduction.

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdcjudgingpolicies.asp

might as well use the worm drive.

BTW, I have not had any problem with new wire clamps (correct size) on new hoses. Using older clamps and/or using them on hoses that have aged and hardened can be a problem, however.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

blackhawk61
06-09-2007, 04:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by studegary

The newer hoses have a thinner wall thickness than the original hoses. This causes original size wire hose clamps to not compress the hose enough to hold it properly. Keep in mind that V-8s only used three of the wire style for the radiator hoses. The lower engine end should have a flat metal hose clamp. If you go away from the wire style clamps, I would go with the flat metal style as they are more period correct and original manufacturer style than the worm drive replacement style.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

Gary,
Who has the "flatmetal type" for the lower hose ?

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/chevpartsman/61HawkChevypartsmanreduce.jpg
Lewisville,NC
(formerly chevpartsman)

Dick Steinkamp
06-09-2007, 07:37 PM
quote:Originally posted by studegary
The lower engine end should have a flat metal hose clamp.


Do you have any documentation of this? The parts manual lists two hose clamp sizes for a 59-64 V8. A 2 1/8" clamp which would only fit the engine end of the lower radiator hose (1 is specified in the manual) and a 1 13/16" clamp which will fit both ends of the upper hose and the radiator end of the lower hose (3 are specified in the manual). Is there a type of a flat metal hose clamp that is not adjustable?

BTW, SI's new catalog now lists a 1 3/4" wire clamp in addition to the 2 1/8 one they have always carried.

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

studebakerjeff
06-09-2007, 09:30 PM
Who cares what the judges say, I put the worn type on my 50 studebaker so it don't leak period. They give all the rewards to someone who has a 440 engine with a chopped top anyway!.....


Jeff

1950 Champion business coupe
Home of Marshall

StudeRich
06-09-2007, 10:03 PM
Jeff, you must be going to those Street Rod/Custom type shows, not an SDC show, I don't see how that could happen, since you would not be competing with those, if you are in stock class.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

studebakerjeff
06-09-2007, 10:28 PM
You are right. I've had my studebaker for 3 years and been to local shows only. It seems that all you see anymore is people getting nice old cars and putting big engines in them. The ones that had nice org. cars don't even get looked at. About the hose clamps, I never did like the wire clamps,and when it comes to having a org. car I will keep my worm type,just because they don't leak.

There was one guy at the shows that was going around and asking what they did with there old engines, he would buy there old engines and sell them to people that wanted org.egines. Sounds like a great Idea to me.


Jeff





quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

Jeff, you must be going to those Street Rod/Custom type shows, not an SDC show, I don't see how that could happen, since you would not be competing with those, if you are in stock class.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA


1950 Champion business coupe
Home of Marshall

blackhawk61
06-10-2007, 06:25 PM
After going through my receipts and checking part numbers...SI did send the 2 1/8" clamps. I will order the smaller ones tomorrow for the upper hose.I would still like to know about the "flat steel clamp" for the lower hose at the radiator(if it really came that way ...and if so ...where do I get one?)

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/chevpartsman/61HawkChevypartsmanreduce.jpg
Lewisville,NC
(formerly chevpartsman)

Dick Steinkamp
06-10-2007, 08:48 PM
quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61
I will order the smaller ones tomorrow for the upper hose.I would still like to know about the "flat steel clamp" for the lower hose at the radiator(if it really came that way ...and if so ...where do I get one?)



You'll want a third small clamp for the radiator end of the lower hose.

I would also like to see some sort of documentation on the "flat steel clamp". (no anecdotes please)





http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

studegary
06-10-2007, 11:00 PM
I answer most questions from my personal experience memory. I do not have my parts books and shop manuals available.

I believe that Fred Fox addressed this hose issue some time ago in Turning Wheels.

In a quick look, the only Studebaker literature with it pictured, that I found right off, was the 1957 "Studebaker Data Book for Studebaker Salesmen."



Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

blackhawk61
06-13-2007, 06:14 PM
Problem solved !....Correct size clamps make all the difference in the world !:)

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/chevpartsman/61HawkChevypartsmanreduce.jpg
Lewisville,NC
(formerly chevpartsman)