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View Full Version : Pos to neg ground, wire changs



StudeRich
06-06-2007, 02:39 PM
No, negative coil terminal is to distributor, positive (+) Coil term. goes to Ignition switch through a resister or resistance wire. The second wire to (+) term. of Coil should be a green one from the "IGN" Term. on the four terminal, 12V Solenoid you will need if you don't have one. That should get you started! Rich.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

curt
06-06-2007, 03:07 PM
Stude rich ,thanks. Now is the Wire changes at the Amp meter and the battery correct and all I need to do. I put in a coil with an internal resistor.

curt
06-06-2007, 03:16 PM
As you know my non ending project is rewiring my 1955 President. The hanress was charred, burned ,what ever with bare wires that had been burned clean of insulation. This had( and has ) a 12 volt alternator, using neg ground. Are the wires I change #1 reverse all amp meter polarity from what is listed in the wiring digram.#2 reverse battery to a neg ground. Is this correct?????[?] Let me know. Also is the coil wired as the original?

StudeRich
06-06-2007, 03:56 PM
Yes on the Batt. and Ampmeter, but I don't know about the Internal Resistance Coil, it may need more resistance.

It depends on how many OHMs it has, and I am not "Electronically" trained to know. I only know electrical stuff and what is in the '56 and on Shop Manuals on 12V ignition.

Maybe someone else who has used those aftermarket Coils would know.

I THOUGHT that Avantis had a resistance coil, and I know they also used a resister!

Also, how would you make it run on 8 to 10 volts after starting? You will need the resistance circuit AND the direct 12V circuit for starting if you have POINTS, with a Pertonix Electronic Ign. you could get away with that.


quote:Originally posted by curt

Stude rich ,thanks. Now is the Wire changes at the Amp meter and the battery correct and all I need to do. I put in a coil with an internal resistor.


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

John Kirchhoff
06-06-2007, 04:26 PM
Curt, I don't know what the resistance value is on the coil you used, but chances are it's somewhere between a little under 1 to around 2.5 ohms. I think I'd try it as it is and if it starts well and doesn't burn the points up faster than it should, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you aren't using a pointless electronic ignition, the extra current draw with too low of a resistance won't be the end of the world other than running more juice through the points. If the points burn, you might add a resistor of sufficient resistance to equal around 2.5 ohms total when added to the coil's resistance. If starting is a problem and everything else checks out, you may need to go with a lower ohm coil and a resistor. Just remember that every coil is going to have resistance regardless of what kind it is, they'll just different values.

Tom B
06-06-2007, 09:39 PM
I'm currently running a '60 Lark with a Pertronix Ignitor and a FLAPS resistor coil. No additional resistor, wired normal for the Pertronix.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

N8N
06-06-2007, 10:26 PM
If he bought an Accel or similar "performance" coil from his FLAPS it probably has the resistance built into it that will make it run fine on 12V. However I like the old school setup with the external ballast; it really helps with starting on cold mornings with a high compression engine when you have that green bypass wire hooked up.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

curt
06-08-2007, 07:48 PM
John K. ,I checked the resistance of my coil. I get 2.9 ohms between the "-" & "+". posts with no wires attached.