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bonehead007
06-08-2007, 08:02 AM
Doing drum brakes for the first time..No wonder I always liked disk...Tried doing it the book way and gave up half an hour later Whats the proper/easiest way to put the drum brakes, shoes, springs, etc..back together on a Hawk ????

r1lark
06-08-2007, 08:57 AM
quote:Originally posted by bonehead007

Doing drum brakes for the first time..No wonder I always liked disk...Tried doing it the book way and gave up half an hour later Whats the proper/easiest way to put the drum brakes, shoes, springs, etc..back together on a Hawk ????


[u]Disclaimer:</u> this is how I do it, and how I have had success doing it, other people may do it a different way which is fine.....&lt;G&gt;.

First of all, I remove the backing plate and take the whole mess to the workbench where I have good light and don't have to sit on the ground. Getting old......&lt;G&gt;! That also allows me to blast and paint the backing plates if they are nasty (yes, I am quite anal about that sort of thing, N8 knows what I mean&lt;G&gt;). The fronts are easy, the backs require removing the emergency brake cable which is not too much harder. After all, you want to clean and lube the emergency brake cable, right?

The following is based on the '54 thru '66 style car "all drum" brake, front or rear; the rear drums on a disc brake car are slightly different but similar procedure. In fact, I am doing my '63 Lark disc/drum brakes right now.

On reassembly: lay the backing plate down, with the wheel cylinder installed. Set your brake shoes down in the correct orientation (primary and secondary shoes in the correct position). If these are rear brakes, install the emergency brake lever onto the shoe. Put a touch of Lubriplate or similar white grease on the 'pads' made into the backing plate where the metal portion of the shoes ride....not too much or it will make a mess on the friction material. Install the starwheel adjuster assembly and spring on the lower end of the shoes, and then lay the shoes/starwheel adjuster/spring assembly onto the backing plate. Install the shoe holddown pins and clips. Install the keystone-shaped block at the top of the backing plate (see shop manual for correct orientation), and the flat metal piece that goes over the block, and then install the two springs from the shoes to the top pin; this is the hardest part of the job, a brake spring tool helps. Make sure the springs are installed in the same sequence as the book shows - I always have the shop manual out when I do this, because supposedly it does matter which spring goes on first, and how the spring ends are orientated. Install the self adjuster hardware if your application uses it.

Now bolt the backing plates back onto the car and torque the bolts to the specs given in the shop manual, hook up the brake line, install the emergency brake cable if you are working on the rear brakes, and you are almost done. Install the drum/hub, and do a rough shoe adjustment so you can bleed the brakes and thus properly center the shoes in the drum by the hydraulic force of the wheel cylinder. Do a final shoe adjustment per the shop manual after the brakes are bled.

Hope this helps. If not, let me know what exactly you are having trouble with.

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

bonehead007
06-08-2007, 09:12 AM
Never even thought of taking the plate off..Will have to look at back and see how bad it looks...I agree I'd like it to look good/like new b4 I put it back together..I'll try it this weekend using your method. thanks for the help, appreciate it...The car I'm installing the brakes on is a 58 Pkrd Hawk....

Dick Steinkamp
06-08-2007, 11:01 AM
I do it just like Paul outlined, but I don't remove the backing plates. I personally find it easy to clean them up while they are on the car and easier to assemble the brakes with them bolted down.

The first time you do them, you'll struggle and go slow. The second time you'll be more comfortable with them and they will be easier. By the third time, YOU'LL be the pro and answering the next brake assembly question on the forum [^].

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

JDP
06-08-2007, 12:12 PM
I too leave the backing plate on. I mount the wheel cylinders, the hook the shoes on the bottom spring and swing them up an install the pins. I hook the top spring on the pin then hook a thin screwdriver on the lose end on the spring. You then just put the screwdriver blade under the hook in the shoe and slide the lose end of the spring down the blade and it'll go right on the hook. Once the drum is off, it's a 15 minutes job.

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

gordr
06-08-2007, 12:51 PM
#1: Buy a brake spring tool. In fact, buy two. One type is simply a bent metal bar with a twist-type spring REMOVER on one end; the other end is used to install the springs. The other type looks like a big set of tongs, with one jaw pointed, and the other formed into a hook. It's a LOT less frustrating to handle brake springs when you have the proper tools, and you're less likely to injure yourself or send precious parts flying into perdition. Get a tool to remove the little cup-style retainer spring caps, too. They should all be available at a FLAPS, and they won't cost much. Worth every penny, too.

#2: If the little pads on the backing plate have grooves worn in them, fill the grooves with weld and grind them smooth. Proper brake action depends on free movement of the shoes across these "tables" as they are called. Lubriplate will work, although in my experience it dries out with age. I use anti-seize compound, but disc brake grease would be fine, too.

#3: I find it hard to install the parking brake cable after the shoes are in place. I usually assemble the lever to the end of the cable, then put the lever pivot into the rear shoe, install the rear shoe, and "build" the assembly around the rear shoe.

#4: If doing rear brakes on a Stude, check the rear axle endplay, and adjust if necessary. You should also pull the axles and repack the rear wheel bearings, especially if it's unknown to you when it was last done. Pulling the drum (on tapered-axle cars) is the hard part of the job; might as well do ALL the easy stuff that can be done while they are off!

#5: I like to take a disc sander or coarse file, and make a 45 chamfer on the ends of the new brake linings. About 1/8" is all you need; it helps the new linings seat without shuddering or squeaking.

#6: If the car has self adjustors, make sure that you get them installed on the proper side of the car! Stop and think a bit. You want the little pawl to turn the star wheel in the direction that causes the the thread to back out of the barrel.

#7: If you are new to the whole brake job process, do only one wheel at a time, and use the undisturbed wheel as a model to reassemble the other.

Hope this helps.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

bonehead007
06-08-2007, 01:16 PM
I have the brake tool..Got a brake kit at Sears Hardware.. Went to an auto parts store & they gave me a silicone gel to use, said its ok for drums..Will give it a try 2morrow..I appreciate all of your input & suggestions..If any of you are passing buy or want to take a trip to Northern NJ to "help" I've got beer in the fridge.....

bonehead007
06-08-2007, 01:20 PM
Actually gordr, I've got all of the drums off...I read the other article on the tech site about brake drums..The psngr side took approx 60 wacks with a hammer & took about 2-3 hours to "pop" off. it took only 4 wacks for the drivers side, about half a minute and "pop" off that came.....

r1lark
06-08-2007, 03:59 PM
quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

I do it just like Paul outlined, but I don't remove the backing plates. I personally find it easy to clean them up while they are on the car and easier to assemble the brakes with them bolted down.



I remove the rear backing plates anyway to inspect and grease the rear wheel bearings and reset the axle endplay. The life of a set of rear linings (25 - 35,000 miles) corresponds with when the axle bearings need to be greased. I know, the shop manual says to grease them way more often, but a good grease seems to go these miles without a problem.

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

bonehead007
06-23-2007, 10:45 PM
Finally tackeled the front drums today. I did it with the backing plate on . I appreciate all of the tips and help from everyone but, one question.

I've got the spring pullers but, how the %^#$ do you use them. I tried for 30 mins and just when I thought I had the spring on, boink, off she went...This is the first time I've tackeled drums.

Also, I put the grease on where the drums ride along the back plate. Is that correct ?? Do I also grease the top where the brakes have to set into ??

JDP
06-23-2007, 11:33 PM
Again I've never used the spring pliers.

I mount the wheel cylinders, the hook the shoes on the bottom spring and swing them up an install the pins. I hook the top spring on the pin then hook a thin screwdriver on the lose end on the spring. You then just put the screwdriver blade under the hook in the shoe and slide the lose end of the spring down the blade and it'll go right on the hook stretching it as it goes.

JDP/Maryland

64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
63 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

Dick Steinkamp
06-24-2007, 07:34 AM
quote:Originally posted by bonehead007
Also, I put the grease on where the drums ride along the back plate. Is that correct ?? Do I also grease the top where the brakes have to set into ??


The drums shouldn't be touching the backing plates anywhere. The drums ride on the inner and outer bearings. Remove the inner seal, clean and inspect both bearings. Replace any worn bearings and races. Grease the bearings with a good quality wheel bearing grease. Reassemble with a new inner seal. I'd wipe the grease off where you put it. It could get thrown onto the shoes.

Put just a little of the grease on the 4 spots on the backing plate where the shoes touch. Just a little.

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

bonehead007
06-24-2007, 09:08 AM
Had started on 1 brake and gave up..Continued and did one of the valve covers..Didn't want to sand blast so, cleaned off top with simple green, primed & repainted, added new label.

I see the 4 spots on the drum plate. Will take off the pads, clean & grease those 4. I'll give the srewdriver method a try. Thanks for the help. Only way to learn.


Have posted a few photos of brakes & cover. First time trying this too..

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/bonehead007/DSC01254-1.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/bonehead007/DSC01241.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/bonehead007/DSC01250.jpg