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showbizkid
06-06-2007, 10:56 PM
I know a while back someone wrote the proceedure for pulling the dashboard out of a Lark, but I can't find it.

The reason I ask is that I need to install new wiring. I was going to do it from under the dash, but 45 minutes of wrassling with the ignition cylinder (and not winning) just convinced me otherwise [:o)]

Someone said to drop the steering column and then pull the dashboard. What's the proceedure for doing that? And will it mess up my windshield windlace?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

63larkcustom
06-06-2007, 11:56 PM
The lace is not the only thing to be careful of while pulling it out... I dropped the column and then lifted the dash up so the bolts would clear the lip. I ended up with a cracked front windshield... The 63 is a one year only windshield and hard to find.

StudeRich
06-07-2007, 02:48 AM
It would take a mighty hard hit with a padded dash to break a dual plate safety glass windshield! [:0]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

63larkcustom
06-07-2007, 04:13 AM
probably true..on my car there was no padding left and there was already a small star at bottom of windshield.

showbizkid
06-07-2007, 06:05 AM
Bob, what bolts are you referring to? I think that's what I need to know. And how hard is it to pull and replace? One-man job or two? Did you have to pull the heater box too? What about the vent rods?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

Mike Van Veghten
06-07-2007, 10:21 AM
Screws at the base of the windshield (under the molding) and bolts at the lower corners to the side of the door jams.
All wireing and actuation cables, steering column bracket. Removing the radio helps remove a bunch of weight too.

Remove the dash by sliding out the pass door...NOT up and over the steering column.
Should be about 1-1/2 hours worth of work.

Mike

63larkcustom
06-07-2007, 11:01 AM
along the base of the windshield, underneath the dash, there are several nuts that need to be removed, and of course the ones under the bas of the dash, yes, disconnect the cables for the vents... it also might be a good time to replace the climatizer hoses (coolant and air ducts) since the dash will be off. Its not a hard job just cumbersome. I didnt have enough room in my garage to bring it out the right side. Mike, thanks for the tip on that. Did you get a NOS wiring harness or have Studebakers West make one?

showbizkid
06-07-2007, 01:59 PM
I got my harness from Studebakers West.

Where are these "screws at the base of the molding"? On top of the dash or underneath? Are any of the fasteners on top?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

63larkcustom
06-07-2007, 02:41 PM
Hi Clark, This is how I did mine. Others may have a different way. You need to remove the trim pieces on the front pillars first, then take the chrome off the sides, at that point you might want to take the vanity off so it isnt damaged. Then remove the steering column bracket. After that, under the dash right below the windshield (youll need a flashlight for this) all around the lip there are about 10 nuts that need to be unscrewed they are all the way in the back on the underside of the dashboard. At taht time, feed your wiring through the firewall so as to not have more trouble taking out, you might want to take the grommet on the firewall off. at the same time disconnect the connector to rear harness and dimmer switch. Next the vent cables as well as the defroster/heater cables. (make sure you tape labels on each of the cables to id easily later. Undo the heater control valve and the remaining bolt on the underside of dash. Oh yes.. dont forget to disconnect the oil line to oil pressure gauge and speedometer cable. At this point it should be ready to take out. Guys, if I've missed something, please jump in. I've only dont this once. I'm sure there are many who have done this several times. Hope this helps.

Bob

showbizkid
06-11-2007, 07:22 AM
Thanks guys, that explains it real well. This oughta be fun... think I'll enlist a willing fool, er, brother-in-law, to help :)


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

curt
06-11-2007, 01:44 PM
I just finished rewiring my 1955 President State. I did not remove the dash. I removed the front seat and all gauges,switches, etc. I used a pillow for the head as needed. I worked through the instrument,radio, and other dash holes. I labeled each wire coming off the car , then labled each wire on the new harness. I had the old labled harness as a guided and refrence. This worked fine for me. She started and all lights worked on first try!:D

kamzack
06-11-2007, 03:09 PM
Hey Clark,
I've done the R&R on my 63 as well. I had a good used harness, so it was advantageous to pull dash. But with a new harness, you may want to consider pulling instrament panel only. Cut harness completely at at firewall inside or out, remove OP line,heat, defrost, temp cables at the ends opposite dash, speed cable, wires from heater motor, neautral safety switch from column. You'll have instruments in hand and can do a wire for wire install, same for engine compartment. I've found it's easier than removing dash. The last time I had it out I installed a replacement dash that has no cracks, no shrinkage and almost perfect, just the wrong color. Had an awful time trying to match color. Hope this gives you another avenue.
By the way howd the engine turn out and dial in process go?
Thanks for letting me share,
Kim

showbizkid
06-11-2007, 04:35 PM
quote:Originally posted by kamzack

By the way howd the engine turn out and dial in process go?


Thanks for the suggestion, Kim. That would be a lot easier! And I have a fresh cluster bezel ready to install anyway; a nice chrome one in place of the cheesy silver sprayed Standard unit [V]

Engine and trans are rebuilt and ready to go in after the suspension is finished, which should be sometime this month. I'll keep y'all posted (whether you want to be or not :D )


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

kamzack
06-14-2007, 12:54 PM
Hey Clark,
Thanks for the reply and yes it's fun to hear of Stude successes and problem solving in bringing a great car back to high end road condition. It sounds and looks like your going about it right way.
Thanks,
Kim