Engine: Size and Year

[JohnL]

I have an extra Studebaker V8 Engine in the pickup box of my '59 Deluxe. I have reviewed the various charts showing engine designation for the various years and don't find it there. It must be pre-1962 or 1963 because it is not a full flow. But beyond that ???
The designation stamp on the top right hand side is "E 1217". There is a screw just to the left of the "E" and to the right of "7". Neither screw can be removed, they're "rust welded" to the block. I doubt there is anything underneath anyway. There is I presume a serial # on the left side just opposite. That number is 527644. The "E" designation tells me it is a truck engine, and would appear to be either a 55-56 259 or a 57-58 289HD.?? Anybody provide any help?

[gordr]

I don't think you have found the engine number. More likely a casting number. Those "screw heads" are cast into the block, as are the numbers between them. There was a metal tag screwed to the wooden form used to make the sand mold for casting the block.

Turn the engine so the water pump faces you. Look at the top surface of the block just behind the water pump manifold on your right. You want to be looking at the machined surface of the block valley, the exact same plane as the valley cover bolts to. The engine number should be stamped into the front edge of that machined surface. Studebaker used an upper-case "I" for the numeral "1". If there is nothing there, or maybe just a cloverleaf design, you may have a service replacement block. '51 and '52 232 blocks had the serial number back by the distributor on that same plane surface.

[JohnL]

Engine

I don't know whether I solved the puzzle or just added more confusion. I look where you directed, I could not find any number other than the E 1217 #. However, I did find a number stamped into the top of the block left rear. That number is V129742. Which would indicate it is a 232 out of a 1952 Commander ??

[laughinlark]

Hey John,
Your right, It's a 52 232V/8.


Gordon S

[JohnL]

What to do with a 232

As early threads indicate I've had this extra Studebaker V8 engine sitting in the pickup box of a '59 I'm in the process of restoring. It was sitting upside down so I couldn't get a good read on what V8 it was. But I was certain it was an older 289, because the junk yard where I found it had a couple of big old Studebakers...I thought it came from one of those.
We finally got the engine upright and find out it wasn't a 289 or even a 259, but rather a 232" out of a 1952 Commander. I was told once by an old mechanic who specialized in working on Studebakers that the 232 and 224 aren't worth the cost of restoring...they never had enough power. On this one as far as I can tell the block is not cracked, but the engine won't turn, and I have no idea if there in anything left inside worth fixing. I paid someone $75 for a engine stand I don't need. I'd give someone the engine for the cost of the stand, BUT ONLY IF I KNEW THEY HAD A SPECIFIC PROJECT THEY WANTED THE ENGINGE FOR, as opposed to just trying to sell it to someone. I don't know whether it is worth advertising in Turning Wheels or on line, or whether I ought to just haul it to the recylers. ???

[whacker]

Before you junk the engine, you should save a few parts from it. If the crank is good, it will work in a 259 just fine. You may have a harmonic balancer and at least one, maybe more, crank pulleys. If it still has a rebuildable fuel pump on top of the engine, that is a great ebay item - start it at $50. Exhaust manifolds are specific to 232's and may also be saleable. The intake manifold can bring a few bucks from someone doing an authentic restoration. If the bell housing is still with it, I want that. If the flywheel ring gear isn't all chewed up, it might find a market, as could the bolt and nuts holding it on. The oil pan is saleable if the bottom is still flat. Look hard at that timing cover and the cam gear - the cam also, it might be a good core. Push rods that are straight and clean are going for $5 to $10 bucks each. Rockers might have some value if they are rebuildable, the Caddy rodders like those also. If the starter is still there, it has value, as well as the special bolts that hold it on. Don't forget the rods!