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  • Pilot bearing trouble

    This is only kinda Studebaker forgive me if it is too off Stude. I am passing this along because it worked so amazingly and I am sure it can be used for any such problem
    I had a pilot bearing go bad in a piece of equipment go bad. The bearing (ball type) fell apart, leaving the outer housing stuck in the end of the crank. The outer housing of the bearing seats against the crank and leaves no room for a puller to get behind it. Since the inner piece that the output shaft fits into was gone there was no way of using a puller. I tried alot of things, chisels, pullers, swearing, pleading nothing would budge it. Along comes the old man with an idea he had. Using an arc welder just put a quick tack on the housing where the bearings rode, tack it long enough to get hot and let it cool down, do it in a few places the heating and cooling will unseat the housing and it will fall out. He said he had never tried it but had heard it works well. I had nothing to lose, I even suck at welding. Well I did it just as he said it didn't seem to be working until I hit it with a chisel, lo and behold the thing popped almost all the way out. It simply amazed me.
    I think that my tractor can't be the only thing that loses a pilot bearing every now and then and I can't be the only one who has been stumped. I know some of you have already done this so it's old news. Just thought I would pass along a cool tip, I would think it could work on any stuck bearing. Sorry if this is not Stude enough.

  • #2
    In cases like this I take my cutting torch and cut it into a couple pieces. If you hit the air immediately as soon as the race gets hot enough, you can slice it through without hurting the underlying surface- especially in cast iron.

    Same thing with broken exhaust studs; with a little practice they can be blown out cleanly without even touching the threads! This works b/c the steel race (or stud) melts at a lower temp than the cast iron host.

    It's all about keeping the heat to a minimum- let it get too hot and you WILL cut and/or melt the cast too!

    I teach people this on junkyard manifolds; if you ruin a few, you'll get a feel for it

    Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131


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    • #3
      In cases like this I take my cutting torch and cut it into a couple pieces. If you hit the air immediately as soon as the race gets hot enough, you can slice it through without hurting the underlying surface- especially in cast iron.

      Same thing with broken exhaust studs; with a little practice they can be blown out cleanly without even touching the threads! This works b/c the steel race (or stud) melts at a lower temp than the cast iron host.

      It's all about keeping the heat to a minimum- let it get too hot and you WILL cut and/or melt the cast too!

      I teach people this on junkyard manifolds; if you ruin a few, you'll get a feel for it

      Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131


      Comment


      • #4
        Bams, I understand that the metal melts at different temps but how do you keep the other metal from getting hot enough to burn away also? It always seemed to me cast heats pretty easy. Although as I think about it, it is a bigger heat sink and would take more heat to get it hot. I am not that much better with a torch than I am with a stick welder. I am gettng pretty darn good with a grinder though

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        • #5
          Bams, I understand that the metal melts at different temps but how do you keep the other metal from getting hot enough to burn away also? It always seemed to me cast heats pretty easy. Although as I think about it, it is a bigger heat sink and would take more heat to get it hot. I am not that much better with a torch than I am with a stick welder. I am gettng pretty darn good with a grinder though

          Comment

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