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View Full Version : How do I get this @$*% key out?



showbizkid
05-26-2007, 06:57 PM
I just took apart my front suspension, and I am having a hard time driving out the tapered key that pins the lower kingpin support to the lower outer pin. As you can see in the photo below, it's been center-punched to hold it in.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q26/clarknovak/Front%20Suspension/DSCN0867.jpg
This is the upper view (top of the kingpin support, facing up). The manual says to drive this up and out with a pin punch, but I am encountering two problems.

1) I can't keep the assembly from flipping over when I try to punch the pin. It wants to flip over.

2) Even when the assembly is stabilized from flipping, that damn key does not want to drive out.

I call upon your vast troves of experience :D to help me understand what to do here. All suggestions greatly appreciated!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

sbca96
05-26-2007, 07:28 PM
Where are we looking?

http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/diagrams/frntsusp.jpg

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

showbizkid
05-26-2007, 07:56 PM
We are looking at a top view of part 1204-64, the lower kinpin support. P/N 1204-70 is the key in question, and is the bit with the three punches in the picture.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

sbca96
05-26-2007, 10:05 PM
OK, I thought it was the top one![:I]

Hopefully someone will post a solution - I havent taken one apart that
far yet, just messed with the top outer and replaced the inner bushings
on both control arms.;)

Tom

Alan
05-26-2007, 10:36 PM
You should have pushed that pin out with the weight of the car before you started to take it apart. Since you have it partially disassembled, take a spreader and remove the whole piece. Take it and use an old lifter set on your heavy, at least 1" thick block of your 20 ton min. hydraulic press and push it out. I have even had to use heat along with a 20 ton press to get out the stubborn ones.

showbizkid
05-27-2007, 10:00 PM
Thanks, Alan. But how do I spread the A-arms without distorting them?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

GTtim
05-27-2007, 10:53 PM
I took the control arm and laid it on the floor, put a small block under the steering knuckle support and drove it out with a punch. You know that it needs to go out toward the upper control arm, right?

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

showbizkid
05-28-2007, 12:02 AM
Yes, I knew the direction. I guess the key is that small block; I'll have to fabricate something the proper height. Was yours staked like mine is?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

Alan
05-28-2007, 01:35 AM
They are all staked simmilar to that one. Use a snap gauge or an inside mike before you spread it. Chuck Collins has the spreader for $30. I can tell you from experance that some of those are in there so good you will think it will never come out.

N8N
05-28-2007, 07:17 AM
you're talking about 1204-70, right? only way I've found to get that out is with a RBFH (Really Big...) and a helper (wearing gloves) to hold the assembly stable on a steel plate or anvil. I think that the new trunnions come with a new pin, so don't feel bad about messing it up.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

DEEPNHOCK
05-28-2007, 07:38 AM
Ok...
Help me out so I can understand something here...
Is the part (illust# 1204-64 a/o 1204-68) morked up?
(threads? Spindle hole? A arm hole?)
If not... Then why are you taking it out?
Just clean it, and prep it even if it is trapped in the lower a-arm and reassemble it.
Just curious is all...
Jeff[8D]

N8N
05-28-2007, 07:45 AM
I was just ASSuming that the trunnion needed to be replaced. I agree with Jeff, if the trunnion is OK just leave it. In my car, unfortunately, everything was locked up to the point where the key had sheared rather than the trunnion rotating in its bushings as intended :(

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

showbizkid
05-28-2007, 11:01 AM
What happened is that water somehow got into one of the lower outer pin bushings. There was no lube (well, very little OLD chassis lube) inside, so the bushing and the pin rusted and seized together. If you look at that top picture, you can see the rusty threads of the pin end. That's why I want to get the key out; so I can put in a new lower pin.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

gordr
05-28-2007, 12:04 PM
Clark, you should be able to winkle that trunnion out of there by forcing it to one side, and using a pry bar to spread the end of the A-arm slightly. I've done it before. There's quite a bit of "spring" to the A-arm end.

Once you get the trunnion out, use a hammer and a big punch to knock out that taper pin, or take it to a machine shop, and have them press it out. Don't be too quick to condemn the trunnion; wire brush off the rust, and try the caps on it once it's out. Screw the caps on as far as the seal rings, and see if you can rock them or move them side to side. If the only movement can be accounted for by the normal slack in the threads, they are OK to use. Badly worn ones will typically have the round pin reduced to an oval, or will have the threads skinned off one side.

Remember, you have to use a spreader on the A-arm end to reinstall the trunnion caps, whether new or used.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

GTtim
05-28-2007, 09:51 PM
Mine wasn't staked like your's, but I doubt that that is contributing much to your problem. I'd take the seals off, heat it up with a torch and douse it with PB Blaster. Maybe do that a couple of times and then hit it with a stout punch with a flat end and big hammer and hope for the best.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk