Engine: mounting v8 to engine stand

[dnevin]

I have a heavy-duty, but typical engine stand that mounts by 4 bolts to the rear of the engine. I've been hesitant to try to connect it directly to the mounts because the bell housing mounting bolts are small bolts and having just 4 of them don't seem up to the task.

So before I try to rig something up out of scrap plate steel, or remove the bellhousing from the transmission and use those mounting bolts (which makes me slightly nervous becuase it moves the weight further forward) I thought I'd ask here.

Suggestions? Ideas? Am I worrying for nothing?

Thanks all.

[Skybolt]

I have an V8 engine on such a stand in the garage and the four bolts are enough. Have you lifted an engine out of a car by using the four carburetor bolts? There is enough strength in these areas just don't go dropping the engine to quickly with whatever you are lifting it with once it's bolted to the stand. You don't want to find out there is something wrong some where. Apart from that the engine webbing and bolt holes should be up to the task.

[dnevin]

Thanks Leonard. I'll get some hardened bolts of the appropriate length and give it a go.

[63t-cab]

Hi Dave,you need to remove the bell housing from the block - and mount directly to the bolt holes in the block (4) at least that's how my engine stand is set up.

[Dan Timberlake]

http://postimage.org/image/2nxs6e7s4/

I'd guess a V8's front to back Center of Gravity is around the middle of the engine, and on a typical engine stand that puts the CG around the middle of the stand's wheel base too. Can't ask for more than that
Mounting it with the bell housing on would move the CG further from the post end. On those 3 wheeled models things can get a little tippy feeling with a long inline engine.
The separated 3 and 4th wheels feel much more secure. There is a little fact behind 3 wheeled ATVs rep for poor stability.

It's a good idea to have the stand's pivot centered several inches above the cranks centerline before tighening the 4 bolts. If I manage to get the pivot right on the engine CG it will not tend to rotate on it's own when flipping it pan side up. That CG changes as heads, etc are removed and added.

http://www2.otctools.com/otctools.com/newcatalog/products/538289%20E.pdf

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hardened fasteners are NOT required...save your money..!
Just a normal grade 5 works just fine..!

Take a peek into the internet (I know you have it connected) search "fastener or bolt strength". There's a wealth of information burried in there. You just might be amazed at what a little shaft of steel will hold...!

Mike

[dnevin]

Thanks all. I'll post pictures of it once I get it on the stand.

[dnevin]

Thanks for the help--it is now safely on the stand.

[Clem64]

Safety first Dave, use Grade 8 bolts only.

[dnevin]

Safety first Dave, use Grade 8 bolts only.

I did. A buck-fifty seemed like cheap insurance.

[mookandairin]

Hi Dave,you need to remove the bell housing from the block - and mount directly to the bolt holes in the block (4) at least that's how my engine stand is set up.

x2,I use them daily and when you remove the bell from the block set it aside,"only" mount it to the block not the bell.the bell WILL crack and the motor will hit the floor.remember to mount to the block and make sure the bolts are long enough to go into the block not a couple threads that is the same kind holding my turbo ,motor in the air:


hope this helps,and grade 8 bolts are not "required" unless you are planning on spinning it over and over on the stand,but still not required.mine is held by whatever I could find long enough.I do use washers on the back of the bolts though.and if you are wondering,they all lean forward to a point like mine.
if you look you can see the "tilt"

[showbizkid]

yep, not a problem...