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hebron
05-29-2007, 09:54 AM
Hi

I am wondering if some of you can give me some direction with my Champion. I have totally rebuilt the 6 last summer and have about 1000 miles on it. This year, it has been terribly hard to start. The engine turns over freely and fast, so the problem is not in the starter or battery. When it is cold, I have to pump the pedal a lot for it to fire up. After I drive it for a while and then shut it off, like yesterday when we stopped for some ice cream, it was then very hard to get it running again. Pumping the pedal was required, but with caution as I did not want to flood it. Once it is running and warmed up, it is just fine. Purrs like a kitten. I am afraid to stop anywhere for fear that it will not start again.

Last summer I:
Rebuilt the entire motor.
Rebuilt the carb, starter, generator and installed new fuel pump.
New plugs, plug wires, points, cap and rotor.

Any ideas of what I might try or do? :(

Thanks.



Tim Porter
Hebron Illinois
1950 Champion 2dr

DEEPNHOCK
05-29-2007, 10:35 AM
Back to basics...
Check your fuel pump pressure and flow per the manual.
Visually check your accelerator pump for proper function.
Set your dwell (it does change over time)
Set your timing (a must after you set your dwell, and the dwell is always set first as it changes the timing.
Adjust your idle mixture screw to get the highest rpm and vacuum reading.
Adjust your idle to spec.

Also...
Don't be afraid to change your fuel filter.
With so much bad gas around, if there is water, or alcohol in the gas, it can end up coating your gas filter, causing the fuel pump to starve.
Also check for good fuel line flow from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. (Crud in the tank can cause problems, but that should have shown up in the first step).
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]

PS: I used to live in Hampshire and work in Huntley. Still have a couple of friends in Woodstock and Hebron....



quote:Originally posted by hebron

Hi

I am wondering if some of you can give me some direction with my Champion. I have totally rebuilt the 6 last summer and have about 1000 miles on it. This year, it has been terribly hard to start. The engine turns over freely and fast, so the problem is not in the starter or battery. When it is cold, I have to pump the pedal a lot for it to fire up. After I drive it for a while and then shut it off, like yesterday when we stopped for some ice cream, it was then very hard to get it running again. Pumping the pedal was required, but with caution as I did not want to flood it. Once it is running and warmed up, it is just fine. Purrs like a kitten. I am afraid to stop anywhere for fear that it will not start again.
Last summer I:
Rebuilt the entire motor.
Rebuilt the carb, starter, generator and installed new fuel pump.
New plugs, plug wires, points, cap and rotor.
Any ideas of what I might try or do? :(
Thanks.
Tim Porter


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Buddy1944
05-29-2007, 12:52 PM
All the checks described by "Deepnhock" are great, but most would have to be correct or near correct if the engine runs error free when it starts and is warmed up. If it will not start when it is hot the problem has to be (1) Compression... (2) Spark... (3) Fuel... If the fuel system works OK while it is running then it should be OK after it is shut off... If the spark is working when it is shut off and doesn't work when hot maybe there is a grounding problem. Maybe the dist. needs a better ground. I would say that there may be a compression problem, if the valves are a little tight and the valve stim is (maybe)elongated a little bit, maybe there would be a starting problem until there was a bunch of fuel to help with the starting.

The problem on my '54 170" was flooding, after it was hot it would not start until I pressed the pedel to the floor and even then it would run bad for maybe 5 - 10 seconds.

Just a thought...

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077

starlightchamp
05-29-2007, 03:19 PM
Take the air cleaner off and check the auto choke position with engine cold.
Is it nearly closed?
Should be. If not look at bi-metallic spring etc.
Then do all the above.
...Dick

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/125/368321841_7d3a05da00_t.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/367175252_40e3cec1d9_t.jpg

DEEPNHOCK
05-29-2007, 03:55 PM
I agree, but the problem is always going to have something to do with compression, spark (electrical), or fuel;).
My comment was to keep the diagnosis method very basic, which you have added to with good advice.
I have seen all sorts of wild things getting tossed out on forums that have people scratching their heads in bewilderment sometimes.
A Studebaker engine is a very basic machine, that has very basic rules of operation. My advice was just to take a deep breath and double check the basics. Setting the points should be a more than once a year occasion anyways, along with setting the timing and adjusting the carb.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by Buddy1944

All the checks described by "Deepnhock" are great, but most would have to be correct or near correct if the engine runs error free when it starts and is warmed up. If it will not start when it is hot the problem has to be (1) Compression... (2) Spark... (3) Fuel... If the fuel system works OK while it is running then it should be OK after it is shut off... If the spark is working when it is shut off and doesn't work when hot maybe there is a grounding problem. Maybe the dist. needs a better ground. I would say that there may be a compression problem, if the valves are a little tight and the valve stim is (maybe)elongated a little bit, maybe there would be a starting problem until there was a bunch of fuel to help with the starting.

The problem on my '54 170" was flooding, after it was hot it would not start until I pressed the pedel to the floor and even then it would run bad for maybe 5 - 10 seconds.

Just a thought...

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077

Tom B
05-29-2007, 09:41 PM
Stopped for Ice Cream......

Was it a HOT day?

Think of the possibility of vapor lock. I remember having lots of trouble starting after I'd stop for gas. It cranked for a long time before it would start.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

buddymander
05-29-2007, 09:54 PM
I wonder if your distributor shaft is worn. Check the dwell while cranking cold, running cold, running hot, and cranking hot. It will usually show up as incorrect dwell while cranking hot.

hebron
05-29-2007, 10:48 PM
Well, looks like I have my work cut out for me. I hope to have the time this weekend to begin working my way down this list. It's been about 25+ years since I had to mess around under a car hood, so I am a little rusty. I managed to keep several rust buckets running when I was a teenager, so some of this should start to come back to me.

Thanks for all your help.



Tim Porter
Hebron Illinois
1950 Champion 2dr