has anyone installed a slick street stuff front suspension. I could use some advice on any problems with this set up
thank you very much....joe dipipi@msn.com (53 stude mod)
thank you very much....joe dipipi@msn.com (53 stude mod)
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I am wondering the same thing............
Is the Slick Street Stuff conversion kit the 'cat's meow' or would I be better off staying with an OEM Stude suspension (which would still need to be rebuilt although in all fairness I'm an alignment/suspension tech by trade) but with the Turner disc brake kit under a 1962-66 Y body?
I'm still weighing my options here.--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?" -
I'm rebuilding the stock setup with Turner brakes. Don't know much about the SSS conversion, have heard it's not for the faint-hearted. A suspension tech should have no trouble, but not for the shade tree mechanic.
Would like to hear from an owner/installer to hear their take, as I got my info 2nd (3rd?) hand.Comment
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I can't find the thread, but Pat Drnec tried this suspension and to say he was underwhelmed is an understatement.Originally posted by 53 stude mod View PostPaul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
'64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engineComment
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Anything specific or that the OEM Stude front end was just as good in the final analysis?Originally posted by 53k View Post--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"Comment
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Long debated using it too and decided not to....read up on rack and pinion installs on Studes using the search function...I see no way of this set-up addressing bump-steer with the location of where the rack is installed and the width of the rack itself. The response I got to my questions at the booth with brochures at the Spokane meet a few years back gave me negative vibes....stock front end for me with Turner Brakes. Just my thoughts...Junior.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.Comment
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Fair and honest answer. 'Vibes'; both good or bad, have saved me on many an occasion when I listen to them.Originally posted by junior View Post
Too: the SSS kit was specifically designed for the C/K Studes and I'm wanting a Y body (long WB 4 door sedan).--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"Comment
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slik street stuff steering
I have already installed the slik street system and have a few problems. I would like to speak to someone else who has done it so that i might be able to compare notes. I have no bump steer but it does steer hard. i will post a comlete discription of the install on this tread when i have a little more time to dicribe it in detail. any hel would be appreciated..
thank you very much joedipipi@msn.com (53 stude mod)....Comment
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A "search" should bring up a bunch of info...mostly "not positive".
While I don't know if there's been any design changes since the buyout, the original design had....design problems.
The two biggest that I recall -
1. The rack mount was pretty wimpy and subject to flex.
2. The location of the upper "A" arm mount to the frame is WAY too high. This throws the tires into all kinds of strange (+ and - camber) motions when cornering on "non-smooth" road surfaces. And when was the last time you were on a....smooth road..?
I think the basic idea is a good one, this design doesn't cut it for me. And the main problem with any design that "doesn't" cut into the frame to properly locate the upper control arm, will also not be correct.
It's all simple geometry.
Mike
P.s. - Question to 53 stude, how do you know you don't have any bump steer ?
Have you layed out all of the geometry as bolted to the Stude chassis ?Last edited by Mike Van Veghten; 06-15-2011, 05:35 AM.Comment
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If you're doing this kind of conversion there's no reason not to opt for a powered unit, power R+P systems typically have a decent amount of feel left in them.Originally posted by 53 stude mod View Post
Here's an example from Bob's site and the geometry looks pretty good. I'm sure not everyone has the torch skills to make this happen, but surely there must be a power R+P you can buy off the shelf.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/.../53Krandp.html
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David -
While you have the cleanest R&P swap I've seen...I'd bet if you really "measured" all of the suspension pieces and their pivot points, I'd be willing to bet you do have a measurable amount of bump steer.
This is because of the arm mounting points on the rack.
Unless all of your pictures have some sort of distortion in them, the "downward" angle of the arms now "swing" as the wheels are turned. This will change the radui of each wheel and when a "bump" is induced into the geometry, each wheel will move differently. This is bump steer...!
And for what it's worth, it may be close to what the original Stude suspension has.
I'd really be interested in the actual numbers you have there.
A quick diagram with the pivot values or even just a "line" thru the pivots would tell the tale.
MikeComment
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It's not my car, this was just swap information from Bob's Avanti site.Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
Click the link and you'll see all the details. There may in fact be a bit of bump steer, but if the owner can't feel it....Comment
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This installation is one of the best I've seen and it is closer to matching the Stude tie rod length and angles than most. However, owners who have put a lot of time and money into a R&P modification are not the most impartial of witnesses.There may in fact be a bit of bump steer, but if the owner can't feel it....
One Avanti owner I knew did a different type conversion using a conventional GM rack and the result had terrible bump steer, but he refused to admit it. Only after he wore out a pair of new Michelins did he work to figure out the problem and put spacers to drop the outer tie rod ends. That's not a solution I could live with, but it got the bump steer within reasonable limits.
jack vinesPackardV8Comment
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I am fairly new to SDC and appreciate the comments on this thread regarding steering improvement options. I have a 1954 Commander and would like to know what are considered the best ways to improve upon the original steering and front suspension for my car or is the original as good as a R&P or other after market swap? My car has a '64 289 full flow engine and '64 automatic with the original power steering. I recently purchased the car before the restoration was complete and it needs to be wired before I can start and drive it. I want it to be safe and secure at 80 mph cruising so I am very interested in what others have experienced. I have never driven a car with this type of front end so any and all comments and comparisons would be appreciated.Comment
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FWIW, I've only been up to 150 MPH with the Studebaker front suspension, so I can guarantee it to that speed. Beyond that, you'd have to ask Jim Lange. He's been to 230 MPH, but he'd have to tell you how safe he felt.I want it to be safe and secure at 80 mph cruising so I am very interested in what others have experienced.
jack vinesPackardV8Comment
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